Perfect.
Heh. So the 95+ are a tiny bit different, but it'll still work if you're willing to put in a bit of effort lol. This is what'll be in your truck. 95+ without RKE is actually very similar.
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This is the RKE setup from a 95+ truck.
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Yeah I know I cut off the top.. Here's a full view if you need it:
https://www.ak49bwl.com/other/wires/1997K1500/PowerLocks-KeylessEntry.pdf
Notice how the lock switches run in series on no-RKE models vs the switches wired in parallel on RKE models. Also the motors are wired together without RKE, and run all over the place with RKE. You're going to be making some wiring changes to the doors if you decide to put this in.
To wire in the RKE module, connect the orange wire(s) from RKE Pins E and F and relay module Pin C to the orange/black wire going to your door switches - that'll put the RKE system on the same circuit as the locks themselves. Black wires from both modules are obviously going to be ground (RKE Pin N, relays Pin D).
If you want, you can wire your dome lights to the RKE module as well - it'll turn your lights on when you unlock with the fob, then shut em off again in about 30s. If you do that, you'll want to splice the pink wire (Pin J) to an ignition (hot in run) source - or the lights won't turn off when you turn the key on until the timer runs out lol. Run the WHITE WIRE that is next to the LIGHT BLUE wire of the RKE module (Pin S) to the white wire of one of your door pin switches or the white wire on the courtesy light knob next to the headlight switch.
Now, the way my 97 works, tapping the unlock button on the fob once unlocks only the driver door; a second tap unlocks the rest. Since your door lock actuators are wired together, that's not going to work the same way. You have to separate the two motor signals, unless you're just not worried about having separate unlock signals. However, you ARE going to need access to the door lock switch on both sides to change wires around.
If you want to separate them, cut the tan** wire coming from the driver door. **THERE ARE TWO TAN WIRES coming from the driver door to the passenger door!! Make sure you get the correct one (continuity test!) or you're going to be missing your passenger window down signal lol. Wire the driver door side of the tan wire you just cut to Pin A of the RKE module, and the passenger side of the tan wire to Pin H AND relay pack Pin B. Splice the GRAY wire from the doors to the relay module's Pin E.
If you don't care about separating the motors, just don't cut the tan wire, and simply splice it to Pin A of the RKE module.
That takes care of the motors... Now we need to change the switches a bit. In the driver door, REMOVE the black wires from the door lock switch and get rid of them. They're no longer needed. Note the black wire with the RED STRIPE - leave it alone, it's needed to stay where it is. In the passenger door at the lock switch, you will need to REMOVE the GRAY wire from the connector (and cover it and/or cut it off, as it will not be reused), and REPLACE its position with the LIGHT BLUE wire. I don't have access to these style switches but I would assume it's possible to de-pin and re-pin the connector.... The light blue wire needs to go where the gray wire was at any rate. The same needs to happen with the TAN and BLACK/RED wire - get rid of the tan, replace it with the black/red. Congrats, your door switches are now wired in parallel. Don't try to completely rip out the gray and tan wires, as they do go to your lock actuator in the door.
Now you need to find those same light blue and black/red wires coming out of the door. Splice the light blue wire to RKE Pin B AND relay module Pin A. Splice the black/red wire to RKE Pin R AND relay module Pin F.
LAST THING. The Black/White Striped wire coming from Pin L of the RKE module needs to be accessible in order to be able to program fobs! This wire must be GROUNDED during programming ONLY - leave it with no connection at all other times. To program fobs, GROUND this wire, the door locks will cycle. HOLD the lock and unlock buttons on the fob until the locks cycle again. Repeat that step with any additional fobs. When done, disconnect the wire. You're done. Test and enjoy remote keyless entry!
Final note: Having not actually done all of the above myself, I cannot vouch 100% that it will absolutely work - Only that it definitely should, with one possible small caveat: The motors appear reversed in the wiring diagrams between 88-94 and 95+. So if your lock switch unlocks your doors and vice versa, all you have to do is swap the two wires at the connectors to the lock actuators - those connectors can be easily re-pinned.
Hmm, interesting. The RKE module of a 93-94 S10 Blazer isn't very different, and I CAN access a wiring diagram for them. Plus they have a third unlock output for if you wanted to hook something else up to it
but, no dome light control with that one. It would get you the older-styled remote tho, rather than the rounded one of the 95+.
Even further research shows that the 95-97 S10 RKE modules are VERY much like my 97 Sierra's RKE module (actually it could be a 95-99, I don't remember what I swapped it out of lol), in fact the wiring pin-out is identical save for one wire. This is quite intriguing.
