'99 Silverado 4.3 to 5.3 Swap with 4L80e bonus

[stutaeng]

Sure thing!
This going to be a daily driver?

Not really. For the year before last I had to switch to 20W-50 oil on that 4.3 to get me though the summer. And tranny had a valve body code. Did a harsh 1st shift after driving on the freeway for some time... Needed more room for the family. I DD a 06 Suburban 2500 now, so this is a "spare" truck. Wife said I can keep it. It's not a garage queen and has scratches here and there. After all, I used as a truck all these years. But it's not beat to death as most of these trucks sadly wind up...

Plan was to use it for weekend errands, hauling stuff doing housework and going out of town travel in the state (sometimes may have to tow a 6x12 trailer.) I want to swap to 4.10s, but seems easier (and probably cheaper) for me to swap to a junkyard 14 bolt rear. My DD has 4.10s and I really like them. I wouldn't mind doing a front 8 lug front swap to match, if that's possible. I "think" maybe the 2500LD trucks of this era may be a good swap candidate? I haven't gotten there yet. Need to get it driving again, LOL.

I told my 9 year old son this is his ride when he get's his D.L. and all of the sudden he's interested in the project and helping out!

 

[stutaeng]

Got the transmission yoke u joint installed. I bought this slip yoke because the tranmission came with a bolt-on yoke.

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1...l80_4l85_6l80_transmission_slip_yoke_for.html

I was convinced that I needed a conversion u joint, but yesterday that I removed my U joint I realized the dimensions were really the same, after measuring with some dial calipers.

So I bought a Precision U Joint 534G from my local parts store, which is a factory replacement part. What I gathered is that this U joint is called GM 3R (also called the Saginaw S44.)

The bad part is my center bearing support is really loose, so I got to replace that as well.

Based on LT's Ugly Truck project, no driveshaft shortening is necessary... hopefully that's my case as well.

My nephew has a 90 ECSB 1500 that he swapped a TH400, among other hot rod stuff, and he told me his had to get shortened...not sure what's the difference, I thought the TH400s were actually shorter than the 4L80s. His is lowered, maybe that's why?

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[stutaeng]

Got my driveshaft installed! I don't have a shop press and cutting out that center support bearing was such a paint in the butt. But was able to replace it.

The center support bearing bracket has slotted holes. I made a mark on the transmission yoke 3/4" away after bottoming out, per the instructions. When I installed the driveshaft I was pretty close to being centered on the slots. So no shortening!

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[stutaeng]

Update: truck moves forward and backs up! Drove in the backyard for a bit. I put on the grill and headlights.

What had me stumped was that when I put the lever in Park, tranmission would actually not get into Park. Had to go underneath and manually shift it into Park so it would start. I found a YT video and there's a little adjustment mechanism... problem solved!

Taking her for a spin tomorrow morning!

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[stutaeng]

Still some electrical gremlins to fix. Speedo, fuel, and tach are not working. And need to get a hood replaced and painted...had a little mishap before I started on the project.

Drove it around today running errands. I don't normally drive like I stole it, but I made a little exemption today, LOL. I like it! The transmission shifts...like a 4L80e...I love that little whine on first gear!

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[1997]

nice work.
tires look like they have tread? what's with that?
its a 4L80

 

[stutaeng]

No real update. I changed the BCM, as that got fried. Got interior lights back working.

I bought a 14 Bolt FF with 4.10s/G80 for a whopping $180. I'm going to see how I can upgrade to a 4 or 5 leaf pack on the rear. The GMT 800 weak 3 leafs suck!

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[stutaeng]

I went back to track my receipts and did a bit of cost analysis thus far. This may be helpful if anyone if thinking about doing a swap themselves. GMT400 is going to be a bit higher due to the cost of engine offset brackets and depending on what you do about fuel guages. But shopping around and avoiding opening an engine (assuming engine good of course) goes a long way to keep costs down. Some costs only apply only if doing the transmission swap, and others won't probably apply (like radiator.) I didn't add other stuff like fluids, brake cleaner, etc. but you get the idea.

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I hope it helps someone.

 

[stutaeng]

Well guys, I've got some bad news. A few weeks ago I lost all gears backing up from my house. Nothing. After I let the truck sit for a few hours, I had gears momentarily, then same thing, nothing.

Last week I got a transmission pressure guage and when I started the engine I had about 60 psi, then dropped to 0 after a few seconds. I couldn't visualize why it was doing that. So I finally pulled the pan and found a piece of Zipwall tape floating in there there! Definitely my tape! I don't know how it got in there, but it got sucked by the filter suction and that's why pressure was dropping. Unfortunately, the transmission burned up. Burnt smell in the fluid and a lot of clutch material in the pan. She's toast.

A while ago I had bought an extra tranny pretty cheap, thinking I may want to take the challenge and learn how to rebuild them. I think that time is now, LOL. Probably will swap the extra one and try to rebuild this one, not sure yet.

I've got a rebuild kit on the way, as well as the Transgo HD-2 and the actuator valve kit. There goes my budget build down the drain!

Stay tuned.

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[df2x4]

That sucks, sorry to hear it.

Transgo HD-2

You probably already know this, but just FYI there is a valve body relief mod that's recommended in the HD2 kit which has been found to do more harm than good. Better explanation here:

https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/everything-ls/4l80e-info

The rest of the kit is fine, I would just avoid that one specific mod.