ABS Delete Failure

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NightRunner

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Did you check out rockauto for the proportion valve ?

Yes, checked RockAuto, O' Reillys, Autozone, NAPA, Advanced Auto Parts with no luck. I was searching boneyards when I heard about the S10 thing. Luckily I had one lying around so I got it done. Apparently it's a discontinued part.
 

NightRunner

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That is what I was thiking. I am not having any issues with my brakes, but just wanted the info for future issues. The ABS in these trucks arnt anything spical, so doing a delete is not like your realy loosing anything. As long as mine is working Im not going to fool with it, but if it fails, I will remove the system. Thanks for the info.

The biggest reason I did this delete is because when I got the truck, it had a busted wheel cylinder in the back that basically introduced a ton of air into my brakes. I replaced the wheel cylinder but even after cycling through multiple bottles of brake fluid I just couldn't get the air out. I tried to purge the ABS valve with no luck. So I got frustrated and said, "**** it, this is coming out."

Definitely glad I did it, but if your ABS system is functioning correctly and you don't have any air in your lines I see no reason to do the delete unless you just don't like modern stuff like ABS or computers and such like some of us. :)
 

Supercharged111

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Luckily my 88 don't have abs . But I removed all that crap off my 04

Weird, my 88 had the RWAL and I deleted that garbage.

The 4 wheel can easily be deleted like the RWAL. The 4 wheel is really only a 3 channel though. Just find a few junkyard lines to make it the same as a TBI truck and plumb it as you would a RWAL delete.
 

NightRunner

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My issue was that there was still air in the actual ABS valve that just wouldn't purge no matter what. I tried to kick it multiple times down a back road but it kept holding air to the point I got so frustrated I just ripped it out. But the brakes work great now so I'm happy with it.
 

Supercharged111

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GMT400 ABS sucks regardless of how many wheels it controls. It's slow,overreactive, and doesn't get the truck stopped. Later generations are great.
 

JustinJ94FSB

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Sorry to bring this thread back from the grave but i had a related question and didnt want to make a new thread just for this. If i want to put in a NBS MC and completely remove my big ol ABS computer and components completely, what all do i need? I know i need the NBS MC obviously, the fitting adapter to make my brake line fit into the MC, and then for the lines do i need to find a blazer/jimmy and rob the brake lines from it, and then a proportioning valve from a same-era s10? or a proportioning valve from a 94ish blazer/jimmy that does not have abs? im trying to compile a parts list so i can hit up the wrecking yard and get everything in one trip if its available. My brakes are absolutely horrendous and borderline unsafe. Really makes driving this truck unenjoyable when i have to pump my brakes one time almost every time i come to a stop to get a pedal that feels like its doing something.
 

Supercharged111

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I'm guessing you have the 3 channel ABS? I harvested TBI lines from the boneyard to delete mine. You'll need to add the t fitting and front most section of line to the front brakes and replace the section of rear line that goes to the union on the frame near the front of the cab as I recall.
 

Gibson

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You'll likely get better info if you posted what model brakes you have, ie., JB?/JD?,, and what kind of booster.
The NBS MC is designed for 4 wheel discs,, and there are several posts in this forum where switching to an NBS MC with rear drums has made the braking worse,, (too low of a pedal).
NBS MCs are not a cure-all for bad brakes, and they don't push the large amount of fluid necessary to expand the rear cylinders without a lot of pedal travel.
 
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