Brake warning light on, but pedal feels good

[HotWheelsBurban]

Possibly changed in the UK as the flash rate would exceed the permitted value when counted together.
At the rear, the requirement I think is for the flashers to be separate from the tail/stop lamps - hence redeploying reversing lights as flashers.

It would make more sense (in my mind) to have the corner flashers as functional but as per DS's comments - doesn't seem viable.

Have you got any further with your ABS light issue? - the subject of this thread!

Not yet. Have to find a parts store that has a different scanner than the one that o'Reilly has. They are the most prevalent chain of auto parts stores in this area. Originally were a local chain that got bought out by a national one. If I take it apart to clean the sensor package on the left side as Dariusz suggested, I may as well replace it. It's on the disc brake backing plate behind the rotor, so takes a bit to get to it. But I am still aware of the issue, whatever is actually causing the problem, and want to find out what it is and rectify it.
If I get a chance soon I'll take a picture of the trailer light harness and post it. There's a company called Hopkins that makes adapters for all types of harnesses, and they make one that basically makes a T into the harness to add a 4 prong connector into it. That's the standard one that U haul uses, and many smaller trailers use.

 

[Pinger]

I forgot - I meant to mention this earlier.
The reason you have a light (assuming it is a faulty sensor or its wiring) is that on self-check at start up the resistance the brake/ABS ECU is measuring is out of bounds on one (the faulty one). If you can break into the connector you should be able to (with a multi meter) measure the resistances of all four individually. The one that differs will be the bad one. You can possibly whittle this down by using the recently replaced front one as the reference resistance. You don't need to know the values - only identify the one that is different from the others. Bear in mind, a chaffed wire grounding or a broken wire will give the same problem even when its sensor is good.

Edit PS.
Do you have the GM manuals?
Vol #2. Section #8, page 163 covers ABS and appears to have the wiring diagrams. If you don't have it (them) let me know and we'll figure a way of getting them to you. As files are too big to add to a post.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

I forgot - I meant to mention this earlier.
The reason you have a light (assuming it is a faulty sensor or its wiring) is that on self-check at start up the resistance the brake/ABS ECU is measuring is out of bounds on one (the faulty one). If you can break into the connector you should be able to (with a multi meter) measure the resistances of all four individually. The one that differs will be the bad one. You can possibly whittle this down by using the recently replaced front one as the reference resistance. You don't need to know the values - only identify the one that is different from the others. Bear in mind, a chaffed wire grounding or a broken wire will give the same problem even when its sensor is good.

Edit PS.
Do you have the GM manuals?
Vol #2. Section #8, page 163 covers ABS and appears to have the wiring diagrams. If you don't have it (them) let me know and we'll figure a way of getting them to you. As files are too big to add to a post.

Yes I have the first 3 volumes. The 4th one is mainly the body and interior, and that's the one Dad had in his room in the apartment that burned. So at some point I need to get a replacement. This weekend I will be looking over the truck at several things. I still have a squeak in the back, I'm thinking it might be the sway bar bushings. Sure they're original....
Previous owner didn't do or have a lot done to this truck. So part of my task is making up for lost time. Then again with 187,000 on the clock there's things that need doing anyway. Thanks again!

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

Yes I have the first 3 volumes. The 4th one is mainly the body and interior, and that's the one Dad had in his room in the apartment that burned. So at some point I need to get a replacement. This weekend I will be looking over the truck at several things. I still have a squeak in the back, I'm thinking it might be the sway bar bushings. Sure they're original....
Previous owner didn't do or have a lot done to this truck. So part of my task is making up for lost time. Then again with 187,000 on the clock there's things that need doing anyway. Thanks again!

I'm in the same boat-just done underseal as it looks like nobody touched it since new. Painful process and I was lucky to have a ramp as my ffriend works in the garage and I was allowed to use their ramp. And generaly I replace what's pops up. Had to overhaul rear brakes-cylinders,pipes,shoes(bw I had squeeke sound and took me ages ro find wgat it was-repkaced u joints as I thought it was them but turned up to be shoes-rivets were rubbing against the drum after chanks of the shoe broke off),seals on both axles,transfer case(all runnin to shafts),wheels and tires.
BTW I have set of american racing 20" alloys-9 inch wide-6×139.7 with 78.1 cb-so pretty specific to our puppies. I'm in UK tho-but maybe somebody likes them?

