Anti-Seize or Nah?

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Frank Enstein

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I paint the mating surfaces between wheels and drum/rotor. Stays tight and no sledge hammer to remove the wheels next year.
My 94 Sub wheels would stick so badly that I would loosen all 8 lug nuts and drive it up and down the driveway until they "popped".
Cheap rattle can silver paint to the rescue!
 

Frank Enstein

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GM is in the business of putting vehicles together, to stay together. They're not concerned so much about them purposely coming back apart. The threadlocker that's ususlly on OEM bolts should protect the threads to a degree, but that's going to go away after re-use. There are times, I use Loctite instead of ant-seize, as it does double duty.

Here in MI, we have to worry about corrosion, that you don't have in NC. Winter can be like red threadlocker, only stronger.
Red thread locker? Not even close. More like flux-core "MIG" welding!
 

454cid

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I use anti sieze on plugs especiaaly on aluminum.
But just a tiny little speck of it.

I try to not go too light, but not heavy either. Sometimes I get a little too much on if I'm doing a larger surface.... I get impatient and start putting more on the brush, I'm using. I typically use an acid brush. Sometimes if I'm only doing a small amount of threads, I don't even dip the brush into the can.

And lap them with some valve compound and coat them with lead plate.

I suspect that the Govt. surplus anti-seize that I bought years ago, and am still using is lead. It works great, and doesn't separate....non-separation is actually part of the now superseded mil-spec.
 

Ehall8702

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Aluminum-aluminum, you must use it. Dissimilar metals, you must use it. Don't use the copper stuff on stainless.

I think most people just slather it on, which is way too much.

The conventional wisdom is not to use it on spark plug threads and wheel studs. I still use it on spark plugs, but again, very small amount just to help get them in by feel.
Ufff, I DESPISE antiseize!!!! Don't matter which metals once it dries up a little bit actually almost welds stuff together! U guys in southern states prolly don't have any issues with it but up north, it makes things worse. We use basic ass chassis grease , it's nuetral so doesn't conduct and is petroleum based so inhibits rust too, just don't use it in rubber stuff (caliper pins and such). ONLY place I use antiseize is copper on sparkplug threads and oxygen sensor threads. I may not know it all but I've been doing this day in and day out for most of my life and this works, never once seen aluminum antiseize be anything but a huge hassle getting things apart vs just leaving it bare. But that's my $.02
 

454cid

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Ufff, I DESPISE antiseize!!!! Don't matter which metals once it dries up a little bit actually almost welds stuff together! U guys in southern states prolly don't have any issues with it but up north, it makes things worse.

Are you sure someone didnt swap your anti-sieze with threadlocker? I use it BECAUSE I'm up north.
 

Ehall8702

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Are you sure someone didnt swap your anti-sieze with threadlocker? I use it BECAUSE I'm up north.
I deal with it everyday, been doing this professionally for last 15 years. Wash that garbage off and use a thick grease instead, less mess and actually comes apart when u need it too. Everyone uses that aluminum anti size and when it dries it's worse than a weld. Pull a hub bearing out once that was greased vs antiseize and you will know the difference lol. Warrantied a hub bearing 8 months after I installed it and loosened bolts and pulled hub out with my hands, antiseize and I'll spend 25 minutes beating the fudge outta the bearing getting it out.
 
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