Any recommended "extra" work while the tranny is out?

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MMcc

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the cost is offset by running the engine oil 6-10K miles
We spend $1600 in gas every 8k mi. I can wrap my head around an additional $30 per every-other oil change for ATF.
(assumed $3/gal and 15mpg)
 
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alpinecrick

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Gawd, Technova,
Read my post again.
I change my engine oil ~ 3000 miles. Drain the trans pan every 2nd or 3rd oil change—in other words, every 6k-10k.
The only way I know how to KEEP automotive fluids fresh is to change them BEFORE they get old, or dirty, or in the case of ATF, burnt.

‘Cause once they are old, or dirty, or burnt, they be no longer fresh…..
 

Schurkey

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Trans shop I deal with insists on:
1. Additional ground cable for transmission, connected to a freshly-polished spot on the frame and a bellhousing bolt. I'd guess 8-gauge cable, perhaps 18 inches long.
2. Transgo "Shift kit". Not the more-intensive shift reprogramming kit for hot-rods.

There's a zillion aftermarket (and some OEM) heavy-duty parts for the 700/4L60/4L65 series of transmissions. A guy can go nuts loading the "shopping cart" with expensive, "stronger" parts. After wearing-out (knocking the teeth off of) the planetary gears TWICE, I gotta say that the "good" 5-pinion planetaries are probably worthwhile. My recent trans overhaul didn't get the 5-pinion planetary; the shop didn't have 'em in stock. Ended up with 'normal" 4-pinion planet gears instead. I was kinda bummed.

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"I" would be very suspicious of a deep pan on an off-road vehicle. Make damn sure it doesn't hang lower than the crossmember. You don't want to find the trans pan is a ground-clearance issue.

Many times a drain plug in a trans pan is silly--just another leak point or protrusion for a boulder to knock off. Drop one of the cooler tubes from the cooler inlet, point the bleeding end of the tube towards a drain pan (or install a temporary tube on the cooler outlet) Start the engine, shut off the engine when the trans has pumped the fluid out the cooler tube. Once the pan is near-empty, removing it isn't messy.

When I change trans fluid, I change all of it, and the filter, and clean/inspect the debris in the pan.
 

thegawd

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why does a transmission need a ground strap? it receives ground signals and has constant 12v? why does it need an extra ground? that dosent fit in how I understand its operation... that's not the first time I read that though. as far as I know the transmission does not need a ground. the solenoids receive on/off ground signals and have constant 12v... my understanding was so that if one of these wires shorted out it would only operate instead of burning up the wires....

am I wrong?
 

stutaeng

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why does a transmission need a ground strap? it receives ground signals and has constant 12v? why does it need an extra ground? that dosent fit in how I understand its operation... that's not the first time I read that though. as far as I know the transmission does not need a ground. the solenoids receive on/off ground signals and have constant 12v... my understanding was so that if one of these wires shorted out it would only operate instead of burning up the wires....

am I wrong?
Yup, not to mention that the bellhousing is mounted directly to the engine block. I'm sure whoever recommends the ground strap has a logic to it...I would guess that even the internal parts are electrically conductive to the case. Just about everything inside is metal and connected though metal shafts with some sort of metallic bushing of sorts. Never had thought about that.
 

honkon

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8k ATF interval is a waste of oil.
You should install an aftermarket trans cooler. Maybe have the transfer case refreshed while it's out.
Totally agree with @Schurkey
You want someone that will actually go all the way through the transmission and look for worn parts. My first 4L60 rebuild died a premature death way out in the back country after the factory-original planetary grenaded. Replace thrust bearings.
 

Schurkey

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I think the logic for the ground strap on the trans is that if the engine ground strap gets excess resistance, the engine/trans will ground through the speedo cable (if applicable) or the shift cable/shift linkage. The linkage wouldn't be too affected, but the cables weld themselves to the metal sheath, then the cable shears.

I figure "what the hell"; it can't hurt.

But perhaps it's just another way to add some charges to the bill, sort of like the damned "Shop Supplies" and "Hazardous Waste Disposal" bullshiit.
 

thinger2

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why does a transmission need a ground strap? it receives ground signals and has constant 12v? why does it need an extra ground? that dosent fit in how I understand its operation... that's not the first time I read that though. as far as I know the transmission does not need a ground. the solenoids receive on/off ground signals and have constant 12v... my understanding was so that if one of these wires shorted out it would only operate instead of burning up the wires....

am I wrong?
It has to do with the path to ground and the difference between "more noble" and "less noble" materials and alloys.
That charge will find ground. It has to in a completed circuit otherwise it wouldnt work.
You wouldnt have a completed circuit.
But it will find the easiest shortest most conductive ground.
The trans ground prevents that path from being through the tailshaft bearings and any other "lesser" alloy in the case.
Any charge passing from a more noble alloy to a less noble alloy take some ions with it on the way.
Eventually, the less noble material disintegrates.
This also I why block grounds are so important.
You dont want that path to ground going through the main bearings.
This is why boats use sacrificial annodes.
Zincs
The zinc will rot away and not the hull fasteners or keel bolts or engine bearings.
Its all about the path and the plane of ground and the chart of nobility.
 
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