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[Dariusz Salomon]

No problem, guys, it's interesting to see the different issues y'all have with Yank trucks in the UK. The upper corner marker " lights" are just reflectors from the factory. The lower ones actually are lights; they use a #194 bulb which isn't very big. In normal operation these blink alternating with the big light under the headlight, for whichever direction the turn signals are on. This seems to be something that was changed on your trucks, I know the vehicle lighting codes and regulations are different from the US ones. There are mods that many of our stateside members have done to their trucks that make the upper corner markers into functional lights. But they require having extra lenses to modify, so probably not something easily done on your side of the pond. The rapid flash as far as I know is GM's way of telling you there's a bulb out.....

Conversion of the corner lights is doable it's just I'm not interested in doing them at all. If it wasn't for our regulations I'd run US lights(like I did on 74 Montego I used to have-at least some of them I did) but they won't have it-or some won't-if it was an older car that doesn't require MOT I could get away with it but these are still young lol.

 

[Pinger]

Yes I have the first 3 volumes. The 4th one is mainly the body and interior, and that's the one Dad had in his room in the apartment that burned. So at some point I need to get a replacement. !

When you're ready for it, PM me an e-mail address I can send it to and it's done. The first three as well if you want so you can have them all in digital format.

 

[Pinger]

I'm in the same boat-just done underseal

You've been tarring your boat too!
I did mine - two and a half 2.5l tins of Waxoyl. A pig of a job - no ramp. At least mine had already seen some so worth keeping it fresh.

.

BTW I have set of american racing 20" alloys-9 inch wide-6×139.7 with 78.1 cb-so pretty specific to our puppies. I'm in UK tho-but maybe somebody likes them?

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Nope, not tempting me there! I'm sticking with the tall tyres (on 17'' rims) because of the state of our roads.
Mine are 8 lugs anyway so wouldn't fit.

 

[Pinger]

Conversion of the corner lights is doable it's just .

I am tempted. Just because I reckon it would look so good. Going to have a look at that tomorrow. Not least as I found a box of bulbs inside the truck (guessing from when it was in Europe) and maybe the bulbs I need are there.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

There's threads on here on the 4 corner mod, I think is what it's under. Doesn't look too difficult if one has epoxy, extra lenses to cut up, and some time. I still haven't been to the pick a part yet, when I have time it's raining. They're a chain of self service what y'all call breaker's yards,( from the ship building terminology I suppose). A fun place to go if it's not too hot and you have money and time! And if you want to see how something comes apart, best to do it on a truck that's not yours first! Thanks for the service manual, I'll get you that email soon.

 

[Pinger]

There's threads on here on the 4 corner mod, I think is what it's under. Doesn't look too difficult if one has epoxy, extra lenses to cut up, and some time. I still haven't been to the pick a part yet, when I have time it's raining. They're a chain of self service what y'all call breaker's yards,( from the ship building terminology I suppose). A fun place to go if it's not too hot and you have money and time! And if you want to see how something comes apart, best to do it on a truck that's not yours first! Thanks for the service manual, I'll get you that email soon.

It's not even the 4 corner mod I'm after - just reinstating the original lower corner ones and deleting the bulbs in the forward facing ones (to preserve the flasher rate). If the bulbs are the same or the same Wattage - should be possible - and look a lot better. Will have to check that they're visible from the front though - maybe why they're done the way they are here.
PM me an e-mail address as soon as you're ready - doesn't have to be yours - any will do.

There's a breakers yard near here - I think it's probably closed just now and I will never ever find a GMT400 in it though there's loads of RHD Jeep Cherokees - that's in a lovely tranquil part of rural Scotland (what the tourists come for). It's my museum! Pure therapy wandering about the place. Going to pay a visit at some point as they often break LPG Range Rovers and the big toroidal tanks are for sale. Thinking one of them where my gasoline tank is and a smaller gasoline tank somewhere under the floor is the way to go. The cylindrical LPG tank I have is behind the rearmost seat and takes up boot (trunk?) space and won't fit underneath. No rush - it's on a lengthy 'to do' list. That's the thing with these trucks - they're so 'hands-on' they just beg to be tweaked to taste!