ABS Delete Failure

[NightRunner]

Hey all, need some advice.

I was following along with the ABS delete as seen on this link here: http://www.gmt400.com/threads/1990-c1500-abs-rwal-removal.11427/

My wheel cylinder recently failed and introduced a ton of air into my brake lines. Rather than try to activate the ABS valve to fully bleed the system, or have a dealership charge me an arm and a leg to bleed them I opted to delete the ABS system. The fitting ended up going straight into the proportioning valve without needing the fitting (some people have said they have experienced this) but it wouldn’t fully seal tight enough. It basically was just loose enough to the point where it kept spraying brake fluid from the port. I tightened it up as far as I could, but eventually it looks like the proportioning valve stripped out on that port.

I’m extremely frustrated at this point as I’ve been fighting air in my brakes lines to no end since I got the truck and I need to have it running for the weekend but have limited funds. Can someone explain to me what happened here so I can get it fixed? I figure I’m going to need another proportioning valve but I want to avoid stripping the next one out as well.

 

[NightRunner]

So to add to my frustration and confusion, it appears that O' Reilly's and Rock Auto do not offer a stock replacement for my proportioning valve. I've been told it's a dealer only item, which is strange. I found a couple of "universal" eBay ones for "GM style" brake systems such as this one. Would this work for my application? It seems to be the same type of setup, and I'm not looking to spend $150+ on a stock replacement that it seems only Carolina Classic Trucks sells.

Another strange issue that I believe might be playing a part in my "air in brakes" issue is the line itself going to the rear. I've been told a crack in the flare could cause a leak like mine had, or a slight bend in the line as well. Could someone point me in the right direction for a replacement line/flare set together to just cover my bases here on this? I'd rather spend the extra $$ at this point because it seems there is no cheap fix other than fixing it right the first time and being done with it.

Any advice/help/guidance is greatly appreciated, I'm at my witts end with this truck's brake system.

 

[NightRunner]

Day 2 of my added frustration. It appears as if the universal proportioning valves are for disc converted rear ends. Unable to work with rear drum brakes.

I CANNOT for the life of me find a replacement proportioning valve that isn't above $150. Even junkyards that I've talked to act like I'm crazy. Is this some golden part that you just can't get anymore? Is there another method of setting up the brake system to function? Capping off the rear brake lines and running the reservoir to the front brakes exclusively seems dangerous but might be the only solution I can find here.

 

[shamrock246]

Is this what your looking for

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Disc-Drum-Proportioning-Valve-for-1-2-20-9-16-18-Outlets,9878.html

 

[NightRunner]

Possibly. The closest I could find to the correct looking proportioning valve was an S10 one. ACDelco 172-2069 was what I came across. If this is true, I have a 96 S10 in my possession I could probably rob the proportioning valve off of for the time being. Still worried about why the line was spewing fluid at the top to begin with though.

 

[NightRunner]

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[shamrock246]

What about an adjust able one from Wilwood.I would not get rid of the rear brakes.

www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderValves

 

[NightRunner]

That’s incredibly affordable compared to the CCT replacement. Any idea how to install it on my setup? I notice it has three bottom valves and my old proportioner only has two. I’ll probably just replace the master cylinder as well

 

[shamrock246]

I have a different abs system than you but when i was researching bypassing mine it looked like it the valve would just go on the rear circuit and the fronts would go strait to the master. If you go with the actual proportion valve with warning switch then you could run dual circuits for the front.

 

[NightRunner]

Well, we have a resolution!

So someone told me the S10 prop valve might work. Tried it, no go. After a bit of thinking, I had a crazy idea. I flipped it backwards, bolted everything in and now the truck feels amazing. Apparently the bracket is backwards on the S10 but it's still the same prop valve. So now, truck has great brakes again and no more RWAL ABS to bug it out. No more air in the brakes either, it feels like a new truck!

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