Brake lines

[Caman96]

Take a look at Rock Auto for pre-bent SS kits. I am replacing the flex lines with braided no-flex lines during a hydroboost swap and when I removed the rear flex line the tubing twisted off with the flare nut on the drivers side axle and the main feed line. Picked up a Dorman kit from Rock Auto for $140 to the door. I haven't installed it yet since it just happened last weekend and the kit came yesterday but I did inspect and test fit and the kit is complete and accurate to the truck. I'm only going to replace the lines under the bed because they're the ones that see road spray (also two of the four pieces are presently busted which is why I'm doing it at all). The remainder of the kit I'll keep for as needed repairs going forward. From what I've read on sealing you just need to put the nuts through a few tightening/loosening cycles to get a good seal on SST.

1998 Z71 5.7L.

I bought the complete SS Dorman kit off Amazon Warehouse for like $25.00. I’ve installed all the rear lines so far, all perfect fit and zero install issues.
I agree on Inline Tube post. Would’ve gone with them had I not scored my kit.

 

[99Yak]

Fine Lines aka SS Tubes, Wadsworth, Ohio.

 

[DixieWASP]

I had the exact same "busted brake line ride home" you described. Ordered a set of pre-bent lines from Inline Tube. I've used them previously and have always been very happy with them. I picked mild in this case because I figured it would be an easier install. (I don't know why...I've never had a problem with stainless.) As it turned out, they unexpectedly sent me stainless, and I just went with it. The install was no problem, as usual. I tightened them well first go-round, and had zero leaks.

The one thing that was slightly annoying is the front-most front-to-rear line was not coiled like factory. I held them to their "identical to factory" claim, and they ended up bending me a new one for free, which was perfect like the rest. Standup company, and I would definitely recommend stainless. I will probably get new fuel lines from them eventually, because the only thing scarier than crusty brake lines is...crusty fuel lines.

I am glad to hear you had a positive experience with Inline Tube; my two experiences with them have been disappointing! It is great that you made them replace the part that was not factory correct.

I would like to find an alternative company to do business with in the future since I have had two bad experiences with their company.

 

[Intragration]

What kind of problems did you have with them? Curious for future reference. Speaking just from my experience, I've gotten 5 sets of lines from Inline Tube, starting around 2007 and as recently as 2022. Can't remember the exact breakdown...I think one full set for a restoration project, three complete brake line sets, and one complete fuel line set. That's something like 38 individual lines. The single problem I had was the non-coiled line for the Suburban, which was probably accurate in some applications and would have likely worked, but they replaced it with an identical match because I asked for it. The remainder of the lines -- there's no "fun" line replacement project, and I'm not super easily impressed -- but it's hard for me to imagine a "squishy" product like brake/fuel lines that could have been made better or more accurately. Just my opinion.

 

[Boots97]

Up here in New Yuck, nicopp ends up looking terrible after a couple of salty winters.

My vote is prebent & flared stainless. Never worried about kinking, rusting, or blowouts in my plow truck once I upgrade.

LMC truck has full kits for just a couple hundred bucks with shipping. More expensive than bulk line, but no wasting time to flare or bend. Also, it looks damn professional; straight lines, evenly curved bends, they fit into the OE line clamps...

Late to the party, but that's the whole point of NiCopp. NiCopp will turn green from oxidation, but never rusts through. Yes, it doesn't look pretty, but that's not the point of it. I know that my NiCopp lines were all bent by hand and it looks like a backwoods hick bent them (aka me) but it works and that's what matters at the end of the day. It's not cheap, but it's SO easy to work with and as long as you do it right, you should only have to do it one time.

 

[Boots97]

I had substantial trouble flaring NiCopp in 3/16 size--the only size I've worked with.

Other folks seem to have no trouble with NiCopp; and I can flare double-wall seamless steel tubing with little trouble.

I never did figure out what I was doing wrong. I also haven't been trying to gain experience with it, although I should.

Nickle-Copper brake tubing (Making flares)

Finally got back to the rear brake job on my '97 K2500. I've had the truck almost five years, but only about a thousand miles in that time. Truck is full of neglect. I'm dealing with each issue, but not rapidly. I figured the shoes would be totaled; right on the rivets. Figured the drums...

www.gmt400.com

I've never worked with stainless brake tubing. I've heard it's tough to get the flares to seal--the material is hard and doesn't conform well. Some folks have recommended specialized copper flared sealing washers for use with stainless tubing flares.

3/16 is definitely harder than 1/4. The big thing that I've learned with flaring and anything that requires screw on tools (i.e. ball joint press) is to be slow and patient. You can't rush flaring bc that's where you make or break a line. I recommend the Yellow Jacket 60440 flaring tool. It's originally meant for HVAC lines, but works GREAT on brake lines and is FAR better than the flaring tools that you can rent at an auto parts store.

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I can send more pictures of it in action if you want.

What I recommend is to cut small pieces of NiCopp about 2-3 inches ling and flare both sides. You don't need to add a fitting to it bc it's just practice and not necessary. I did this a couple times myself and it cut down on a lot of flaring mistakes that I've made in the past.

 

[Schurkey]

I'm not using "rental tools". I'm using a Mastercool hydraulic unit.

Had great results with normal steel tubing, but couldn't get the NiCopp to flare decently.

I used to use genuine Imperial Eastman flaring/swaging tools, but they don't get out of the tool box since I bought the Mastercool system.

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Similar to my Mastercool set, but a newer version:
www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-72485-PRC-Universal-Hydraulic-Transmission/dp/B06WD86RLH/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1L8AAUKANDDR9

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I should perhaps try the Eastman set on the NiCopp and see what happens.

Thanks anyway.

 

[Pinger]

I had substantial trouble flaring NiCopp in 3/16 size--the only size I've worked with.

Was it actually NiCopp? The Ni Copp I ordered from Amazon is in reality copper plated steel - a magnet loves it.
What pissed me off was that I could have bought pipe correctly advertised as copper plated steel for half the price of Amazon's. I only went for the supposed NiCopp as I feared my flaring tool mightn't cope with steel - not so. In 1/4'' though so possibly easier than 3/16''.

 

[Schurkey]

Was it actually NiCopp?

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What pissed me off was that I could have bought pipe

Not pipe. Tubing.

 

[Pinger]

Not pipe. Tubing.

A lesser error than getting the material wrong. Amazon describes its offering as 'copper nickel' but is copper coated steel - and described by Amazon as 'pipe'.

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