Advice

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Qball

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So I will be replacing my trans soon as the one in my truck currently failed due to the radiator failing in a manner letting coolant into the trans cooler lines and was just wondering if there is any advice y'all who have done this once or twice can offer. If it makes a difference it's a 96 variety.
 

DeCaff2007

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2wd or 4wd? That alone makes a difference in the time/difficulty aspect. The biggest thing to be careful of is the sheer weight of the transmission. Slushboxes can be 250+ lbs. Then, if you have a transfer case with it, I'd take the transfer case off separately.

After that, the hardest part is lining up the new trans. Otherwise, if you have the correct replacement trans, it's plug and play.
 

stutaeng

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So I will be replacing my trans soon as the one in my truck currently failed due to the radiator failing in a manner letting coolant into the trans cooler lines and was just wondering if there is any advice y'all who have done this once or twice can offer. If it makes a difference it's a 96 variety.
Looks like a 1500 2wd per your avatar...I had to do this twice on my NBS 1500 2wd :(. Should be pretty much the same on your truck.

Get the tallest jackstands you can get under the truck and lift it safely. You can also use ramps. Again, safety first.

1. Remove driveshaft
2. Remove crossover exhaust pipe and that torque converter cover thing if you have it.
3. Disconnect battery and remove starter
4. Remove 3 flexplate bolts (accessed thru starter.) They are hard to remove. Get a breaker bar.
5. Use a block of wood and lift transmission slightly, enough to remove the crossmember
6. Lower the transmission a bit. This will allow you to gain access to the bellhousing bolts. You'll need long extensions to get to the top ones.
7. disconnect everything else (harness, dipstick, cooler lines, etc.)
8. Gently break away unit from bellhousing and lower it.

I used a regular jack to remove mine, but I did borrow a trans. jack to install it. Sounds like you are replacing your radiator, but typically you should flush your cooler lines with Kooler Kleener stuff. Actually, forgot to mention first step is to drain the fluid!

Read, understands and follow recommendations for torque converter spacing when re-installing. I hope this helps.

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PlayingWithTBI

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My old Michelin floor jack has a removable pad leaving a hole (1-1/16" IIRC) which accommodates a transmission jack adapter. I think I paid under $100 for it on Amazon. It worked great!

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Got the truck up high enough to get it out while still on the jack. Don't forget to support the back of the engine too.
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I wouldn't do it without the proper tools, too dangerous IMO. Here it is sitting nice and stable.
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As mentioned above, flush all the lines and coolers before installing the new one. Use at least 2 cans of the stuff flushing back and forth until it comes out clean. Then blow them out.
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Qball

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It is a 4wd variety and so far two biggest issues I've run to in the front drive shaft does not want to let go of the transfer case and the exhaust collector (I know it's not technically a collector but idk what else to call it) nuts that I just had off 2ish years ago are now one with the stud
 

Qball

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It is a 4wd variety and so far two biggest issues I've run to in the front drive shaft does not want to let go of the transfer case and the exhaust collector (I know it's not technically a collector but idk what else to call it) nuts that I just had off 2ish years ago are now one with the stud
I have managed to get the exhaust off and driveshaft next hurtle is trying to get the t-case and trans up high enough to remove the cross member. Is there any way to disconnect the t-case enough to drop the trans while leaving it in the truck?
 

stutaeng

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I would say just go ahead and remove the transfer case. It's relatively light. You have to slide it back enough to remove the bolts on the transmission tail housing anyways.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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You HAVE to disconnect the t-case from the transmission. The torsion bar x-member is in the way. There isnt enough room to scoot the trans/t-case as an assembly back, tilt downward, then forward to clear the crossmember AND the exhaust pipe that's behind the engine oil pan.
You'll likely have to tilt the torque converter end upward to clear said exhaust pipe anyway.
 
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