Brake warning light on, but pedal feels good

[Dariusz Salomon]

See pic below which is from the original e-bay listing DS and you'll see what HWB is saying. You'll also see where my LPG tank is. Takes up space and prevents the rearmost seat being removed as there's no space to rotate it to release it.

If you have a toroidal LPG tank (probable) you may have to change the multivalve to reorientate to other than horizontal. The valves aren't that costly but the tank needs to be empty to make the change. There's a brilliantly helpful LPG forum in the UK - if you want a link, just holler.

You have the gasoline tank I want so I can fit a toroidal where my big gasoline tank is. Even it is probably much bigger than I need. Thought about ditching the gasoline system altogether but apart from deciding I want it kept as back up, i've been starting from cold on LPG lately and it takes a bit of cranking to prime the system. I'm still paranoid as hell about a weak mixture backfire. If yours has a mixer system you should be to. Mine blew the timing cover apart....

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Yup-I found the pics of the 2 door and diagram too of what parts have been used to secure it in place. Also I know where you coming from with trying to get rid of this tank from the inside-it compromises you loading ability and is a bit silly-you have biggest truck and can't load a waredrobe on it if you need to. You just need small 20 litres tank really for petrol but I would not delete the petrol system-it may come handy in case your lpg malfunctions. Plus I'm not sure about starting on lpg at all times-lpg system takes beating-so defo go with big lpg tank small petrol behind-I think burbs have more tgan enough space undernath to fit one.

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

Cool! Nice Tahoes! I need to do some light modification. The stock stuff is adequate but could use improvement. We don't do that much rural driving at night, but even in Houston there's plenty of places where the streets are not lit that well.

I literally looked on you tube to see how to wire it-it's relatively easy to do. 400 has natural ducts to run the wires to the roof too. With 2 sets of lights it costed me maybe about 100£ to do and majority of the cost were the dutch connectors and wire-it takes a LOT of wires due to the size. I didn't drill a single hole in firewall or inner fenders. So if I want to get rid of the system the truck is intact. I'll send some pivs in a minute

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

That's how to modify 9006 to 9012.9012 has lot more lumens than 9006. Also use 9012 with cap at the top-you can get those no problem. Length of the bulb us the same so no change in light pattern-nobody flaahed me since the mod.

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[Pinger]

Yes that tank is right up behind the 3rd seat ,isn't it?!The picture from this perspective gives an idea of how big a Burb actually is! I still have the 3rd seat for mine, but it came out soon after we got the truck since it's used for hauling. At least that was the original plan.....then our other, newer vehicles laid down on me, and the ol' Burb keeps a going.....

Absolutely huge!
I had a visitor a while back at the height of lockdown and rather than risk going into the house we had a socially distanced (2m/6ft) chat in the Burb, me sat in the front, them in the rearmost seat!

Only other way to get the 3rd seat out is to fold the 2nd row seat down and slide it out that way. But if you can't get to the handle to release the latches and fold the 3rd seat, then pull it up and back a little to get it out of the floor sockets, I guess it's a moot point. When you can get it out though, that SOB is heavy! Ask me how I know! I think there's a lever on one side of the seat to fold it down though. If so, that would give a little more space.

Cheers - worth knowing.
I'd done the fold thing but thought I was stuffed for removal - maybe not!
I can fold forward the middle seats and with the bridging boards I have a huge space there, the size of the side door being the limit as to what can fit. Space either side of the LPG tank then. Still, it'd be good to have it slung under the floor and have that one big area available - that 'to-do' list again!

 

[Pinger]

That's how to modify 9006 to 9012.9012 has lot more lumens than 9006. Also use 9012 with cap at the top-you can get those no problem. Length of the bulb us the same so no change in light pattern-nobody flaahed me since the mod.

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Thanks DS - I've only driven the once in the dark and the dipped beams were a bit feeble. Normally on UK/Euro cars I change main beam H1 bulbs to 100W and that's a big improvement. Going to have to get my head around USA bulbs being different to what I'm used to. Closer to winter I'll be looking at improvements.
Corner flasher postponed today - busy with prep for a work run tomorrow. That will be a 100+ miles in the hills of Royal Deeside. Should be good!

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

And here is how I run the wires.

