AC question

[KO1960]

It came with a kit from RockAuto, and the description said that it fit the truck. There's an inline orifice tube that can be cut into the line between the receiver drier and the compressor. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Co...eQ=&serial=&siteState=|hasWorkingJavascript.1

Do you think this will work?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

There's an inline orifice tube that can be cut into the line between the receiver drier and the compressor

It needs to go between the condenser and the evaporator. You need to run cold gas through the evaporator to make it work.

 

[KO1960]

Ok. It looks like we're going to have to purchase the other condenser. Thanks for your help.

 

[Jujube]

It took me a while, I had to watch the end of the race ending between the Bush brothers, hate em both, but at least a Chevy won! Then I had to refill my To-Kill-Ya drink and walk all the way out to my shop (30') to take a couple pics.

I figured it would be easier to show you how rather than firing up the CAD to generate a schematic...

I have the same HVAC controller you do (thought so)

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1st - you need to get this HP switch kit, you can get it anywhere, just make sure it's blue and comes with the 2-wire harness, green O-ring, and snap ring.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...4517359/1988/chevrolet/c1500-pickup-rwd?pos=1

2nd - Install it in the back of the compressor where the plug is (snap ring pliers)

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3rd - Cut the OE connector off the wire going to the original 1-wire switch connector and ground it to the T-Stat housing with all your other grounds.

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4th - Wire the new 2-wire HP Switch connector (I had red wire laying around) to the Low Pressure switch at your Drier/Receiver in series. Cut one of the wires, in this case I cut the light green one (makes no difference which), in 2 and splice the HP wires to those leads (I screwed in the pipe that goes from the Drier to the Evaporator to show the LP switch), make sense?

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I’m trying to figure out how you wire in series. Does this drawing depict what I should do. I cut the Light Green and connected each end of the HP switch to them. Is this correct?

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[PlayingWithTBI]

I cut the Light Green and connected each end of the HP switch to them. Is this correct?

Yep, this is a pretty old thread. Here's what I did more recently to get full battery voltage to the clutch coil too. You can ignore that part but the connections for the pressure switches are pretty much as you drew...

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Note: notations in blue were added to the OE wiring.

 

[Erik the Awful]

That's a confusing way to run it. Why aren't you running everything off the A/C clutch relay instead of adding another relay?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Why aren't you running everything off the A/C clutch relay instead of adding another relay?

Because my 88 doesn't have an external relay. The clutch wire comes straight from the A/C control panel and only supplied 11.3 V so the clutch was slipping causing warm air some times. Now I have 14.1 V at the clutch.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

The only relay I have on the firewall is for the fuel pump.

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[Erik the Awful]

Your diagram above shows both an "A/C CLUTCH RELAY" and an "AUX CONTROL RELAY", that's why I asked.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Your diagram above shows both an "A/C CLUTCH RELAY" and an "AUX CONTROL RELAY", that's why I asked.

Yeah, I took that upper part from the service manual so, in essence, the A/C CLUTCH RELAY is the internal switch that turns it on. Sorry for the confusion.