Best trailer brakes?

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ShawnSierra02

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I've got a 1988 GMC K1500, I recently got a job in a new field. I tow more trailers than I used to, most fully loaded with A/C units. It's getting sketchy towing without trailer brakes. I want one that's easy to install, electrics aren't my forte (I can tell you there's positive and negative, and some colorful wires, I'm stumped after that). I also want one that has an adjustable "surge" i think it's called, and that fits in the cubby hole/radio delete panel above the climate controls. Thanks, Shawn
 

1997

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might help you out ...
 

AuroraGirl

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I've got a 1988 GMC K1500, I recently got a job in a new field. I tow more trailers than I used to, most fully loaded with A/C units. It's getting sketchy towing without trailer brakes. I want one that's easy to install, electrics aren't my forte (I can tell you there's positive and negative, and some colorful wires, I'm stumped after that). I also want one that has an adjustable "surge" i think it's called, and that fits in the cubby hole/radio delete panel above the climate controls. Thanks, Shawn
Surge brake would be mounted on your trailer tongue and then actuate the brakes when the trailer is "braking" I think its uses springs or sometrhing, basically You move forward, fine, but then you coast, it will actuate the brakes. Its crude but it has a place

The uhaul dolly is the first thing I can think of
 

RichLo

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Yea, dont do surge brakes if you can avoid them, they are slow to react and you cant back them up without locking them up. Its just a hitch that slides and pushes against a master cylinder.

Are you asking about the truck side trailer brake controller or the trailer side brake setup? Or both?

This is the way to go for the trailer side, they make them higher pressure for disk brakes too:
 

Schurkey

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Surge brakes on my boat trailer have a master cylinder mounted to the trailer hitch socket (goes over the hitch ball) on the trailer. When the trailer is pulled forward, the socket is held by heavy washers on the bolt heads of long bolt shanks. When the trailer is backed-up (pushed) the socket is forced rearward on the shanks, which activates the master cylinder and pressurizes the hydraulic system.

The trailer brakes at the wheels have single-ended wheel cylinders acting on the primary shoes only. They're effective when going forward, but deliberately inefficient when backing. Backing up is no problem.

If someone substituted "normal" double-sided wheel cylinders, you'd have trouble backing up just like you said. But those are not the correct cylinders for a surge-braked trailer. At least, not one like mine. Perhaps there are other styles.

For example:
www.amazon.com/LIBRA-Trailer-Hydraulic-Backing-Marine/dp/B0B36KVQ5C/ref=sr_1_20?crid=3QA7ST0RJK5N5

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1952Chevy

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I installed a Redarc Tow Pro Liberty on my truck. My truck had previously had a brake controller installed, so All I had to do was connect to the wires in the cab. However I did a lot of research and it would be simple to install even if you had to route the wires through the firewall.

However with the Liberty, I only have a single knob located on my dash. The box for the controller is mounted under the dash out of sight.

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In this picture you can see the control knob under the tach, the red box is the brains and is now mounted under the dash. If you do order this controller it does not come with the harness, so you also need to order the universal harness in order to hook it up.
 
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618 Syndicate

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I installed a Redarc Tow Pro Liberty on my truck. My truck had previously had a brake controller installed, so All I had to do was connect to the wires in the cab. However I did a lot of research and it would be simple to install even if you had to route the wires through the firewall.

However with the Liberty, I only have a single knob located on my dash. The box for the controller is mounted under the dash out of sight.

You must be registered for see images attach

In this picture you can see the control knob under the tach, the red box is the brains and is now mounted under the dash. If you do order this controller it does not come with the harness, so you also need to order the universal harness in order to hook it up.
That's clean.
 

Stephen

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I installed a Redarc Tow Pro Liberty on my truck. My truck had previously had a brake controller installed, so All I had to do was connect to the wires in the cab. However I did a lot of research and it would be simple to install even if you had to route the wires through the firewall.

However with the Liberty, I only have a single knob located on my dash. The box for the controller is mounted under the dash out of sight.

You must be registered for see images attach

In this picture you can see the control knob under the tach, the red box is the brains and is now mounted under the dash. If you do order this controller it does not come with the harness, so you also need to order the universal harness in order to hook it up.
I have the same unit and love it. Have the knob mounted high to right of steering wheel above cargo light switch To manually activate I don't need to take my hand off the wheel. With boat trailer surge disc brakes the back up light has to be wired to 7 pin round and use an adapter to convert to 5 pin flat. Master cylinder on trailer has a solenoid that is activated by back up light circuit which keeps brakes from activating when backing up other wise i could not back boat trailer up. On my 96 C3500 the PO had done some jenky wiring and I ran new wires for every thing to back not realizing that the wiring was already there. Spent about 5 hours today locating both sets and removing the tape. Had to remove spare to make it easier to locate brake & hot wire. One big PITA but will be better once finished. My TT had drum and all electric so back up circuit is not needed.
 
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