Bought a new motor with a cam can I run it on stock tune till I can get it dyno tuned

[CRF450R]

Well picked up my rebuilt 5.7 vortec today I'm not going to take chances I'm going to install the motor when I get a chance and trailer it to a local tuner and just call it a day I'm still ahead even with the tune as no GM dealer in Saskatchewan can even order a new drop in replacement.

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[CRF450R]

Before you toss that engine in your truck, I would buy some engine oil break in additive and put it in the truck before you crank it up. Also, be sure to hold the RPM's up between 2000 and 2500 RPM's for 20 minutes, in case your engine builder is less than honest and you have a comp 280H flat tappet (which is the closest thing to the specs you have mentioned). Hate for a cam lobe to go flat in short order and you stuck with an engine that needs a cam swap anyway.

Now I'm going to assume my tuner will want it broke in before he gets it. Would it be safe to fire it up and run it at 2000km for 20min before the tune? And also should I let the truck idle and come up to operating temperature before I put it to 2000k or do I just fire it up and 2000k right off the hop?

 

[Supercharged111]

Roller cams don't need break in. Rings need to seat though. If that is a 280 cam I suspect the torque will disappoint you in a truck. I would either get the cam specs or measure yourself.

 

[CRF450R]

Roller cams don't need break in. Rings need to seat though. If that is a 280 cam I suspect the torque will disappoint you in a truck. I would either get the cam specs or measure yourself.

Im bit worried about the torque as I keep my truck under 3000rmp at all times I drive like a old guy what's the best way to break in the rings it's got molly rings in it.

 

[SAATR]

Now I'm going to assume my tuner will want it broke in before he gets it. Would it be safe to fire it up and run it at 2000km for 20min before the tune? And also should I let the truck idle and come up to operating temperature before I put it to 2000k or do I just fire it up and 2000k right off the hop?

IF the cam is a flat tappet, it's 2000 to 2500 rpm for 20+ minutes, depending on the manufacturer. Only for flat tappet cams though. You don't have any solid information about your cam whatsoever, so unless you plan to open the engine up and at minimum verify what style of lifter it uses, I would err on the side of caution and treat it as a flat tappet. Running a roller at 2500 for 20 minutes won't help or hurt anything. NOT running a flat tappet for that initial break-in will assure flat lobes and ruined lifters.

Your best option is to open the motor up and get the cam's part number and information, unless the seller can provide a cam card. Second best is to open the motor up and degree the cam so you know what you're working with. Third is to pull a valve cover and rocker/pushrod and see if it's a roller or flat tappet before you start it for the first time. Fourth is to treat it like a flat tappet without opening it up and let your tuner figure out what you've got through trial and error. Last is to fire it up, drive it, and hope for the best.

And to answer your other question, you don't wait for warmup. Fire it up and immediately bring it to the proper engine speed and hold it.

 

[Supercharged111]

In his first post he States that it's a roller cam.

 

[SAATR]

He had a hydraulic roller comp cam 460/460 lift, 280int./280 exh duration, installed.

In his first post he States that it's a roller cam.

The problem is that Comp does not make a hydraulic roller cam with those specs. They make a flat tappet that is extremely close:

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And a hydraulic roller with waaay more lift:

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The OP only knows what he was told, and that information is, one way or another, wrong. It's a Comp hydraulic roller and the lift specs are totally wrong, or it's a Comp flat tappet and the lift/duration quoted is very close to correct, or the specs are right and it isn't a Comp cam at all, or it's all BS to sell a motor. In any case, my recommendations stand.

 

[Supercharged111]

Very good point.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

The problem is that Comp does not make a hydraulic roller cam with those specs. They make a flat tappet that is extremely close:

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And a hydraulic roller with waaay more lift:

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The OP only knows what he was told, and that information is, one way or another, wrong. It's a Comp hydraulic roller and the lift specs are totally wrong, or it's a Comp flat tappet and the lift/duration quoted is very close to correct, or the specs are right and it isn't a Comp cam at all, or it's all BS to sell a motor. In any case, my recommendations stand.

I may be a custom grind with the specs labeled. Should not be hard to verify it has a lifter spider for the roller cam and dog bones between the roller lifters.

 

[CRF450R]

He claims the motor was built to the

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same specs as this one.

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