ATK High Performance 350ci TBI engine for 1988-1995 Trucks from Jegs

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BNielsen

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I would contact a local builder; you'd be surprised at what you might wind up with.
I got quoted $1,050 for a basic "stock" rebuild on a Vortec 350 for a K1500 project I'm mulling around. It would be about $1,350 with him acquiring the engine kit, 2-year warranty with a kit I supply or a 4-year warranty with him doing everything. Not sure how much it would be if I decided to have him build it to a 383 and since it's a flipper I'm not terribly concerned with having a rowdy engine.

Jasper is kinda meh; they've sort of fallen off the wagon from what I've heard in terms of engine quality. Blueprint is damn good from what else I've heard, just a little pricey.
 
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Dang, thanks for the advice everyone! I will call the shop I go through, and get a price. May see if I can get some Vortec heads and the TBI to Vortec manifold, and have my guy get the rest of the hardware and gaskets. Should I upgrade the head studs while I have the heads off? My truck still runs pretty good, but the engine is getting tired after 160k miles of regular towing and aggressive driving. Also, mine is a 1993, would it have provisions for a roller cam? Seems like most 1993 models did. And can I tell that from the VIN number?
 

someotherguy

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Dang, thanks for the advice everyone! I will call the shop I go through, and get a price. May see if I can get some Vortec heads and the TBI to Vortec manifold, and have my guy get the rest of the hardware and gaskets. Should I upgrade the head studs while I have the heads off? My truck still runs pretty good, but the engine is getting tired after 160k miles of regular towing and aggressive driving. Also, mine is a 1993, would it have provisions for a roller cam? Seems like most 1993 models did. And can I tell that from the VIN number?
Roller cam provisions, on a TBI truck engine, all you're going to see would be drilled and tapped bosses in the lifter valley for the keepers. 1993, tough call, but I don't think so. 1994 might (mine did.) VIN won't help you determine.. pulling the intake will.

L31's comment about the Goodwrench engine reminded me of a GM "Target Master" 350 I had, decades ago. A friend had installed it brand new into someone's squarebody, then when that truck went down for other issues, the engine came back out and went into a 1963 Suburban that I bought as my very first truck (and 4th? vehicle, still a kid.) I later swapped it into a 1961 Apache shortbed fleetside. Ran the hell out of that Suburban and that Apache, uncountable miles. Pulled that engine and sold it as a good runner.. guy puts it into his car, balancer shears the woodruff key off the crank, so my buddy goes in to deal with it. Starts taking the engine down and finds it's the most Frankenstein grab bag of miscellaneous mix and match parts that it's not even funny. The heads don't even match, and both of them were cracked, yet the thing ran fine, used no coolant or oil. Jeez man who knows anymore. :D

Sorry for the sidetrack down memory lane; looks like you're getting excellent advice so far.

Richard
 

L31MaxExpress

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Roller cam provisions, on a TBI truck engine, all you're going to see would be drilled and tapped bosses in the lifter valley for the keepers. 1993, tough call, but I don't think so. 1994 might (mine did.) VIN won't help you determine.. pulling the intake will.

L31's comment about the Goodwrench engine reminded me of a GM "Target Master" 350 I had, decades ago. A friend had installed it brand new into someone's squarebody, then when that truck went down for other issues, the engine came back out and went into a 1963 Suburban that I bought as my very first truck (and 4th? vehicle, still a kid.) I later swapped it into a 1961 Apache shortbed fleetside. Ran the hell out of that Suburban and that Apache, uncountable miles. Pulled that engine and sold it as a good runner.. guy puts it into his car, balancer shears the woodruff key off the crank, so my buddy goes in to deal with it. Starts taking the engine down and finds it's the most Frankenstein grab bag of miscellaneous mix and match parts that it's not even funny. The heads don't even match, and both of them were cracked, yet the thing ran fine, used no coolant or oil. Jeez man who knows anymore. :D

Sorry for the sidetrack down memory lane; looks like you're getting excellent advice so far.

Richard

I have pulled apart dozens of small blocks, some with spun bearings and even one with a crank in two pieces that was still running. But I have never seen a lower bearing half on a rod look like the one that came out of the goodwrench L31 engine. Got to investigating and big end of the rod was not round when properly torqued. The rest of the bearings were perfect. Both 062 heads cracked years ago and had already been replaced.

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Hipster

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Dang, thanks for the advice everyone! I will call the shop I go through, and get a price. May see if I can get some Vortec heads and the TBI to Vortec manifold, and have my guy get the rest of the hardware and gaskets. Should I upgrade the head studs while I have the heads off? My truck still runs pretty good, but the engine is getting tired after 160k miles of regular towing and aggressive driving. Also, mine is a 1993, would it have provisions for a roller cam? Seems like most 1993 models did. And can I tell that from the VIN number?
No telling if provisions for a roller are there. I've been into several early to mid 90's pre-vortec blocks and despite others saying it's possible for the provisions to be there it's been a unicorn for me.
 

