Busted T47 seat belt bolts....

[AK49BWL]

How do I get the bolts out of the front seat belt retractors when the T47 bit rounds off the teeth in the bolt head? To clarify, my bit is fine, the bolt is fxxked. And it did not move at all.

I absolutely have to replace my driver side seat belt before I end up no longer having a lap belt due to fraying. And now I can't even get a bit to grip it, much less spin it out so I can remove the retractor mech. Every single other one came out fine, easily even, so this annoys me greatly.

 

[df2x4]

Got a pic? Is there room to get a Dremel or something similar in there to cut a slot in the bolt head?

 

[AK49BWL]

Got a pic? Is there room to get a Dremel or something similar in there to cut a slot in the bolt head?

Not without destroying the plastic bezel that's riveted to the back side of the metal. Unless... Hmm, I CAN swivel the retractor body so I could drill out the rivets there and get the bezel out of the way.

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[df2x4]

I see what you mean, that is pretty tight. I've never used extractors (EZ-Out) or a left handed dill bit but it seems like one of those might be something to consider here.

 

[east302]

I’d have sworn that mine were T50, but can you get to them from underneath? Meaning, does the bolt penetrate through the floor so you can get a grip on it there and back them out?

If nothing else, maybe hammer a larger torx bit into it and see if it’ll hold long enough to back it out enough.

Edit: the bezel is what is fraying the belt. I have one that’s doing that as well.


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[AK49BWL]

I’d have sworn that mine were T50

They're technically T47. T50 fits, but some you have to force them in - my passenger side was like that. After I stripped out the head on the driver side with the T47, I proceeded with the T50 and stripped the crap out of it even worse lol.

, but can you get to them from underneath? Meaning, does the bolt penetrate through the floor so you can get a grip on it there and back them out?

That's going to be my next attempt as soon as I procure some vise grips... Yes they go through. Not expecting much tho.

If nothing else, maybe hammer a larger torx bit into it and see if it’ll hold long enough to back it out enough.

That's what I tried with the T50. That didn't go well lol.

Edit: the bezel is what is fraying the belt. I have one that’s doing that as well.

I know I bet they all do it over time... Wondering how best to keep it from fraying the belt over time.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

They're technically T47. T50 fits, but some you have to force them in - my passenger side was like that. After I stripped out the head on the driver side with the T47, I proceeded with the T50 and stripped the crap out of it even worse lol.

That's going to be my next attempt as soon as I procure some vise grips... Yes they go through. Not expecting much tho.

That's what I tried with the T50. That didn't go well lol.


I know I bet they all do it over time... Wondering how best to keep it from fraying the belt over time.

Maybe if you could clean up the edges where the belt goes through with an Xacto knife ( deburring the slots)? Obviously being careful around the seat belt, and don't cut yourself either! A sharp Xacto blade will F you up and you won't feel it, won't notice at all till you see the blood! I have more scars on my hands from building model cars than from working on real cars LOL.

 

[AK49BWL]

Maybe if you could clean up the edges where the belt goes through with an Xacto knife ( deburring the slots)? Obviously being careful around the seat belt, and don't cut yourself either! A sharp Xacto blade will F you up and you won't feel it, won't notice at all till you see the blood! I have more scars on my hands from building model cars than from working on real cars LOL.

Lol I'm not even going to get into my experiences with that...

 

[Frank Enstein]

Lol I'm not even going to get into my experiences with that...

Ditto!

Superglue does wonders to stop blood leaks.

 

[Frank Enstein]

Get a good sized nut like 17mm and weld it to the top of the bolt through the center with a MIG or stick if you are better than me at stick welding (not really a high bar there !) and hurry and get it broke loose then douse it with water as soon as it turns once. Prep the nut by soaking in muriatic acid outside until it stops bubbling and rinse with water after. The zinc coating is toxic when heated by welding and is no joke.


A medium sized box of foul language (insulting questionable parentage and/or alluding to possible work in the seamier red light trades) will also be a big help