98 suburban slip yoke help!

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Schurkey

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The yoke and shaft are orginal from factory. As far as the yoke, I was looking for a gm nickel one to replace the current yoke. I appreciate the links. I'll look into it. I was hoping for greaseable joints. You don't think I could have 1330 style?
I think you need to measure as previously posted. You've never told us what the width of the joint is, just the cap diameter. A 1.063 cap (closest match to your 1.066 caliper measurement) could be a 1330-, a 1310-, or a 1210-series U-joint, and only then if all four are the same.

GM has been notorious for using 3R joints, but yours are smaller.

Since OP's truck is a lifted 2wd, that might account for the "extra" rusty part(that's not engaged in the transmission tailshaft housing)? My Burb has the same transmission and rear axle, and last time I looked at it, front yoke was in the "normal" amount. My Burb is stock height though....
THAT explains why the driveshaft is too damn short.

How do you know it's lifted? He hasn't mentioned that in this thread.
 

Schurkey

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WHY do you need a new yoke? As said...looks to me like you need a longer driveshaft.

The yoke and shaft are orginal from factory. As far as the yoke, I was looking for a gm nickel one to replace the current yoke.
You still haven't explained why you need a new yoke. And I don't know what a "nickel" yoke is.

I was hoping for greaseable joints.
Non-greaseable joints are somewhat stronger, AND you don't have to feel guilty about not crawling under and greasing them at each oil-change.

The original non-greaseable joints go 100--200 thousand miles.

But what's important here is that you buy the special joints with coated caps, and for my 1350, all I could find was the greaseable kind. I cleaned-out the factory grease, filled the joint with my usual Moly-fortified chassis grease, and I have no plans to dick with it again.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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I think you need to measure as previously posted. You've never told us what the width of the joint is, just the cap diameter. A 1.063 cap (closest match to your 1.066 caliper measurement) could be a 1330-, a 1310-, or a 1210-series U-joint, and only then if all four are the same.

GM has been notorious for using 3R joints, but yours are smaller.


THAT explains why the driveshaft is too damn short.

How do you know it's lifted? He hasn't mentioned that in this thread.
I've seen his Burb....
 

SUBURBAN5

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You still haven't explained why you need a new yoke. And I don't know what a "nickel" yoke is.
Maybe one of the dumbest excuses I have but I'm trying to get a new yoke to replace my original yoke since it's original and has 505k miles on it. Plus I'm gonna take your advice and get a new longer driveshaft made. Everything else on the truck has been replaced or will be replaced soon. I've been noticing a vibration over the years getting worse and worse on the highway.
As far as the famous clunk. It's also been getting worse. Somebody on a previous post/thread mentioned the nickel coated yokes were better for the "CLUNCKING" issue. I didn't know that about the u joints. I'll definitely keep that in mind. I normally grease the entire truck after every oil change so I'm not too worried. But quality is definitely what I want...
How do you know it's lifted? He hasn't mentioned that in this the thread.
X2 she's seen it. 4"rc lift. Forgot to mention that.
 

GoToGuy

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Nickel coating refers to the spline wear condition with movement in and out creating excess clearance an annoyance more than safety issue.
The same " clunk " issue from driveline rear area has also arisen from high mileage ring and pinion wear. As the driveshaft load changes direction when shift from Rear to Drive or Neutral to drive gear selection.
If you have 500,000 plus miles on your truck ( congrats!) , you might want to check ring pinion wear also.
It's life, moving parts do wear over time.
When replacing parts, the replacement should look the same.
The GM foot note denotes with " ( c ) " meaning 2 wheel drive. Or a " ( k ) " meaning 4 wheel drive. And " AWD " is a different animal.
That's " GM speak ".
Good luck!
 

SUBURBAN5

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If you have 500,000 plus miles on your truck ( congrats!) , you might want to check ring pinion wear also.
It's life, moving parts do wear over time.
Thank you. Of coarse that's not the motor and tranny. But anything that has that mileage is going to be replaced as stated. I agree with everything you said, that's why I'm changing what I can. The diff is definitely on the rebuild list. When I got in my accident I changed the axle bearings, seals, and pinion. But I know my ring and internal gears needs work. Shoot even my body bushings is on the to do list. I went ahead and ordered the smaller style yoke. I'll get those measurements shurkey mentioned and keep everybody informed on if there's any bumps along the way.
 

Canadian Rust Bucket

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If you find you have too much grief trying to guess the size, you could pull the driveshaft and take it to a local shop. My u-joints were completely shot and seized into the aluminum; I had the local driveline place make me a new shaft to go with the stock yoke, and they replaced all the u-joints. It was only ~$500 if I remember correctly.
 

SUBURBAN5

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If you find you have too much grief trying to guess the size, you could pull the driveshaft and take it to a local shop. My u-joints were completely shot and seized into the aluminum; I had the local driveline place make me a new shaft to go with the stock yoke, and they replaced all the u-joints. It was only ~$500 if I remember correctly.
If that happens I'll be sure to do that.. this is my daily driver though, makes it kind of hard to take apart and get stuff done lol
 

xXxPARAGONxXx

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Do these numbers mean anything I can use?
No, that's the casting number for the weld yoke. It is not the part number for the entire slip yoke assembly. The weld yoke is welded onto the slip shaft at the factory, and they are then shipped to distributors as complete assemblies.
 
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