Discussion in 'OEM and Custom Interiors' started by 454cid, Apr 2, 2019.
I bought ac delco through rock auto, no complaints 2 yrs old now
Since you mentioned these brands, I do have an anecdote to share that causes me to lean more towards VDO than Four Seasons. But take it with a grain of salt, because it was a different application for a completely different car:
When it came to my Mustang's radiator fan motor, the VDO motor's mounting tabs were stamped steel, and the plug was molded into the housing, just like the OE fan. The Four Seasons unit, on the other hand, had flat mounting tabs that didn't look to be as strong, and it had a sloppy-looking pigtail plug hanging off the motor.
Naturally, I went with the VDO. And it hasn't given me any trouble as of yet. I'm not seeing any such major differences between those brands on the blower fan for our trucks, but I would probably put the VDO closer to the top of my list anyway, just based on that experience.
After getting burned on the TYC I'm not feeling adventuress enough to order a VDO since I've been specifically warned against it.
I just purchased a Four Seasons from Advanced Auto online... I had a coupon code and another discount that brought the price down to $36 total. I have to go to work shortly, so I probably won't pick it up today... it's supposed to get cold again, so I'll be putting it in tomorrow, for sure.
I think I will pull my heater core cover, and rinse the heater core and evaporator out, after vacuuming, so I get as much of the ground up leaves out as possible. I don't want to ruin my new motor. I'd also like to replace some of the power wire, but I'm not sure I can access it with the dash in place. I can see that the end is burned a bit.
With the age a repeat failures, some different brands, I would expect something else as the "Root Cause". If you take the time to look at the A/C condenser, they comes from the factory with a thin filter on some, but develop are thick fuzz on the face of it. Yes, most air distribution boxes by-pass the heater core when in A/C mode, so the air is not going thru it. But the condenser gets covered, recreating air flow and fills up with hair like fibers, leaves, wheat & other agricultural materials W / the occasional mouse. Just get some black Eastwood flexible strip caulk (Item 13524 $19) to separate the A/C box to clean out. The condensation drain hose photo is a good example.
The blower fan can be on one fuse by itself, but use a digital readout amp clamp for about $30-$40 to see the actual amperage. Brushes worn, amperage drops, amperage high or close to fuse rating, the blower fan is working itself to death. You can't blame an O2 code when you have a leaky fuel pressure regulator. You are technically diagnosing the symptom, rather than the root cause. Do your self a favor and note all of these issues.
ACDelco has its own design of components and lust like every other company, they have to find lower labor cost. Wiring harness are built by hand on vertical boards, splices are electrically welded, terminals are manually crimped, plastic connectors are installed by hand with positive connection assurance wedge is installed (CPA) then tested before wrapping. Over 87% of wiring harnesses are made in Mexico. Sad, but true. So little choices to stay competitive and increase market share while producing a quality product. I would by an ACDelco blower motor every time.
This isn't really a problem of repeat failures. I did have a failure early on that was due to the positive connector overheating, and it took me a while to find it... I think the connector was bad from the factory. After I replaced the connector I didn't have problems until I removed the cowl panel, and a lot of leaves got into the blower.... that's entirely may fault. The other blowers have simply been worn out. I run the blower most of the time, summer and winter. My truck has 288K miles.
Picked up the new blower from Advance today... looks good, just like the one I wrecked. I started vacuuming up the leaves... man I which I could drop that HVAC box easily. What a mess. I'm an idiot for letting those leaves get in there... I've had the cowl off for way too long. It's waiting for me to glue it.
The motor is in. I dropped the heater core, and sprayed the evaporator from that side and the blower side, and kept vacuuming out leaf water and shredded leaves. The HVAC drain was also working...isn't there a rubber tube that's supposed to be there? I didn't see one under the hood. I wonder if it fell off.
I left the heater core cover off for now. Surface tension keeps a lot of water in the heater core and it was dripping out for quite some time. I just went to the gas station and my windows were fogging up from all the moisture. It sure is good to have heat again.
The one thing I still want to explore is maybe replacing the wires to the blower. The ground should be easy as there is a ground point right there behind the glove box. I'm not sure where the power wire goes too, However. It's kind of a purplely/grey color. Its a bit scorched, and I'd like to go larger on the wire. I did check it, after running, and it wasn't hot at all, Though.
Oh, just to be clear on the brand I ended up with... the new blower is a Carquest, sold by Advance (they bought Carquest) but made by Four Seasons in Canada.
Rockauto has the TYC now, but it's supposed to take a couple of days for them to process it... I hope they don't decide nothing is wrong with it and charge me a restocking fee.
I just came inside from installing the heater core cover.
Don't be me... still getting leaves out the vents.
Here's the new blower. You can see the standard female spade connector I installed several years ago, and is now a bit scorched. I've been monitoring it and it's not getting hot with the new blower.
I believe both cars and trucks going back into the original factory A/C, the factory had no drain hose, just a slot cast into the housing mold. So, you didn't loose it, it wasn't there.
The terminal at the blower fan switch usual burns up. I would prefer to see that ground eyelet soldered much less adding another wire...not needed, but makes one feel better.
I would ask Santa for a digital amp clamp under the tree as I could not live without one. I counted 2 Fluke brands, 1 Pico, 1 Craftsman and 1 more in case I did not open. The fuses that come with newer Fluke DMM go up to 15 amps, but (20 years ago) the thing run 5 large. Just check specs on the DMM if you were in the market. So, knowing that high, powers the fan with a relay direct to battery. Those connections need inspection since they have been stressed over & over as well. This will be the next failure. The blower fan resistor has to have air moving across the "Nichrome" wire wound resistors or the will pop. They use a PTC thermal device, like those found in the bottom of the coffee pot's heater. Not to be replaced.
Glad you got it going for now. As the earth tilts back and you're air temp climbs, do yourself a favor and fix the ground, but check the connectors to the fan switch & high relay as well. Enjoy spring!
Separate names with a comma.