Ehall8702
I'm Awesome
My Amps pull 900a+ , double runs 3/0 ND I still feel it's inadequate.inrush currents for starter motors can hit 300-400 Amps. Upsizing conductors never hurts in power system design.
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My Amps pull 900a+ , double runs 3/0 ND I still feel it's inadequate.inrush currents for starter motors can hit 300-400 Amps. Upsizing conductors never hurts in power system design.
NO CCA EVER! It doesn't last two winter's up here.Great post!
No kill like overkill. I have a completely unnecessary big-3 on my truck. I'll likely do the starter wire soon too. TBH though for me its just about replacing 30 year old wiring with new, and I can make my own cables for cheap. 1/0 and 4 awg 100% OFC welding cable is less expensive than buying premade CCA cables.
That being said the wiring for the headlights leaves a lot to be desired. A relay setup is a must IMHO.
Just went to check an turns out the mechanic who swapped my engine installed the ground from frame to back of the block. So I’ve noticed other grounds from negative post to body & front of the block, and from positive post to starter, then to junction box, and from positive to alternator. The one that’s missing is from firewall to head.IIRC battery to block, battery to fender/side panel, block to frame, and rear of right side head to firewall. But that's just off the top of my head.
A lot of people forget or don't hook that one back up because it's a PITA to get to.The one that’s missing is from firewall to head.
When upgrading the headlight wire harness using relays, DO NOT use "fuses" to protect the system. Some guys use a single fuse for low and high beam protection, and that's crazy.That all depends on what your load is. If you have 55 Watt low beams then take 55W X 2 = 110W/12VDC = 9.16Amps. Of course, it'll be less Amperage with higher voltage but, if you turn on your lights with engine off, you want to be covered. I like to use Amps X 1.5 so, I'd use a 15 Amp fuse. Then you want wire sized for that 15Amp draw.
To be devil's advocate, why would I ever bother to upgrade wire to run HALOGEN bulbs? Grab leds, adda single relay onto factory wire and be done with it, 4hi mod in 15 minutes . Factory wire is more than enuff for 4 leds, and single relay, if it was to fail leaves headlights to oem operation so no chance being left in the dark! Whole investment is roughly $45 and 30-45 minutes, that's new bulbs,relay,relay socket, a few heat sharing but connectors and the time to install new bulbs and 4hi mod. 6000k 4 sided leds are far superior to any halogen.When upgrading the headlight wire harness using relays, DO NOT use "fuses" to protect the system. Some guys use a single fuse for low and high beam protection, and that's crazy.
When the fuse pops, you're screwed. And fuses--even "slow-blow" fuses pop pretty readily. If there's two circuit protectors, the low beams can fail, but you'd still have high-beams--or vice-versa.
The OEM protects the headlights with SELF-RESETTING CIRCUIT BREAKERS, often built into the headlight switch on older vehicles. I think this is Federal law. 'Course, those circuit breakers don't protect the entire system once you install relays. You'd need another pair in the power supply to each of the relays.
The typical 2X55 watt low beams get a 10-amp circuit breaker, the high beams get a 15 amp breaker. If you have a circuit fault, even if both the high and lows are affected, the headlights flash instead of leaving you 100% in the dark.