Bought a CC Dually 454 Whipple

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Supercharged111

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I did the shift fork pads on my NP243 on my 1500. That and some snap ring eliminator kit or some ****, but I thought the BW cases were pretty well nukeproof? I may have some googling to knock out tomorrow.
 

andy396

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That’s incredible. I can’t believe it blew out the seal like that!

I wish I saw this sooner, I would have said to pull the trans pump and replace the boost valve. It’s one of the common wear points of the 4L80E. The valve itself can be replaced in the truck, but the cap on the back side of the valve often leaks has to be replaced with the pump pulled (I think).

Not sure how you pulled the trans with the exhaust all still in place, but that had to be such a pain!
 

andy396

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What sorts of issues do the BW cases have?

None that I know of.

Oh, and my original drums were press on. If you replace them with slip on, make sure the hub diameter is correct. The ones I got from NAPA were like 0.010 a 0.015” bigger than the hub and if I don’t shim it to center it you can feel the vibrations when you apply the brakes. Super annoying.
 

454cid

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None that I know of.

Oh, and my original drums were press on. If you replace them with slip on, make sure the hub diameter is correct. The ones I got from NAPA were like 0.010 a 0.015” bigger than the hub and if I don’t shim it to center it you can feel the vibrations when you apply the brakes. Super annoying.

There are two different hub hole diameters, sounds like you have the wrong ones.
 

Supercharged111

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None that I know of.

Oh, and my original drums were press on. If you replace them with slip on, make sure the hub diameter is correct. The ones I got from NAPA were like 0.010 a 0.015” bigger than the hub and if I don’t shim it to center it you can feel the vibrations when you apply the brakes. Super annoying.

Did you need different wheel studs to convert to slip on?
 

Supercharged111

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All 6 of the exhaust manifold fasteners came out after soaking in PB Blaster since Saturday. Gonna be way easier to put the trans back in now. I can also wire wheel all the rust and oily **** off of the front pipe and fix the crappy WBO2 bung weld since I couldn't reach the top in the truck. Trans is clearly as the General built it.

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Also went after the trans with a wire wheel until my battery died. Gonna hit it again before I stab this back in the truck on Thursday.

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I also replaced the input seal while I was here. And finally I replaced the rear main seal. I smeared the inside with Lucas grease and the outside with 518 anerobic sealant to hold this fvcker in place. By the looks of things my paranoia is all for naught though, the old seal hadn't been fully seated for a long damn time. The new one fits much tighter.

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This thing has been pushing oil out the rear main for a long damn time. It's stunk like oil since the day I bought it. I wrote it off long ago as a leak out the dipstick/oil pan, but after what I've seen here I know it's been the rear main for a long time which explains how the trans and tcase were so thoroughly nasty. I'll see if I can't get it in the steam cleaning bay on Fort Carson Auto Hobby Shop to get rid of the mess this has all made.
 

Supercharged111

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I was apprehensive about removing the manifolds, but had my reasons to do so. 1 known broken stud.

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And the right side was leaking too.

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There were a few loose fasteners too. This motor has studs for all but 1 on each side. A little PB Blaster and the nuts came right out. I'm glad I pulled them now, they're getting sandblasted and painted before reinstallation. Just another thing on this truck that isn't as clean as the rest of it.
 
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