Aftermarket sound system

[99xcss4]

all right I have found a 0 gauge ofc kit www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Power-Wiring/dp/B008UL18L6?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A1NLNJ4Y2QP8Z&gQT=1&th=1 it dose not include a rca cable but that is okay font one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/1670019382...TgAsOeNruyt+f+T2iORFpmFA==|tkp:Bk9SR9a214rcZQ it is a all in one

 

[99xcss4]

have to say that @Drummer Lad 6x9 in the roof will be louder then the 4x10 never knew there were plates to put them in but you would need to cut the head liner and most likely make some cuts in the roof and personally I could never see my self doing that but to each their own

some thing else that could never see my self do is hacking up the back cab like some people say and some may have because the rear 4x6s are not that big

 

[Feral peasant]

You may have been told this already, but I'm not about to scroll through all the comments on every page to find out. It would make sense for those back speakers to be 4x10s, that would be the same as my suburban. I would recommend converting the plates for those to 6x9 size. You can get much better sounding 6x9s than 4x10s.
If you don't care about your speakers being super loud, it should be fine to just power them from the head unit. That will likely push about 50 watts rms, which isn't bad. Plus it's a whole lot more wiring to get an amp set up.
For subs I have a single 12" Skar Audio DDX. It sounds great, and will take a beating. However, going cheap I would just look for a decent name brand sub on marketplace, you can probably get your set up for like $150 and then wiring for like $50. Don't make the same mistake as me trying to get a cheap amazon $30 wiring kit. The speaker wire melted and the fuse was only rated for 60 amps, so I had to spend like $50 anyways, and my power and ground wires definitely aren't as nice as if I just got a skar wiring kit.
I don't really know if you've had a lot of experience wiring this stuff up, but it's a good amount of work to get a sub in there, especially the first time. Take it step by step, you might not get it all done the first run through.

When I wired up my 10" kicker in my green truck I ran the RCA, rem, and power wire for the amp wasn't too bad but man I sat in the Walmart parking lot because I kept having to buy more stuff lol

 

[Feral peasant]

I think this would be a good mids and highs amp

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

https://www.down4soundshop.com/prod...channel/mm504/?mode=4&sort=featured&limit=100

I Got the radio, I'm kind of set on those 51ks5604, I'm still thinking about the sub I want to get it seems the kickers are less efficient than the skars but same price if not more. I wrote all important information for each one. I'm assuming I add all the peak watts to see the max watts for the amplifier. looks like 500W max for the mids (door speakers) and max for the highs are 150W. max watts for the most powerful sub is 3,200W.

so just under 4,000 watts in total if I were to run speakers off the amp. I mean I could run them off the factory wires and if I don't like how they sound I already have an amp rated for the sub so I'd just have to get another one and add the speakers to that.

How would I look for an amp for just the sub? If it were the SVR-2X1204
(Edit didn't add 4x10 speakers into equation)

Unless I'm doing the math wrong all the speakers add up to 650W. Speakers 250W tweeters 250W roof speakers 150W. But maybe it's late but I think 250W for the tweeters is a bit much and maybe it's 125W for each door added together (1 tweeter 1 speaker) or is it 125W for all 4 together

 

[Feral peasant]

can not think of any thing else that needs to be posted other then keep your rcas and power wire as far away from each other as you can put the + power on one side of the vehicle and the rcas on the other

Ive done that with my other truck just because it was easier to run it like that but is there a reason? Like heat?

 

[99xcss4]

I Got the radio, I'm kind of set on those 51ks5604, I'm still thinking about the sub I want to get it seems the kickers are less efficient than the skars but same price if not more. I wrote all important information for each one. I'm assuming I add all the peak watts to see the max watts for the amplifier. looks like 500W max for the mids (door speakers) max watts for the most powerful sub is 3,200W.

so just under 4,000 watts in total if I were to run speakers off the amp. I mean I could run them off the factory wires and if I don't like how they sound I already have an amp rated for the sub so I'd just have to get another one and add the speakers to that.

