'99 Silverado 4.3 to 5.3 Swap with 4L80e bonus

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stutaeng

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I was messing around with this thing yesterday and today. I ground the pinion bearings inside diameter with a die grinder and a stone wheel as set-up bearings. However, I could not get the carrier back inside the case!

I made this homebrew DIY case spreader out out of square steel stock and threaded rod and I was finally able to get the thing back in there, but still struggled a bit. Am I missing something here?

I used the original pinion shim which measured 165 thousands. I also haven't installed the new pinion bearing races (just bought some brass punches today.

I measured about 9 thousands of initial backlash, so it seems kinda close.

My in-lb beam style torque wrench arrived today in the mail this evening, so I think tomorrow I can keep messing with it.
 

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stutaeng

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I got the new pinion bearing races in and used a slightly thinner shim pack. Backlash was kinda tight at 5 thousands. I decided to run a pattern, but the coast pattern was too close to the center. Didn't look right.

So I took it apart and went back to the original shim. Backlash is now around 8 thousands. I think the pattern looks good now (last 2 pics.)

Middle photo is DIY case spreader. I read putting the carrier in the freezer also works...
 

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stutaeng

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I pressed the new large bearing on the pinion. I watched this classroom video on regearing a 10 bolt. It has really good information on theory.
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I have two questions:

1. Establishing pinion bearing preload needs to be done with gear oil on the bearings and without the pinion seal. Then you remove the pinion nut again and install the seal? How to you ensure you don't compress the crush sleeve further? Or don't install tight enough?

Maybe I'll look into doing the crush sleeve eliminator? For the fact that you can replace the yoke or seal in the future without messing with preload again seems worth the $60 or so they sell the kits for.

2. Carrier side bearing preload I don't think I have to mess with, right? I didn't replace the carrier and the factory cast iron shims were kept in their respective place.

I've been swamped at work. Hope to work on it this week.
 
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stutaeng

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Ok, just installed the pinion nut. I hit it with the cordless impact until the nut wouldn't turn anymore. I only had very little preload, maybe less than 5 in-lb.

I was about the break out the pneumatic impact and decided to hit it again briefly with the cordless. Then I felt a good amount of resistance. I thought I was screwed, but preload measured out 18 in-lb. Spec is 15-22 in-lb. I guess I got lucky.
 

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stutaeng

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I think I'm pretty much done with the regearing. When I was taking out the carrier by sticking a wrench on the ring gear bolts and turning the yoke to force the carrier out, I must have turned it the wrong way. The ring gear caught the magnet on the bottom of the case (much less clearance there) and broke it. So I have to replace that magnet.

I noticed that on the older 14 bolt 9.5", the carrier had the little turning rings to set preload, much like the bigger brother axles. This one doesn't have that.

It's nice that the diff cover has a reusable gasket.

I had bought some 2500HD leaf springs to upgrade over the 3 leaf that the 1500s come with. I forgot how heavy these darn things are! Geez!

Maybe I can attempt the swap next weekend. This weekend is woodworking weekend.
 

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stutaeng

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I got my magnet via Amazon and I "installed" it...hey, that's progress, right? :D

Are these magnets typical on GM axles? The drain plug on the cover also has another magnet. Note that the magnet is at bottom of the case. I have had the differential backwards all this time on my engine hoist/jerry-rig bench contraption.

I spent most of day cooking. ... "some" woodworking.
 

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stutaeng

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It's been a while. I haven't worked on this thing (but truck gets used on-and-off...)

Today I decided to take apart those leaf springs. It looks like most wear pads are missing or worn out. I just ordered some replacement pads from Beattie Spring after watching a guy on YT rebuild some springs for a square body truck. The guy said to mark them because they are not symmetrical...I didn't do that...

How do I actually remove the longer leafs? I removed that really thick leaf and one of the middle leafs, but can't get the longest ones out. Am I supposed to bend those little bracket ears off? Or am I missing something?
 

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stutaeng

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Well, ONE of the leaf springs is done.:rolleyes:

The kids are out of school, so the old girl is back to being a daily for the summer. I've actually put about 3k miles on her since the swap...not bad...:)
 

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