ABS delete

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Supercharged111

Truly Awesome
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
12,705
Reaction score
15,503
Do you have JN3 brakes now?

The JN/JB5 calipers will bolt to the steering knuckle. I've been told that the hubs are different between the "3" brakes and the "5" or "6" brakes. I know that the rotors are different; (thicker) that's probably why the hubs are different.

When it was me, I just used the knuckle, hub, rotor, and caliper from each side of the donor vehicle. The booster and master cylinder also have to be updated to the JB5/JB6 style.


When they work properly, there's no problem with the ABS units. But most of the time, they're not working properly. Either they're outright defective; or (more often) they haven't been bled properly.


No. They were just cheap, bottom-feeder, small, cost-cut pieces intended for the smallest, lightest (most popular) C/K GMT400s.


Chevy had a 402. Buick had a 401 (Nailhead) which was labeled a 400 when installed in the Skylark. Last year of production for the Nailhead was '66. Starting in '67, Buick had a modern wedge-head 400, along with the 430. Both the wedge 400 and 430 were dropped at the end of the '69 model year in favor of the Buick 455.

They work, in that they prevent lockup and keep you going forward, but the pedal fights, pushes back, and the damned things just don't stop. Totally different experience in my 98 Grand Prix GTP, 04 Z06, and 07 Envoy Denali. Pedal doesn't kick back and the things just stop.
 

stutaeng

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 7, 2019
Messages
3,410
Reaction score
4,349
Location
Dallas, TX
Chevy had a 402. Buick had a 401 (Nailhead) which was labeled a 400 when installed in the Skylark. Last year of production for the Nailhead was '66. Starting in '67, Buick had a modern wedge-head 400, along with the 430. Both the wedge 400 and 430 were dropped at the end of the '69 model year in favor of the Buick 455.
It was definitely a Buick and it had been swapped, so a 401 Buick then. I couldn't remember if 401/402.

I recall everyone said the engine seemed torque-y. I was only 10 or 11, so not old enough to drive ...:confused:
 

evilunclegrimace

Does not always play well with others
Joined
Sep 18, 2017
Messages
2,392
Reaction score
2,487
Location
pennsylvaina
The JN/JB5 calipers will bolt to the steering knuckle. I've been told that the hubs are different between the "3" brakes and the "5" or "6" brakes. I know that the rotors are different; (thicker) that's probably why the hubs are different.
This is correct, I swapped my '90 K1500 front brakes from the JN3 to the heavier front brakes from a F44 equipped truck by looking up all the part numbers and comparing all the parts from both systems on the parts counter. The bigger front brakes required a different front hub/bearing assembly.
 

FrankieD61

The Stooge Called Slappy: Slappy'sAutoService
Joined
Sep 18, 2021
Messages
344
Reaction score
358
Location
NY
So, after taking a closer look, I found that my master is bad. I bought a new one. Now, I'm a "while I'm here" type of guy, so I now want to upgrade my booster to a JB6/7 one. While doing my research, I found there are different rod codes. What do these represent?
 

evilunclegrimace

Does not always play well with others
Joined
Sep 18, 2017
Messages
2,392
Reaction score
2,487
Location
pennsylvaina
So, after taking a closer look, I found that my master is bad. I bought a new one. Now, I'm a "while I'm here" type of guy, so I now want to upgrade my booster to a JB6/7 one. While doing my research, I found there are different rod codes. What do these represent?
The length of the rod. Different masters have different recesses at the booster end. If you do not have the correct rod the master will not have the proper stroke.
 

FrankieD61

The Stooge Called Slappy: Slappy'sAutoService
Joined
Sep 18, 2021
Messages
344
Reaction score
358
Location
NY
The length of the rod. Different masters have different recesses at the booster end. If you do not have the correct rod the master will not have the proper stroke.

So how do I pair the correct master with the correct booster? What do I need to know.
 

Schurkey

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
11,128
Reaction score
14,025
Location
The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
I now want to upgrade my booster to a JB6/7 one. While doing my research, I found there are different rod codes. What do these represent?

The length of the rod.
Sure?

I was guessing it's the pedal pushrod for various vehicles--GMT400, full-size car, Squarebody, 2-ton truck...whatever that booster design was used on. So I figure, any booster from a GMT400 is likely a good candidate. I wasn't expecting differences with the master cylinder side.

Used to be that Delco masters, and Bendix masters had different recesses in the primary piston. So one took a longer booster-to-master pushrod than the other. But all JB6/7 masters should be the Delco version.

In the end, I'm just guessing.
 

FrankieD61

The Stooge Called Slappy: Slappy'sAutoService
Joined
Sep 18, 2021
Messages
344
Reaction score
358
Location
NY
Sure?

I was guessing it's the pedal pushrod for various vehicles--GMT400, full-size car, Squarebody, 2-ton truck...whatever that booster design was used on. So I figure, any booster from a GMT400 is likely a good candidate. I wasn't expecting differences with the master cylinder side.

Used to be that Delco masters, and Bendix masters had different recesses in the primary piston. So one took a longer booster-to-master pushrod than the other. But all JB6/7 masters should be the Delco version.

In the end, I'm just guessing.

If I were to look on Rockauto, what type of master should I look for? Something that includes f44 in the description?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
64,242
Messages
1,389,567
Members
51,220
Latest member
DJost
Top