L31MaxExpress

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No telling if provisions for a roller are there. I've been into several early to mid 90's pre-vortec blocks and despite others saying it's possible for the provisions to be there it's been a unicorn for me.
On the other side of that, I have seen maybe 3 of the 1-rear piece rear seal blocks that did not have roller cam provisions. One was an 86 TPI 305 that had perimeter bolt valve covers, I think it was a year before roller cams started. My uncles 94 ECSB 1500 5.7 he bought new off the dealership lot in 1994 had a roller cam and the block was VIN matching to the truck. I had an engine I pulled out of a 93 or 94 suburban that was original to the truck but not roller cam equipped in any way, shape or form. It was a 10054727. No boses in the valley and the old design lifter bores. Partial VIN matched the truck. Generally 638 and 880 blocks have roller cam provisions although not all have the holes tapped or even the tops of the lifter bores machined.

Typical flat tappet only 1-piece rear seal castings are 10054727, 14079287, 14088548, and 14101148 and all may have 2 or 4 bolt mains. I have seen a few of these with roller provisions, but they are unlikely to have them if you have those castings. My buddy had a 87 TPI T/A with a 10054727 block that was 4 bolt main and had a forged crank but non-roller. Partial VIN matched the car. So there are likely exceptions to every rule.

The blocks in addition to the 638 and 880 that are typically roller cam ready are 14011148 and 14088526.

Lots of 4-bolt main blocks as well as some roller cams and even non swirl 081(305s), 083 and 217 heads seemed to have made their way into 1500 trucks and vans going down the assembly line as well. The 217 heads were even machined with two different center intake bolt angles. I got in an argument with a guy claiming they had 90° bolts. I had a set with 72° bolts. Turns out we were both right.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Roller cam provisions, on a TBI truck engine, all you're going to see would be drilled and tapped bosses in the lifter valley for the keepers. 1993, tough call, but I don't think so. 1994 might (mine did.) VIN won't help you determine.. pulling the intake will.
Or, pulling the timing chain cover and look for the cam plate mounting holes. My 88 has a Mr Goodwrench 5.7L hecho en meheeco long block that came with the bosses for the spider and cam plate. Wish I had known that before I ordered all of the new parts for it. If/when my flat tappet cam dies, I'll go roller and not look back ;)
 
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On the other side of that, I have seen maybe 3 of the 1-rear piece rear seal blocks that did not have roller cam provisions. One was an 86 TPI 305 that had perimeter bolt valve covers, I think it was a year before roller cams started. My uncles 94 ECSB 1500 5.7 he bought new off the dealership lot in 1994 had a roller cam and the block was VIN matching to the truck. I had an engine I pulled out of a 93 or 94 suburban that was original to the truck but not roller cam equipped in any way, shape or form. It was a 10054727. No boses in the valley and the old design lifter bores. Partial VIN matched the truck. Generally 638 and 880 blocks have roller cam provisions although not all have the holes tapped or even the tops of the lifter bores machined.

Typical flat tappet only 1-piece rear seal castings are 10054727, 14079287, 14088548, and 14101148 and all may have 2 or 4 bolt mains. I have seen a few of these with roller provisions, but they are unlikely to have them if you have those castings. My buddy had a 87 TPI T/A with a 10054727 block that was 4 bolt main and had a forged crank but non-roller. Partial VIN matched the car. So there are likely exceptions to every rule.

The blocks in addition to the 638 and 880 that are typically roller cam ready are 14011148 and 14088526.

Lots of 4-bolt main blocks as well as some roller cams and even non swirl 081(305s), 083 and 217 heads seemed to have made their way into 1500 trucks and vans going down the assembly line as well. The 217 heads were even machined with two different center intake bolt angles. I got in an argument with a guy claiming they had 90° bolts. I had a set with 72° bolts. Turns out we were both right.
Awesome feedback. I have a project for myself then. I will dig around in the truck this weekend and see what I can turn up. Was on summit some today, they got 6 Blueprint cruiser 350 engines in stock, for a smidge over $4,000. With a 46mm or 47mm throttle body, and all the bolt ons already on my truck, that could be a good way to go. I only have ~$4500 in this truck including buying it, although it’s getting another new exhaust, 2.5” true duals with an x pipe, in September. That’s gonna cost a little cash. Happy with the Flowtech headers I got.
 
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Or, pulling the timing chain cover and look for the cam plate mounting holes. My 88 has a Mr Goodwrench 5.7L hecho en meheeco long block that came with the bosses for the spider and cam plate. Wish I had known that before I ordered all of the new parts for it. If/when my flat tappet cam dies, I'll go roller and not look back ;)
Well, I may order a flat tappet cam for now, and when I have it apart I can check it out. Fortunately they are super cheap so I am not worried if I only get 30k miles out of it.
 
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