Axle Conversion Request: 1997 Tahoe to 8-Lug

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ali32109

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I want to convert my 1997 Tahoe, which comes with 6-lug axles and a 5.7L engine, to use the 8-lug axles from a Suburban K2500. I plan to swap the front and rear differentials from the Suburban into my Tahoe. Please provide any advice or guidance on this conversion
 

Sean Buick 76

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The rear is pretty simple, swap the axle out. You may need a different driveshaft.

Up front it won’t be as simple. As far as I know the 6 lug and 8 lug front end parts are not interchangeable. If it’s possible I think You’d need to use all of the front suspension and steering parts. However I think the frames are different as far as mounting points do it may not be possible without fabrication.
 

Schurkey

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Are you swapping transfer cases? You didn't mention anything about that. Perhaps a moderator will move this thread into Axles + Brakes.

There's a thread or two in the Axle + Brakes forum about swapping the 9.25" differential assembly into a vehicle that had the 8.25" differential assembly. That job is NOT FOR SISSIES.

Kinda thinking you could use the 8-lug hub/steering knuckles while keeping the 8.25 differential, as long as the gear ratio matched the rear axle. Not as strong, but heaps easier. There may be some ball-joint issues with taper angles; I don't know for sure.
 

Supercharged111

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Only right way to do it is to change out the front frame for something 8 lug. That gets you the taller rails up front, all the correct suspension pickup points, diff, axles, knuckles, brakes, bolt an axle out back and you're done. Not cheap overseas by any means.
 

offroadtahoe

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https://www.gmt400.com/threads/9-25-ifs-conversion-0-3-lift.60583/ Your in luck not to long ago no one had finished & posted how to do this for the 0-3" lifted.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/k1500-8-25-to-9-25-swap.56989/ Here is the thread for the 6" lifted

Neither is an easy conversion but in comparison you just to have to read all the details & copy vs figure it all out.

If you want to swap to 8-lug knuckles up front.Get a set of knuckles preferably from the same year truck.They are bolt-in but you will have to use 6-lug upper control arm's.

Why do you want 8-lugs? Are you swapping in a 14 bolt full float rear axle? or a semi-float 9.5? The 9.5 come in 6 or 8 lug.And you can get a conversion kit to make the 14-bolt full float a 6-lug disc setup.
 

Supercharged111

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If you want to swap to 8-lug knuckles up front. Get a set of knuckles preferably from the same year truck. They are bolt-in but you will have to use 6-lug upper control arm's.

YMMV with the suspension geometry on this one. Aren't the knuckles taller? I know the mounting points are located higher up on the 8 lug trucks, in addition to being atop a taller frame rail to begin with.
 

offroadtahoe

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YMMV with the suspension geometry on this one. Aren't the knuckles taller? I know the mounting points are located higher up on the 8 lug trucks, in addition to being atop a taller frame rail to begin with.
Haven't done it myself just know it is bolt in,But yes mounting points and frame are taller along with the ball joint being mounted on the bottom of the upper control arm.Not sure on the knuckles being taller but I think are wider (wms of a k1500 vs k2500) & yes all the geometry is different I would stick to 6-lug unless you really want 8-lug wheels.

I want to convert my 1997 Tahoe, which comes with 6-lug axles and a 5.7L engine, to use the 8-lug axles from a Suburban K2500. I plan to swap the front and rear differentials from the Suburban into my Tahoe. Please provide any advice or guidance on this conversion
If you still decide to do 8-lug in front keep us posted on the differences you find.Most do it and never post again leaving out all of the of the details that went into it
 

offroadtahoe

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Here is a video for more visual reference.Unless you plan to use coilovers like he is the forged lower control arms will be better to use.You do not have to cut and weld the upper control arm mount brackets just use the stock upper control arm and ball joint and run the ball joint on bottom of the arm the joint tapers are the same.Unless you lift the truck you shouldn't drop the diff down.Just grind the passenger side frame a little massage it the slightest bit with a dremel & there is your clearance and run button head torx bolts for the cv's
 
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