Big 3 cable upgrade crashes into ohm's law

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PlayingWithTBI

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Forgot to say this is LED only , halogen bulbs pull way too much for this on factory wiring.
Yes, as you said, that would work fine for LEDs with a fraction of amp draw compared to my sealed beam headlights. I'm trying to save the OE switch as well as getting brighter low beams too. I'm not worried about the relay sticking. If it does I can just pull and replace it.:waytogo:
 

Ehall8702

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Yes, as you said, that would work fine for LEDs with a fraction of amp draw compared to my sealed beam headlights. I'm trying to save the OE switch as well as getting brighter low beams too. I'm not worried about the relay sticking. If it does I can just pull and replace it.:waytogo:
Hence the reason for the big 3 upgrade in the first place I'm sure...the tbi trucks were HORRIBLE for volt drop, gauges flicker with the blinker. Where is main fuse block in those trucks? I have an vortec so main block is rite there under hood so big 3 is very easy to do
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Where is main fuse block in those trucks? I have an vortec so main block is rite there under hood so big 3 is very easy to do
The only fuse block is in the dash just to the right of the emergency brake. The 12V+ block is on the passenger firewall. I already upgraded the A/C clutch with a relay jumping voltage there from 11.4 to 14.2
 

Ehall8702

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The only fuse block is in the dash just to the right of the emergency brake. The 12V+ block is on the passenger firewall. I already upgraded the A/C clutch with a relay jumping voltage there from 11.4 to 14.2
Ufff, so even with upgraded power wire to fuse block and on the firewall u still have ****** voltage everywhere?
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Ufff, so even with upgraded power wire to fuse block and on the firewall u still have ****** voltage everywhere?
Well, I've never checked the fuse block but the 12V distribution block doesn't have hardly any voltage drop from battery to it but, as we all know, just about all of the ancillary wires are way undersized! My Dakota Dash volt meter will show ~13.8 when my Fluke shows 14.4+ at the battery.:mad:
 

GoToGuy

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We all would agree that the fluke is probably accurate. But comparing it to your dakota dash? Do you mean Dakota instruments? Not dodge dakota. Have checked the voltage at the point it feeds the gauge? Check for for accuracy? Just curious i think the digital instrument cluster would look good in my 93 k1500.
 

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Tim W

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When it comes to wires, headlights, ect my philosophy is, if its not broken leave it alone. :anitoof:

With that being said, I did the big 3 upgrade from the board member and the wires were very well made. I did see less voltage drop VIA the dash volt gauge.

I actually ended up taking the wires off and replacing back with AC delco due to me not liking how they looked under the hood.

I don't run any amps, big radios ect, so the factory wires are good for me.

As far as my head lights go, they turn on and off and shine good light in the dark and thats good enough for me. With that being said, my truck is a show truck and doesn't get driven in the rain or any bad weather. Heck the truck doesnt even hardly get driven at all anymore do to the China Virus shutting down the world. :banghead:
 
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