98 K2500 Suburban won't stay running.

[someotherguy]

Just getting the correct lock cylinder installed or the resistor trick still requires the evo/passlock module to function correctly (probably does / but who knows until you try).

This ^^^ the #1 guaranteed problem at the moment is the incompatible cylinder in the column. If you get one for a 98+ so it has the "chip" in the cylinder, then you can do the relearn process mattillac described earlier - and if the Passlock system is otherwise functional, it will work. If it doesn't, then you can explore other options like having it tuned out of the PCM.

Richard

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

Okay, so I took the key cylinder out of my other 98+ suburban, and put it in this one. I did the relearn trick 3 times, and still nothing.
Attempted start, waited 10 minutes, shut off, attempted start, waited 10 minutes, shut off, attempted start, waited 10 minutes, and still doing what it was doing before.
I watched the security light this time. When I turn the key to the on position. It comes on solid for about 3-5 seconds as all the dash lights come on and go off, then it goes out. Then after I start it and it shuts off, it flashes for a couple seconds then goes out again.
Is that normal?
And should I go buy a new key from the parts store, incase this one is defective?

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

Then those aren't the VIN and title to that truck. 99 was the last year of the 400 Burbs, has nothing to do with the trim level.

I looked up the vin on my bill of sale and checked it to the one on the dash again, and they both came back as 2001, again. Then I thought about what you said, and thought looked a little dirty, so I took a rag and cleaned it, and it turns out the digit for the year wasnt a 1 (2001), it was a T (1996). So that burb is a 96.
Thanks for the tip. Now I gotta call up the auction house and request another bill of sale and maybe this time they'll be able to find the title.

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

Okay, so I took the key cylinder out of my other 98+ suburban, and put it in this one. I did the relearn trick 3 times, and still nothing.
Attempted start, waited 10 minutes, shut off, attempted start, waited 10 minutes, shut off, attempted start, waited 10 minutes, and still doing what it was doing before.
I watched the security light this time. When I turn the key to the on position. It comes on solid for about 3-5 seconds as all the dash lights come on and go off, then it goes out. Then after I start it and it shuts off, it flashes for a couple seconds then goes out again.
Is that normal?
And should I go buy a new key from the parts store, incase this one is defective?

Okay, so I just found out that that issue was caused by the key again. The truck I took it out of was a 96 (look at previous message). So I'll just get a new key and see from there.

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

Went out and bought a new key today, specific to a 98. $49 bucks, ouch.
But, it fixed it! Put it in, put the battery back in, and started it, and it stayed running. Yaaay!
Runs really nice and smooth, I'm happy, seems like a good engine. Starts up on a dime, it's great.
Did noticed it blows steam like a train though, and it ate all the coolant I put in it. Obviously needs a head gasket. The oil is staying clean and clear though, so it seems like it's going straight from a coolant passage to the cylinder. Gonna have to fix that.
Put it in gear and putted around the yard though. It moves, but its sluggish. I topped off the fluids, and it seems to ne moving okay, but it acts as if it's in 4low. I put it from 4low, to 2hi, and back and forth a few times, and it acts the same in both.
Project for another day and another thread.
Thank you all for your help, it runs now, I'm happy.