Adding sub and amp to stock radio

[RawbDidIt]

Seconding what Micheal Hurd said above, I'd go with that, in a dual 4 ohm, wired in parallel, and make sure you get an amp that can put out 500 Watts RMS at 2 ohms. Please don't cheap out on the amp, I don't want to read a thread on here about a Tahoe burning to the ground.

If you picked the aforementioned sub because it boasted high numbers I'd advise against it. I have 2 10" subs running 400W RMS each in the back of my Dodge Caliber. You can definitely hear me before you see me, even with the windows up, and it doesn't take 1000W of power to get there. A friend of mine just put the Alpine SWS12 in his TrailBlazer, it sounds good, doesn't take up a lot of space, and is almost as good as my setup. Even if it did put out what it claims, and you got the $1,000+ amp it would require to safely push it to its limit, you'd overpower your mids and tweets. Why not save a little more, and invest in a nice head unit as well which will boost your signal to your door speakers?

 

[Biggershaft96]

Seconding what Micheal Hurd said above, I'd go with that, in a dual 4 ohm, wired in parallel, and make sure you get an amp that can put out 500 Watts RMS at 2 ohms. Please don't cheap out on the amp, I don't want to read a thread on here about a Tahoe burning to the ground.

If you picked the aforementioned sub because it boasted high numbers I'd advise against it. I have 2 10" subs running 400W RMS each in the back of my Dodge Caliber. You can definitely hear me before you see me, even with the windows up, and it doesn't take 1000W of power to get there. A friend of mine just put the Alpine SWS12 in his TrailBlazer, it sounds good, doesn't take up a lot of space, and is almost as good as my setup. Even if it did put out what it claims, and you got the $1,000+ amp it would require to safely push it to its limit, you'd overpower your mids and tweets. Why not save a little more, and invest in a nice head unit as well which will boost your signal to your door speakers?

As much as id love to get a nice dual din with all the bells and whistles, Its the fiances dd and she says the stock head unit stays. She just wants more thump out of it, not like a mind rattling window blowing system, but ive always had crappy luck with output converters. If youve got a sub/amp combo you can suggest feel free, I still havnt made any final decisions yet. It like it to run one single 10" sub though.

 

[RawbDidIt]

Alpine SWS-10D4 ohm, with Alpine MRV-M500 amp.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWS10D4/Alpine-SWS-10D4.html?tp=68872


https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRVM500/Alpine-MRV-M500.html?tp=35834

 

[OlSmokie]

What would you suggest for a single 10" in a smallish box (12x18x12ish) in the back of a tahoe?

I used a 10" Kicker Base Station, tap into the rear speaker wires and Bob's your uncle. Never had it turned up more than half way.

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[98chevy2500SS]

I wouldn't even waste your time on the stock radio, I'd get a Kenwood aftermarket radio. I have a Kenwood BT558U stereo and it is noice! Costed me about $100-$150 back in 2014, plus the $20 install kit and the $5 wire adapter. They are actually really easy to install and save you SO much time! You will have to krimp the wires for the aftermarket stereo so that it can connect to the stock plug in. After that, plug in the RCA cables from the sub to the radio and wah-la!

 

[OlSmokie]

I agree with 98chevy. Aftermarket head units are cheap and the install kits make everything real easy to put in without cutting or modifying anything.