A/C accumulator question

[smdk2500]

So the seal on my compressor decided to blow it guts out on my 95 2500. Any tips on getting the accumulator nuts loose? I cannot get them to break loose. All i have managed to do is bend the line coming out from the evaporator. I do need to replace the lines that bolt to the comp due to one of them rubbing on the battery tray. So the line on the front i can just cut to aid in removal of everything. I don't really want to have to replace the evap unless its the last ditch effort. I don't see why these lines are so tight with the relatively low pressure this system runs. The units I work on at work run higher pressures and are not this tight. Any tips would be grateful.

 

[Oldblue98]

Mine did the same, and it is pretty common.. You can hack saw chunks of it away or use a cutting blade and gently cut chunks out of the accumulator until you get to the threads and you can turn it out, it is not tight that causes it, it is corrosion in the metals that welds it tight. Easy does it, little slices at a time. There is write ups on this on youtube I believe as well as some on here .

 

[Oldblue98]

So the seal on my compressor decided to blow it guts out on my 95 2500. Any tips on getting the accumulator nuts loose? I cannot get them to break loose. All i have managed to do is bend the line coming out from the evaporator. I do need to replace the lines that bolt to the comp due to one of them rubbing on the battery tray. So the line on the front i can just cut to aid in removal of everything. I don't really want to have to replace the evap unless its the last ditch effort. I don't see why these lines are so tight with the relatively low pressure this system runs. The units I work on at work run higher pressures and are not this tight. Any tips would be grateful.

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[cnowalk]

I just did this last week with my truck and I encountered the same issue getting the line loose that goes from the accumulator to the evaporator. I don’t have much for magic advice, but I’ll tell you what we did. I sprayed the fitting with WD-40, and just kept trying with two big wrenches (1 1/8” and 1 1/16” I think). We unbolted the hood to open it wider for more room, and called a neighbor over for help. My dad ended up breaking it loose when showing his neighbor what we were trying to do.

 

[smdk2500]

I am trying to avoid cutting it since im not a fan of doing that. ive seen to many of our reefers come in where people have cut components out with a sawzall and have gotten copper pieces in valves and the compressor. I know flushing the system is a good way to solve this but ive seen stuff get hung up on something and then come loose and taking out other parts. I will try soaking it and I know the snapon guy has a cheater bar that is made to go on wrenchs to make them longer Ive been contimplating buying and give that a shot. Thank you for the replys.

 

[Steve A]

When you put it back together don't use PAG oil on the o-rings or threads. I read on one of the a/c websites that PAG oil draws moisture that causes the corrosion on fittings. Mineral oil was recommended for the o-rings or you can use Refrigeration Technologies Nylog Blue, mineral oil is cheaper and a lot easier to find.

 

[Darrell]

I wouldn't cut unless the nuts are corroded and busted up like the vid shows.

With the hood on it certainly doesn't leave much for getting over top of the nuts and breaking loose. Would be best if you're a contortionist as you'll most likely bust a knuckle but it can be done.

Just remember the nuts on the accumulator never turn, only the line nuts do.

I've used a buddy to hold the accumulator nut with the tool of your choice while I used a small breaker bar on the line nuts. Just make sure you use the proper wrenches or you can roll the nut edges very easily

 

[Oldblue98]

I wouldn't cut unless the nuts are corroded and busted up like the vid shows.

With the hood on it certainly doesn't leave much for getting over top of the nuts and breaking loose. Would be best if you're a contortionist as you'll most likely bust a knuckle but it can be done.

Just remember the nuts on the accumulator never turn, only the line nuts do.

I've used a buddy to hold the accumulator nut with the tool of your choice while I used a small breaker bar on the line nuts. Just make sure you use the proper wrenches or you can roll the nut edges very easily

In my case as the poster described, the line was twisting with the fitting it was becoming obvious if I stayed with the wrenches I would be replacing the evap as well, not a job cherished by most. I cut a couple of chunks out and it made life easier. I would suggest as a last resort and the line is twisting up on you. I replaced compressor etc and flushed and pumped it down eight years ago and it is still in the chill mode. Good luck on your job hope it all works out for you.

 

[Ken K]

As a dealer tech, we ran into this often. Although we would use flare-nut crows-foot wrench adapted to 1/2 breaker bar, carefully apply a little heat as aluminum expands twice as much a steel. There is no steel in either fitting, so protecting surrounding areas, we would get a buddy system, one with torch and the other with wrenches at the ready. The flare-nut wrench grabs around the fitting a provides more contact, but 1 5/16" & 1 3/8" where off the SnapOn truck and not cheap. Hit the fitting quick and hot as to not allow heat to penetrate the inside fitting, then wrench it. Option #2, heat it good, then try the next AM with a good penetrating oil other than WD40...Use ZEP.
Yes, as Steve A said, use mineral oil (R12 Lube) for o-ring / fitting lube. Mine is in a spray can, but PAG oil will draw moisture into the fitting and causing seizing. Like you have now. But it happens on it's own as a working system has a frosty dripping accumulator anyways. Best of luck.

 

[smdk2500]

Im not worried about busting knuckles Im used to that i swear the our reefers has 15 pounds of stuff shoved in 5 pound hole sometimes. I haven't had time to get to this im hoping this weekend. Im used to paying out the nose when I buy off the snap on truck. Its like a candy shop for mechanics when you step on the truck.