Aussie GMC C3500

Discussion in 'Member Trucks' started by Clinton, May 20, 2016.

  1. Terrick down Under

    Terrick down Under I'm Awesome

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    Looking good. great pics. Have you measured the tailshaft yet? don't forget the out side diameter as well.
     
  2. Clinton

    Clinton I'm Awesome

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    Still haven't Rick, I was going to do today but time got away - maybe tomorrow when I put the crossmember back in. Speaking of which, it's now welded, painted and ready to go.

    The clutch pedal is welded in and just needs some modding to the pedal pad area to move it away from the brake pedal and it will be ready to go.

    I'm struggling with the clutch line, a few places can't modify the line so that will have to wait. The power steering line is the same, nowhere can make the GM fitting with the double end and rubber o ring. The kit is $360 here so I think I'll just buy a replacement.

    Next issue: the spacer (about 12mm thick) on the driver's side (RHD) needs to be in there to clear the steering rod but there's none for the other side, so the whole things leans a little. My OCD doesn't like that.
     
  3. Terrick down Under

    Terrick down Under I'm Awesome

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    If you put a 8mm thick washer on the 2 most forward steering box bolts,(between the chassis and box) it will push the shaft away from the motor!
     
  4. Terrick down Under

    Terrick down Under I'm Awesome

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    Try moving the brake pedal across to the right a little. Have you put a smaller pedal pad on the brake pedal? That will give you more room.
     
  5. Terrick down Under

    Terrick down Under I'm Awesome

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    Which steering pipe are you talking about?
     
  6. Clinton

    Clinton I'm Awesome

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    That's a great idea, I'll have a look into that tomorrow, it might just work but at least worth a shot.
     
  7. Clinton

    Clinton I'm Awesome

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    I've cut down the brake pedal pad as it was wide and at this stage won't need to move it but I could go a cm or two if needed. The clutch needs to come down about 2cm and over the the left about the same.
     
  8. Clinton

    Clinton I'm Awesome

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    Its the high pressure line from hydro to steering box, I cut it as it was in the way of the bottom radiator hose and no one can re-flare it, even ENZED! So I just had a thought to buy the o-ring to an6 adapters and then I can use an6 braid as far as I need it to go. The proper flaring tool is $350!!!
     
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  9. Terrick down Under

    Terrick down Under I'm Awesome

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    What about a pipe from a wreck in Australia and we bend to suit or cut long enough to be able to put a local flare on it. Some one on gum tree was advertising parts or try Yukon spates in Vic.
     
  10. Clinton

    Clinton I'm Awesome

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    The flare is the problem, getting somewhere with an o-ring flare tool is hard to find. I'll have a think over it for a while and it will come to me.

    Did swap out the brake master today with that of a Ford. The return pressure is better than GM and same bore size. Benefit for me is that it gives me more room from the turbo, it was close before but without an engine mount spacer it was touching, so I didn't have much choice but to use this. Shoved a bolt in the bore to the same depth as the GM one and there you have it.

    IMG_2690.JPG

    I also shaved off a bit for the retaining bolts to hold it as they were a fraction off. I'm making new brake lines anyway so I'll post up when lines are done. The other benefit I've been complaining over was the brake lines coming out on the turbo side, this should fix that too. I'll let you know if the brake power is better or worse, but hard to compare when my outside brake pads were stuck, I had a crimped brake line front and bake and a master with old dirty fluid.
     
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