Anybody see this before??

stutaeng

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Can you grind that and look at it with a magnifying glass? It may not be a crack. Is it filled with fluid? You would probably see oil seepage if it was completely cracked through.


I don't know the material of the case, but I know it's weldable. Plenty of guys "shaving" the bottom of the differential for gaining ground clearance. Look up "14 bolt shave kits," and you'll know what I mean. Truss kits and all sorts of things that guys weld to this thing...
 

kennythewelder

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MAYBE a 6010 first pass for good penetration and a 7018 cap
That is standard pipe procedure. First steep is to ID the metal. Then you will know what rods to use. If its cast iron, then ni99. I have welded cast iron in the field with just 7018 and it heald up for years. Proper perp and then preheat is the trick. 6010+ is a way better rod than reg 6010. 6010 will also crack where 7018 will not as easy. Drill the holes, grind out the crack. Then weld to clean shiny metal. As long as the gap is small, it can be welded with only 7018. If the gap is wider than about 1/16 of an inch then yes you can use 6010 as a root pass, but all of the flux will need to be grinded out before a hot pass (and again that has to be grinded to shiny metal) then 7018. If you can get away with just 7018, you will save your self a lot if grinding. But by far TIG is the best welding process. Strongest cleanest but hardest to master, and slowest process.
 

kennythewelder

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Ok, just look at a few videos on youtube. Preheat, weld with wire feed ( 70s-6 most likely), the second video He uses nic55, although ni99 is a better rod. Preheat, heat while welding, and post heat. Then wrap it with a fire blanket to slow the cooling process.
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Schurkey

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MUCH respect for competent weldors.

I own some welders--Lincoln MIG 215, TIG 175, and a modest oxy-acetylene system. But I get very little torch time; and almost none at all now that I'm at the "new" house that has limited electrical service.

Three very important things I learned:

1. The best thing I ever did to improve my welding ability, was selling my 120-volt MIG and replacing it with a 240-volt unit.

2. The best thing I ever did for my own comfort/safety was to get rid of a cheap Hobart "solar powered" self-darkening welding helmet, in favor of one that had a battery.

3. My welding skills have led to greatly improved grinding skills.
 
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RichLo

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That is standard pipe procedure. First steep is to ID the metal. Then you will know what rods to use. If its cast iron, then ni99. I have welded cast iron in the field with just 7018 and it heald up for years. Proper perp and then preheat is the trick. 6010+ is a way better rod than reg 6010. 6010 will also crack where 7018 will not as easy. Drill the holes, grind out the crack. Then weld to clean shiny metal. As long as the gap is small, it can be welded with only 7018. If the gap is wider than about 1/16 of an inch then yes you can use 6010 as a root pass, but all of the flux will need to be grinded out before a hot pass (and again that has to be grinded to shiny metal) then 7018. If you can get away with just 7018, you will save your self a lot if grinding. But by far TIG is the best welding process. Strongest cleanest but hardest to master, and slowest process.
Thanks Kenny, Stutaeng and Schurkey for the advice!!!

I am most comfortable stick welding and my favorite rod is 7018 so I'll probably go with that for the crack in the housing and I'll find a suitable gusset for that area also with 7018. I hate 6010 unless I'm trying to bust through rust.

But I might practice TIG on the axle tubes since the 14b FF hasn't spun yet, it would just be re-enforcement on that axle. I've been using the TIG mainly on aluminum and I'm getting ok results with that so hopefully I can make nice looking welds on steel.
 

RichLo

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And I think I found the 37" tires I need to not have to re-gear anything, ebay link below :Caffeine:

This guy is about 2hrs away from me so I wouldn't have to ship those behemoths and he has Humvee wheels that I looked up has the same 8x6.5 bolt pattern as Chevy's! One stop shop for those, things are coming together.

 

thegawd

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I'm picturing a plow truck with the bigger wheels on the front.... I think its guna look cool as hell! you may start something... lol
 

RichLo

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I'm picturing a plow truck with the bigger wheels on the front.... I think its guna look cool as hell! you may start something... lol

Bigger are going to be in the back, like a truck pulling setup.

3.42 gears and 30.5" tires in the front
4.10 gears and 37" tires in the back
 

RichLo

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Stuck brake drum? No prob some gas cant fix.

Seriously though, I'm usually really good at choosing the right size tip and making pretty cuts with oxy/acetylene but I couldn't for the life of me get a steady cut with this drum... I would get it hot and melted and hit the oxy and it would go for 1/2 inch to 1 inch then the 'river' would stop and I would have to repeat. This was with a 0, 1 and 3 tip, I stopped and used the 3 tip just because of brute force.

But, maybe Kenny or somebody else who knows, what was I doing wrong here? Or was it because I was blowing into a confined space?
 

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