Anti-Seize or Nah?

[Hipster]

I follow Schurkey's train of thought on this.

I have never ever used Never-Sieze in 30 plus years of doing collision work doing suspension, brakes, or steering components, and have never seen where the use of anti-sieze was even recommended either.

It's better to have to heat stuff with a torch to get it apart than to have stuff work loose going down the road. Marine stuff/trailers being an exception and use a marine grease with the understanding it's going to need frequent inspection.

I totally agree that anti-sieze used in a slipping application acts like sanding paste so not to be used in applications such as lubricating brake shoe plates against a backing plate, caliper pins etc..

 

[454cid]

I have never ever used Never-Sieze in 30 plus years of doing collision work doing suspension, brakes, or steering components, and have never seen where the use of anti-sieze was even recommended either.

I use it on all those places.... on threads, not tapers.

 

[Hipster]

I use it on all those places.... on threads, not tapers.

Show me an Oem repair procedure that says to use Anti-sieze on brakes or suspension.

An Oem factory service manual or Oem repair guidelines are the authority and just because you've been doing certain things a certain way and getting away with it doesn't mean it's the proper way to do it.

 

[454cid]

Show me an Oem repair procedure that says to use Anti-sieze on brakes or suspension.

An Oem factory service manual or Oem repair guidelines are the authority and just because you've been doing certain things a certain way and getting away with it doesn't mean it's the proper way to do it.

GM is in the business of putting vehicles together, to stay together. They're not concerned so much about them purposely coming back apart. The threadlocker that's ususlly on OEM bolts should protect the threads to a degree, but that's going to go away after re-use. There are times, I use Loctite instead of ant-seize, as it does double duty.

Here in MI, we have to worry about corrosion, that you don't have in NC. Winter can be like red threadlocker, only stronger.

 

[Schurkey]

Don't get me wrong--I use anti-seize on all sorts of stuff that the manual doesn't call for. But not on anything with a taper-fit; and when I do use it, I reduce the fastener torque to 80% of spec.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Aren't the OE manifolds cast iron?

They certainly are. Though the Vortec engines have them in the pipes.
And for that matter, my '95 TBI has its single O2 sensor in the "y" of the headpipe, pre catalyst.

 

[Ruff Idol]

They certainly are. Though the Vortec engines have them in the pipes.
And for that matter, my '95 TBI has its single O2 sensor in the "y" of the headpipe, pre catalyst.

Pardon me, I just realized on my 92 TBI I have two - one in the manifold on driver's side and one on the passenger side of the Y pipe. Then again I replaced the entire exhaust system with aftermarket parts so it could be because of that? Does this sound like an OE setup for these trucks? I have no idea because I bought the truck with another aftermarket system.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I just realized on my 92 TBI I have two - one in the manifold on driver's side and one on the passenger side of the Y pipe. Then again I replaced the entire exhaust system with aftermarket parts so it could be because of that?

Unless you have an upgraded ECM/PCM, only one is functional. I have 2 O2 sensors on mine with the EBL, a heated NBO2 in the header on the driver's side and a WBO2 in the Y pipe collector. I can only run on 1 at a time though. I can switch between them in the calibration with my WUD (What's Up Display). Some day I'll probably pull the WBO2, once I'm done playing with the tunes, use it on another vehicle, and run the NBO2 going on.

 

[Moparmat2000]

Pardon me, I just realized on my 92 TBI I have two - one in the manifold on driver's side and one on the passenger side of the Y pipe. Then again I replaced the entire exhaust system with aftermarket parts so it could be because of that? Does this sound like an OE setup for these trucks? I have no idea because I bought the truck with another aftermarket system.

My 94 is a 350 5 speed. Not sure if that makes any difference or not. It only has a 1 wire one in the LH exhaust manifold. That's it. I have owned it since new.

 

[thinger2]

I use anti sieze on plugs especiaaly on aluminum.
But just a tiny little speck of it.
The only time that antiseize is required on cone fits is through hull valves for ships.
When you go through hull inspection to get recertified you pull all of yhe through hull valves and take them apart.
And lap them with some valve compound and coat them with lead plate.
And the coastie checks them for function etc.. and tells you if you can put it back in the boat.
That anti seize is there because that valve has to work no matter what.
That is a no choice use of anti sieze.
And any marine engineer who wants to keep alive checks that function before he tells the deck that he is ready to go to sea.
Heres how it goes wrong.
The gearbox to prop shaft coupler is a keyed tappered heat shrunk fit.
You have to pull the shaft for the coast guard too.
So we passed got our new cert and all was well.
But a monkey didnt understand that the gearbox flange needed to be heated so it could shrink back onto the prop shaft.
Frosted it like a a friggen cake with anti seize.
And off we went.
A 60 foot gaff head ketch under full sail in about 30 knots of wind in the Tacoma Narrows with 15 paying passengers on board.
Thats when the prop shaft pulled out of the coupler and the prop did an underwater windmill and chewed the wood off of the leading edge of the rudder and hit hit the rudder post and jammed the rudder.
Que up the Benny Hill music.
No engine, no steeering, 2500 square feet of sail up and headed for the rocks.
No options but to drop the anchor.
But this is a chain boat.
No line.
85 pound Danforth with 200 hundred feet of 5/8 Chain.
You cant just chuck it out.
You have flake it back and forth across the deck so it has a clear run.
If you drop that much wieght through the hawshole and it gets knotted up or kinks on the run it will rip the bullwarks right off of the boat. It might rip it right down to the keel.
Stay with me folks. It gets worse.
So we drop the hook and it caught and that boat spun around on the hook and the booms came across and it settled back on the opposite tack and sailed right the **** back over the damn anchor.
Pull the anchor! Pull the Anchor!!
And we hauled all of that right back up.
We drug the shaft back into the boat and dropped our extremly traumatised passengers off knowing that they would never sail again.
But that is not the end of the story.
I was a rookie deck monkey and I was in charge of cooking dinner for the boat crew.
Spaghetti. How do you screw that up.
It does take quite a long time to boil water on a marine deisal stove.
But 5 hours is a bit too long.
The pasta disovled and then the water evaporated out of the pot and it reformed kinda like a big round cheese.
Burnt black on the bottem.
I cut into wedges like a cake and tried to pass it off.
I was just to big for them to drown me.
Though they sure as hell tried.
And that is why I am banned from cooking upon the navigable waters of the United States and Canada and for a distance of 200 nautical miles offshore.
Friggen anti seize.