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someotherguy

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I am lowered about 5/8 on my truck. I needed the C notch and I sectioned the bed support that goes over the rear end. I have shorter shocks in the rear and shock extenders to make it work. The front tires will hit the inner wheel wells on big dips (28" tall tires). You may have to roll your front fender lip as well depending on your wheels and tires. I have the stock Y pipe but a different cat back exhaust. No real changes beyond that, I haven't had any ground clearance issues, it still has about the same ground clearance as a sports sedan so just take it easy on speed bumps. Also, after cracking 4 lower front air dams I have given up on them, I might try again and spring mount it or something.
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Truck looks great. Makes me miss my '94 GMC ext cab I had with the same paint color, and I ran the gray Boss 338's on it, too.

Not surprised you're killing air dams at that height, but I AM surprised you're still running the stock Y-pipe. Tire hiting inner fender must be the first contact point before Y-pipe hitting ground, in your setup. ;) It always made me nervous the Y-pipe hangs down below the front crossmember, so I raised them before it could get a chance to become a problem. My old '92 had some severe scrape marks on the crossmember that brought the possibility to my attention.

Richard
 

618 Syndicate

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Thanks. It's possible I've just not been in one set up correctly then - I've only been in static low stuff. At least growing up in Indy, those of us static were always proud to be on springs like it was some kind of badge of honor that we weren't just low at the show or pulling in, we were always low. Looking back I'm not sure why I cared, since it is all cool to me now, but I still have no experience with air aside from OEM stuff. Most of the low vehicles I've been around were not done right and had basically no suspension travel left. It's hard to do it right, but so much more rewarding to drive and live with.
My daily truck is 6/8 static, my car is static, but only a couple of inches lower than the lowest setting of the factory hydraulic setup. My dually is bagged, but it only has about 8 inches of total travel in the rear, the wheels barely clear the fenders. Also it's the first bagged ride I've ever owned, and at 51 I've been riding low since the 80's....
 

someotherguy

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My daily truck is 6/8 static, my car is static, but only a couple of inches lower than the lowest setting of the factory hydraulic setup. My dually is bagged, but it only has about 8 inches of total travel in the rear, the wheels barely clear the fenders. Also it's the first bagged ride I've ever owned, and at 51 I've been riding low since the 80's....
Pair of old guys here :D lol.. I still remember my (one of many) '61 Apache 10's with a torsion bar de-crank drop.. and my '54 Chevy 210 with 3 leafs pulled out of each rear pack and the front coils cut. That car rode so low it re-ground the tailpipe tip at an angle on driveways and rode on the bumpstops. Was still fun though.

Richard
 

zukman31

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I am lowered about 5/8 on my truck. I needed the C notch and I sectioned the bed support that goes over the rear end. I have shorter shocks in the rear and shock extenders to make it work. The front tires will hit the inner wheel wells on big dips (28" tall tires). You may have to roll your front fender lip as well depending on your wheels and tires. I have the stock Y pipe but a different cat back exhaust. No real changes beyond that, I haven't had any ground clearance issues, it still has about the same ground clearance as a sports sedan so just take it easy on speed bumps. Also, after cracking 4 lower front air dams I have given up on them, I might try again and spring mount it or something.
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Truck looks great....
 

sewlow

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A lot of info on here about 4/6 drops, even some about 5/7. Only found one short thread about the Belltech 6/8 drop on here, and it was a couple pages with no real useful information. I’m looking to buy this Belltech 6/8 lowering kit from Summit (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bel-689nd). Want to place my order today, but wanted to get some words from those with experience. I’ve lifted a few trucks in my time. I had a 97 K1500 for years, and would like to think I know these trucks like the back of my hand. This will be the first project on my recent resto I picked up. I’ve never lowered a truck before. There’s gotta be reasons why the 4/6 is the most common kit. What are those reasons? Besides C-notch, is there anything else special I’ll have to do for the truck to be drive-able that’s not included in the kit? Specifically wondering about tire to wheel well clearance. Obviously I’ll have to take bumps real slow. Also seen some threads about raising the tank, but haven’t done any in depth reading on that topic. That’s no big deal, and I have to replace the fuel pump anyway. Any experienced advice is greatly appreciated and welcomed. What am I gonna have to do to make this work? Just love the look of the 6/8 over the 4/6, and can’t be higher than my Dad (see C10 attached). Picture of my other truck I just finished up is also attached. That one took way more from me than it’s worth, so what’s another few thousand on the C1500 gonna hurt so I can have the best of both worlds.

I’ll be keeping the factory 15s on for at least a little while because they’re in such good shape. I know wheel and tire size comes into the equation. Tires will be replaced and from the little bit of reading it appears F: 245/60r15 R: 295/50/r15 are the most common undersized tire combo on these trucks (according to Discount tire). I’ll have to do a little more reading on that, but I’ll make the wheels/tires work when the time comes.

As far as weight on front end goes, I’ll be swapping the 350 Vortec from my 97 into this 94 (has TBI 4.3 currently that I’ll be yanking soon)

Thanks ahead for any input/advice!
1 year+.
Did the truck ever get low?
 
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