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[Dariusz Salomon]

Thanks DS - I've only driven the once in the dark and the dipped beams were a bit feeble. Normally on UK/Euro cars I change main beam H1 bulbs to 100W and that's a big improvement. Going to have to get my head around USA bulbs being different to what I'm used to. Closer to winter I'll be looking at improvements.
Corner flasher postponed today - busy with prep for a work run tomorrow. That will be a 100+ miles in the hills of Royal Deeside. Should be good!

Good luck on your trip. And as to lights-9006 to 9012 is easiest and cheapest thing you can do quickly. I used these-no point in forking out 30 or more pounds on a set as longivity should be similar and I can have 3 sets of these for the set of 1 philips-on some occasion even more.

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[Trlrider]

Hi all, need some help. 99 C1500 Suburban, 5.7 vortec, all stock. Drove it 150 miles Saturday, no issue. It sat all day Sunday. Drove it today, several places, no issue. Came home for lunch, went to go back to work, started up fine as usual, but the brake warning light is on. Truck stops fine, pedal feels normal. What should I look at for this? I believe the fluid levels are okay. Did front pads 3 weeks ago, no issue from that. Thanks in advance for any assistance!

To the original topic of the Post!
Could not see where the dash brake light issue was corrected as the thread morphed into a headlight discussion.
I have repaired at least a dozen '98 - '2010's (cars and trucks) with this problem. It is a simple fix if you are handy with a soldering iron and their are several video's online.
The ABS Controllers on many GM, Dodge and Ford trucks have solder joint failures at the relays in the controller.
On GM most the top can be gently removed, solder joints re-flowed, reseal the lid and bolt it back on. The entire ABS module does not need to be removed, just the controller.
I don't remember the ABS Code, but it is very common.

If you end up completely replacing the controller, it will need to be programmed to the vehicle. But in all 5 cases

 

[Pinger]

Yup-I found the pics of the 2 door and diagram too of what parts have been used to secure it in place. Also I know where you coming from with trying to get rid of this tank from the inside-it compromises you loading ability and is a bit silly-you have biggest truck and can't load a waredrobe on it if you need to. You just need small 20 litres tank really for petrol but I would not delete the petrol system-it may come handy in case your lpg malfunctions. Plus I'm not sure about starting on lpg at all times-lpg system takes beating-so defo go with big lpg tank small petrol behind-I think burbs have more tgan enough space undernath to fit one.

Agree totally - except my LPG being a mixer system, if well set up, the actuator doesn't necessarily have too much to do and a manual 'power valve' set at the same opening as the default setting for the actuator and the LPG solenoids 'jumped' directly from the battery in the event of ECU failure would get me home providing I pulled the gasoline pump relay. I'll be looking into the 'power valve' part of it in due course.
For certain, I'm going back to starting on gasoline and the back up in case I run out of LPG - well it'd be stupid to lose that. By what I've heard of GMT400 gasoline pumps though (and especially as they are impossible to reach on a Burb without dropping the tank) I reckon the LPG system can be the more trustworthy.
Hardest part of installing another (different) gasoline tank will be gauge and pump compatibility and connecting it to the filler. I've thought about swapping gauges so I can read the LPG tank from the GM gauge - and vice-versa but not done anything about it yet. More 'to-do'. I'll need the full cargo capacity for the next house move but that's still some way off.

 

[Pinger]

I did get a chance to do some checking re lights and flashers. Spare headlight bulbs came with my Burb and they are as specified in the handbook - 9005 (51W) and 9006 (60W). How can a 9012 be so much brighter if it's only 55W? Are 100W versions of 9005 available?

Also, had a look at the 'corner' flashers. Bulb missing and a (blue) wire cut. When I slot in a 5W (wedge - 501) bulb and push the blue wire into the other bulb's connector (where its blue wire enters) it flashes and the flash rate remains constant (both flashing in unison). And, it's visible from the front. Why this is deleted in the UK is a mystery. There's also a cut (brown) wire coming from the forward facing bulb mount. That bulb is dual filament with only one utilised (the higher Wattage one by the looks.
Apart from allowing me to have corner flashers, this also tells me additional trailer flasher bulbs aren't going to upset the system - result!

And found the release handle for the rearmost seat. Didn't trouble my self removing it but just by slightly lifting I could tell HWB aint lying about its weight. Brunel would be proud of its construction!

Learned shed loads about my truck today - cheers HWB and DS.