Bowtie Brody's Namesake 96 454

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BNielsen

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Welp. A/C works now, and it blows nice and cold. I guess some of the connections were just a little old and my wiggling and adjusting must've created enough contact that everything is back to normal; I do plan on replacing the connector at the compressor, it's got a crack in it and the wires are a little frayed, and I'm going to clean and grease the pins on the pressure switches.

I'm also beginning to think my fuel pump is on it's way out, it's going back and forth between quiet and loud enough I can hear it over the truck idling. I've also got a couple of gremlins to chase down with my mirrors again, I need to suck it up and solder everything proper, or relocate and tap into wires under the dash.
 

BNielsen

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Has it become more hard starting than normal?

After letting it sit overnight or sometimes even a few hours I'll go to crank it up and it'll crank for a few seconds and then spit and sputter to life.
And the thing is it's intermittent; somedays it fires right off no problem and I don't have any problems all day, others it's the spitting and sputtering.

Start checking electrical you think? I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is the original unit, so there might not be another solution.
 

JSlezak83

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Squirrel away some money for a fuel pump! Mine gave zero indication of failure, other than noise level. Started and ran fine, even put out 55-58psi under load. It just gave up the ghost driving through town one day, and that was it.

I’m just happy it was in town, and not out on the highway with the camper in tow.
 

Mangonesailor

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After letting it sit overnight or sometimes even a few hours I'll go to crank it up and it'll crank for a few seconds and then spit and sputter to life.
And the thing is it's intermittent; somedays it fires right off no problem and I don't have any problems all day, others it's the spitting and sputtering.

Start checking electrical you think? I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is the original unit, so there might not be another solution.
Some of that start-up stuff could be the cranking VE table. If it were me I'd let it go until you or we can do actual tuning to it with a wideband or you verify with a fuel pressure gauge what is happening. Once the baseline VE table is done (or at least adjusted some) the cranking VE table can be regenerated and hopefully solve this issue.
 

BNielsen

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Some of that start-up stuff could be the cranking VE table. If it were me I'd let it go until you or we can do actual tuning to it with a wideband or you verify with a fuel pressure gauge what is happening. Once the baseline VE table is done (or at least adjusted some) the cranking VE table can be regenerated and hopefully solve this issue.

I was actually thinking at work it might've been the VE table still being a little rough; I know I've still got the slight hesitation in second under heavy acceleration.
Hopefully sometime in the next couple of weeks we can figure something out and be able to meet up again.
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Also, a few questions for those who might now; when I install a wideband O2, does it matter which pipe it's in? And is it possible for me to add a pin into the 0411 without unhooking the connectors from the PCM? I should've added a wire for Tow/Haul when I was pinning it up the first time.
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A/C works pretty damn good I think, I could probably charge the system up just a hair more, but I'm content with it for the time being.
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Also removed the crappy plastic bed liner, and immedietely threw it in my brother's K2500.
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Evidence of the 5th wheel rails, and where one of the PO's hacked in a connector for the trailer wiring.
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Supercharged111

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Put a rubber mat or something on that floor to protect it.

My 3500 blows cold enough on low fan settings to freeze the AC brick up and the airflow dies. I have to turn it to fan only WOT to thaw it back out.
 

AK49BWL

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Yes you do have to pull the connectors off the PCM in order to re-pin or add pins... The pin won't get past the snap going in or out unless you pull the colored covers off.

Personally, I'd replace the fuel pump if it's giving even slight indications of failure, loose wiring or not.. GM has a reputation for burning out fuel pumps after all lol. Once I replaced mine, I never heard it again... Have to get right next to the tank in order to hear if it primes or not lol.
 

BNielsen

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Yes you do have to pull the connectors off the PCM in order to re-pin or add pins... The pin won't get past the snap going in or out unless you pull the colored covers off.

Personally, I'd replace the fuel pump if it's giving even slight indications of failure, loose wiring or not.. GM has a reputation for burning out fuel pumps after all lol. Once I replaced mine, I never heard it again... Have to get right next to the tank in order to hear if it primes or not lol.

Damn, I was hoping I wouldn't have to pull it all apart again; oh well, guess it's just one more time unhooking everything then I can wrap it and loom it all up for good.
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Well, I guess adding a tow/haul pin will let me add a few other things like bumper lights, and get my trailer wiring finished.
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