Axle seals on a 2wd 10 bolt Dif with the posi lock

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mjleg

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I just did this on my truck. No big deal. If you have to do this send me a msg for more help if you need it

Easy stuff though.

Loosen the lugs on the back two wheels.
Jack up the back end and put the axles on stands so both rear wheels are hanging.
Remove rear wheels
Pull off the drums
Put a pan under the rear differential and crack open the differential by removing the 10 bolts
Take a look inside
There is a pin which is about half inch solid steel. Remove it.
Push both sides of the axles where your wheels came off as far as they'll go
Go back to your differential. You will see two heavy "C" clips which hold the axles in. slide them off
Go back and pull out each of your axles.
Pry out the seals.
Clean up the area and put in the new ones.
Rebuild. Once you put the axles in, push them all the way in and you will have to slide the "C" clips on. Then pull them out and they will go into a collar which hold them on. Then when you put the pin back, they can't slide around.

Put in fluid. Don't worry about a special pumps or w/e. They gear oil will have a pointy end that will work enough to fill the rear end once you put the cover back on.

Also, put a little of that gasket maker **** around the rear seals to help seal it up. Sometimes, the axles get a rut worn into them from normal wear and tear, so the gasket maker stuff helps.

Put a new gasket on your diff and check your brakes.
 

bizzo15

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This write up was definitely helpful when I did my axle seals the other day but there are a couple of things I would like to add to clarify things as I was a little confused when I first started out and I think this would help any others reading this. If the moderators feel differently then feel free to delete this post. Anyways here it goes.

Everything the OP said up to here was spot on but here's where I got confused and I hope this info helps anybody else out that is in my situation:

There is a pin which is about half inch solid steel. Remove it.
-In order to remove this pin there is a tiny bolt that is 5/16" you have to remove pictured here with the red arrow pointing to it.

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Your carrier may not be lined up like it is in that picture because mine wasn't originally, so what you want to do is put the truck is neutral and spin the driveshaft until the bolt is showing and the pin is facing the ground at a 45 degree angle. Once you have it where you want put the truck back in park.

It is highly recommended to use a 6pt wrench to loosen this bolt and not a socket. Give the wrench a tap with a hammer to break the bolt free so you don't have to worry about snapping it. Once the bolt is loose pull it out and the you should be able to slide the pin right out. Another thing to remember is you don't want to rotate the axle shafts or anything else while you have the pin out as you could mess up your gears and be in a world of hurt. The rest of the write up is pretty much spot on. The only other tip I would add is when you are driving in the new seals use a 2x4 and a hammer to drive the seals in straight. You don't want to tap around the edges of the seal to drive it in, as this will distort the actual rubber part of the seal and more than likely cause your seals to leak again in no time. This is a pic of what the seal should look like when you have it back in

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All in all this job should take no more than an hour but in reality could be done in a half hour if you moved quickly. Took me a little longer as I was confused on these couple things but I hope this helps anyone else doing this job.
 
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torque specs

Bizzo15,

I'm replacing my carrier. By chance, would you happen to know the torque specifications for the ring bolts and carrier bearing bolts?
 

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someotherguy

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Opportunity missed: REPLACE THE CROSS PIN LOCK BOLT while you have it out.

These are known for breaking off, and they can be a sonofabitch to extract once they've broken.

Extremely cheap insurance against future drama.

Richard
 
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