How would I look for an amp for just the sub? If it were the SVR-2X1204

peak and max power dose not mean much the rms route mean squared continuous power is what dynamic power is more accurate then peak/max a bass amp/mono block can not run door speakers unless it is a fullbride most are not some 4 channel amps can run your doors and subs but they are very big and need good electrical the factor speaker wires are fine to for running the door speakers on the head unit or a amp

you could get a bass amp and sub subs and run the door speakers off the radio and latter on you can a second amp dose not have to be done all at once
you would be better off adding up fuse ratings rather then power out put it is fine to have more power then you need you can all ways turn it down not having enough on the other had can be very bad

booth kicker and skar have different levels for there sub offerings
do you plan on building your own box or getting a prefab or have some one build you one

here is a example of power draw and power out put of a system the 4 channel that I linked recommends a 25 amp fuse and dose around 50x4 at 4 ohms and dose a little more at 2 ohms the smallest mono block that I linked calls for a 70 amp fuse even though it is rated at 555w at all ohm loads it actually around 1000w if you went with that set up you would have around 1200w system out put and a draw of around 95 amps both of these amps are very beneficent around 80%

 

[99xcss4]

Ive done that with my other truck just because it was easier to run it like that but is there a reason? Like heat?

the reason you do that is the power wire is so big that it will introduce noise wine into the audio system

 

[99xcss4]

here is a great example of why peak power/max power is BS and may as well be called when lightnig strikes of if lightning strikes try to avoid things like this

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[Feral peasant]

peak and max power dose not mean much the rms route mean squared continuous power is what dynamic power is more accurate then peak/max a bass amp/mono block can not run door speakers unless it is a fullbride most are not some 4 channel amps can run your doors and subs but they are very big and need good electrical the factor speaker wires are fine to for running the door speakers on the head unit or a amp

you could get a bass amp and sub subs and run the door speakers off the radio and latter on you can a second amp dose not have to be done all at once
you would be better off adding up fuse ratings rather then power out put it is fine to have more power then you need you can all ways turn it down not having enough on the other had can be very bad

booth kicker and skar have different levels for there sub offerings
do you plan on building your own box or getting a prefab or have some one build you one

here is a example of power draw and power out put of a system the 4 channel that I linked recommends a 25 amp fuse and dose around 50x4 at 4 ohms and dose a little more at 2 ohms the smallest mono block that I linked calls for a 70 amp fuse even though it is rated at 555w at all ohm loads it actually around 1000w if you went with that set up you would have around 1200w system out put and a draw of around 95 amps both of these amps are very beneficent around 80%

Oh okay so I shouldn't really worry about peak power, kinda like the tach you can run up the rpms to 6k but it won't last for super long there

I was thinking I might start the system off smaller with only the amp for the sub instead of the 2 amp set up. How would I get the fuse rating?

Is there actually a different on sub boxes? I thought it was basically a box with a hole cut out. Also I believe the subs I'd choose from come in a box already unless I'm wrong.

Is the 50 in 50x4 stand for 50 watts x 4 speakers? I seen on the video you linked that amps run about 70%-80% efficiency would it be 1,200W is what it says but it actually runs at 960W

 

[99xcss4]

Oh okay so I shouldn't really worry about peak power, kinda like the tach you can run up the rpms to 6k but it won't last for super long there

I was thinking I might start the system off smaller with only the amp for the sub instead of the 2 amp set up. How would I get the fuse rating?

Is there actually a different on sub boxes? I thought it was basically a box with a hole cut out. Also I believe the subs I'd choose from come in a box already unless I'm wrong.

Is the 50 in 50x4 stand for 50 watts x 4 speakers? I seen on the video you linked that amps run about 70%-80% efficiency would it be 1,200W is what it says but it actually runs at 960W

both kicker and skar have lose subs and loaded enclosures the 50.x4 is the speakers meaning your door and roof speakers would ad up to 200w and the smallest mono block that linked dose around 1000w so with 200 of the doors and 1000 for bass that is where the 1200 comes from and that is with the 70-80 efficiency