Bleeding procedure after new brake hoses?

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Misterman

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2000 c2500 5.7---- JB-7 brake option
So next project is going to be new brake hoses and some fresh fluid.

Will a scan tool be required? Or just a standard 2 person flush? If i just do the new hoses pre pinched i doubt any air will make its way up to the abs unit???? Just a standard bleed should be fine right?

Vacuum 1man setup okay?

Pressure 1man setup okay?

Searched with confusing results.
 
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Schurkey

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IF (big IF) you don't put air in the ABS doing this work, a plain ol' ordinary brake bleed using whatever method you're comfortable with should be fine...as long as there isn't already air in the ABS.

I recommend the scan tool and bleeding the ABS anyway, as it's probably never been done since the truck left the factory. There's probably ancient, contaminated fluid in the ABS passages.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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I used a small bleeder bottle and had Mom get in and stomp the pedal. Back when I did this job on Burb, I had power in the shop building so I could use an air powered bleeding unit and could handle everything myself.
 

Misterman

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IF (big IF) you don't put air in the ABS doing this work, a plain ol' ordinary brake bleed using whatever method you're comfortable with should be fine...as long as there isn't already air in the ABS.

I recommend the scan tool and bleeding the ABS anyway, as it's probably never been done since the truck left the factory. There's probably ancient, contaminated fluid in the ABS passages.
First time working with ABS. Didn't even know the truck had it until i saw the wire to the wheel sensor.

I lurked pretty much everywhere, finding ALOT of horror stories.

Read the manual, it recommends to NOT USE a vac bleeder. Calls for standard 2 man or tool J 29567. However tool J 29567 uses J-29532 and thats non existent NOS/used. Theres a company that has one in stock for $800 usd but thats out of the question.
Sooooooo:
2 man bleeder bottle probably.
QUESTION: if you had to put a percentage on it, what are the chances id put air into the ABS. Everything ive read calls for standard hose change, standard 2 man???
I used a small bleeder bottle and had Mom get in and stomp the pedal. Back when I did this job on Burb, I had power in the shop building so I could use an air powered bleeding unit and could handle everything myself.
Do you recommend any specific newer/cheaper pneumatic system?
 

HotWheelsBurban

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First time working with ABS. Didn't even know the truck had it until i saw the wire to the wheel sensor.

I lurked pretty much everywhere, finding ALOT of horror stories.

Read the manual, it recommends to NOT USE a vac bleeder. Calls for standard 2 man or tool J 29567. However tool J 29567 uses J-29532 and thats non existent NOS/used. Theres a company that has one in stock for $800 usd but thats out of the question.
Sooooooo:
2 man bleeder bottle probably.
QUESTION: if you had to put a percentage on it, what are the chances id put air into the ABS. Everything ive read calls for standard hose change, standard 2 man???

Do you recommend any specific newer/cheaper pneumatic system?
The one I got is the one harbor freight had in 2018, was around $35-40. I would figure they have some version of it still available. A car builder buddy suggested it, he had one and was pleased with it. As far as I know the abs didn't get any air into it, when I was working on the brakes. But I did everything I needed to do before I broke the system open on each side (did one side at a time) so once I was ready to take the old hose off, I could install the new one and hang the caliper enough to tighten up the hose connection. I probably had about six hours in the job counting both sides, but I work slow and try to be sure everything goes back together properly, all bolts are tightened, etc. I did the right side first and everything went pretty smoothly. Then it was getting dark so I decided to start on the left side the next morning. I had some issues with parts not fitting right, and ended up reusing one of the old caliper bolts because it would thread into the spindle bracket okay and the new one wouldn't. That's an 11mm tap, and I have one....just not where I was working! So that side took a bit longer, but even so, I had it reassembled, bled and drivable by that afternoon. The one ton parts are bigger than the half ton, and of course there are 3 more lug nuts. But 90% was pretty straightforward....
We use the abs occasionally, when you have to make a sudden stop, and I believe it's working okay because it makes that weird sound they make when they cycle. And the truck stops!
 

Misterman

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The one I got is the one harbor freight had in 2018, was around $35-40. I would figure they have some version of it still available. A car builder buddy suggested it, he had one and was pleased with it. As far as I know the abs didn't get any air into it, when I was working on the brakes. But I did everything I needed to do before I broke the system open on each side (did one side at a time) so once I was ready to take the old hose off, I could install the new one and hang the caliper enough to tighten up the hose connection. I probably had about six hours in the job counting both sides, but I work slow and try to be sure everything goes back together properly, all bolts are tightened, etc. I did the right side first and everything went pretty smoothly. Then it was getting dark so I decided to start on the left side the next morning. I had some issues with parts not fitting right, and ended up reusing one of the old caliper bolts because it would thread into the spindle bracket okay and the new one wouldn't. That's an 11mm tap, and I have one....just not where I was working! So that side took a bit longer, but even so, I had it reassembled, bled and drivable by that afternoon. The one ton parts are bigger than the half ton, and of course there are 3 more lug nuts. But 90% was pretty straightforward....
We use the abs occasionally, when you have to make a sudden stop, and I believe it's working okay because it makes that weird sound they make when they cycle. And the truck stops!
Lots of good info! Thank you!!!!

The harbor freight tool you mentioned, was it a pressure type or vacuum type?
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Lots of good info! Thank you!!!!

The harbor freight tool you mentioned, was it a pressure type or vacuum type?
Uses air pressure like from the compressor hose, like air tools. Has a bottle that sits in the MC and brackets to hold it up. I couldn't find one that worked reliably on the plastic reservoir MC in the Burb so I made something out of baling wire and it worked.
 

Misterman

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Uses air pressure like from the compressor hose, like air tools. Has a bottle that sits in the MC and brackets to hold it up. I couldn't find one that worked reliably on the plastic reservoir MC in the Burb so I made something out of baling wire and it worked.
Awesome!!!!! Thank you! Ill look into it. Its usually just me 99% of the time so this will most likely be happening
 

Misterman

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Uses air pressure like from the compressor hose, like air tools. Has a bottle that sits in the MC and brackets to hold it up. I couldn't find one that worked reliably on the plastic reservoir MC in the Burb so I made something out of baling wire and it worked.
This one?
So its a pneumatic vacuum type.
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HotWheelsBurban

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Awesome!!!!! Thank you! Ill look into it. Its usually just me 99% of the time so this will most likely be happening
This friend usually was flying solo too, and he highly recommended it. Had I had access to an air compressor I would have used it again as I wasn't sure Mom could do too much of the stomping. But she did and we got it done.
A week later I had a shop I trust replace the rear wheel cylinders because they were leaking and wetting the shoes, so the brakes were grabbing on the rear, and making the truck try to hop(not something especially welcome with a 22' long beastie!). So I'm figuring they bled it afterwards and got whatever might have been left; it had a good firm pedal when we finished, and it came home from the shop with likewise.
 
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