98 Crew Cab 454 SAs

[KevinF]

Time to start gathering parts to put a D60 under my 98 crew cab big block truck. Came across a couple threads (Carolina99Hoe) but if anyone has any other resources feel free to point me in the right direction. I'd like to keep it low as possible.

I already have the front suspension cut out, I sold the pro comp lift off the truck for a good portion of what I had into it. The truck has a welding deck and DRW 14b now. I might put in a sterling rear, might put in a dana 80 DRW or just keep the 14b. If I keep the 14b then the front 60 would need drilled for 8x6.5 which isn't too bad.

Not much of a start, but the damaged front bodyparts are off and the IFS lift garbage is removed. Its sitting awaiting its time to come up in the qeue but I've got some things in front of it yet so don't expect progress for a while.

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[Pighuntin]

The hardest part of this is part gathering. Finding the right parts at the right price. If money is no object, the sky is the limit. If you are balling on a budget, then its a tedious task. Its taken me nearly 7 years from planning to part gathering to starting the build. My build is a D50 and Sterling 10.5 from a 1999 F350. Granted the D50 is not the most desirable front diff for a swap. It will be plenty for me and my needs. I am opting for leaf springs for the front instead of coils mainly due to the death wobble that is primarily associated with linked front ends. The more you can build yourself, the cheaper you can build it. But it will cost you your time. The tradeoff.

Other things is if you want to upgrade the drive line. Transmission, transfer case, driveshafts. My build is a 2WD truck going 4WD. So I would either need a longer shaft for the 700R4 in my truck to accommodate a transfer case or pick an entirely new transmission. I am opting for the NV4500 GM variant. Only mod is the rear lock nut. Since I will not be running a diesel, I do not foresee the nut backing off due to lugging. I am matching the transmission with a Borg Warner 44-70 transfer case thats been freshly rebuilt. Since I am gonna need new custom driveshafts, I will have no choice but to get them made once I know my measurements.

While doing my build, the only issue I had with the front was the shackle angle and how to properly set it up. Was no big deal once explained to me. The other issue I had was the rear leaf springs and how to bring them down low enough without compromising angles and integrity. I believe I have a solid solution and just waiting for materials at this moment. The rest is normal GM bolt in stuff and with the fun task of removing a dash for a few things, this will be a straight forward build.

A few things I know I need to look into but isnt hard is my master cylinder system. I would like to eliminate my vacuum booster and go hydroboost. I know tons of GMs that are disc brake all the way around, but need to see which would be best matched with those monster Ford calipers.

The vehicle is automatic but I am going standard. This in itself is no problem as it with the "problem". The original hydraulic line is nylon. While I have never seen one really fail, I know they are good. But for the sake of looks, I am wondering what other materials I can make the line out of. Again, not a problem, just thinking of something different just in case.

The shocks. Since I am not building a hardcore bogger or crawler, its just a matter of measuring the bound and rebound then deciding if I want to go KYB, Rancho, Bilstien or whatever. But these arent really essential to the build as its going on right now. These are the details and personal taste things.

In the end, I would suggest building it for how you like and what you will be primarily using the truck for. Plenty of folks either in the process or done with theirs to point you in the right direction.

 

[CarolinaOBS]

Time to start gathering parts to put a D60 under my 98 crew cab big block truck. Came across a couple threads (Carolina99Hoe) but if anyone has any other resources feel free to point me in the right direction. I'd like to keep it low as possible.

I already have the front suspension cut out, I sold the pro comp lift off the truck for a good portion of what I had into it. The truck has a welding deck and DRW 14b now. I might put in a sterling rear, might put in a dana 80 DRW or just keep the 14b. If I keep the 14b then the front 60 would need drilled for 8x6.5 which isn't too bad.

Not much of a start, but the damaged front bodyparts are off and the IFS lift garbage is removed. Its sitting awaiting its time to come up in the qeue but I've got some things in front of it yet so don't expect progress for a while.

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Ready to see this one rolling! Love the drw trucks and the welding deck is just bad ass. Drilling hubs is not that bad if you have a mill or drill press. Did mine on a 200 dollars drill press and came out perfect.

 

[Sparkysikes]

SUB'D

 

[KevinF]

The hardest part of this is part gathering. Finding the right parts at the right price.

I bought an 07 F350 as a parts truck once before. I made out really well after I kept what I wanted and sold all the other odds and ends. It was probably the most profitable vehicle I've ever parted out and it all went really quick. My good friend has probably 10 superduties in his yard from 99-08 ish so any odds and ends will be there too.

death wobble that is primarily associated with linked front ends.

Fords aren't bad for it although buddy above says his leaf sprung 1 ton handles better than his coil 3/4 ton.

The more you can build yourself, the cheaper you can build it.

I'm not a stranger to building it but sometimes things like trusses and tabs are easier to buy. Its a tradeoff like you said. I just swapped a 79 GMC7000 body onto a dt466 IH 4700 frame. Before that I did a SAS toyota with dual cases and lockers.

Other things is if you want to upgrade the drive line.
I will keep it stock, 4l80e. Had good luck with the Borg Warner and 241 tcases.

Only mod is the rear lock nut. Since I will not be running a diesel, I do not foresee the nut backing off due to lugging.
Chevs also got a harmonic damper of sorts on the shaft that the cummins didn't get. Do a lock nut and forget about it. Won't give you issues. Those cummins guys just lug their engines to make what they think are cool noises.


A few things I know I need to look into but isnt hard is my master cylinder system. I would like to eliminate my vacuum booster and go hydroboost. I know tons of GMs that are disc brake all the way around, but need to see which would be best matched with those monster Ford calipers.
I did hydroboost from a GMT800 into my GMT400 K2500 LM7 truck. Used a proportioning valve from an ~05 GM 1500 SUV. Really easy swap and made a huge difference. I removed the ABS pump at the same time.


The shocks.
Bilsteins rock.

In the end, I would suggest building it for how you like and what you will be primarily using the truck for. Plenty of folks either in the process or done with theirs to point you in the right direction.
I'm only doing it because I like the trucks... I have a 97 CCLB 454 4500 4x4, this 98 CCLB dually 454 auto, and a 99 loaded CCSB 454 auto 4x4.. My 98 extended cab is starting to get rusty and I don't drive the 99 in the winter. Don't want to part the 98 out because despite the front damage its too clean to scrap.

 

[KevinF]

Ready to see this one rolling! Love the drw trucks and the welding deck is just bad ass. Drilling hubs is not that bad if you have a mill or drill press. Did mine on a 200 dollars drill press and came out perfect.

So would it be bad if I ditched the welding deck and the DRW axle? lol
Deck needs partial rebuild due to rust and I don't have a lot of use for it. My engine drive welder is a Big 40 so it wouldn't really fit on this little deck, more tailored to a 305g sized welder. I don't really need a DRW pickup since I've got a 3 ton that will do the heavy lifting in terms of trailer pulling. I might still leave it DRW just for the hell of it but not sure.

 

[Biggershaft96]

Man that 5.3 swap truck seems to do more heavy towing than 99% of the diesels on social media lol. In for this one

 

[CarolinaOBS]

So would it be bad if I ditched the welding deck and the DRW axle? lol
Deck needs partial rebuild due to rust and I don't have a lot of use for it. My engine drive welder is a Big 40 so it wouldn't really fit on this little deck, more tailored to a 305g sized welder. I don't really need a DRW pickup since I've got a 3 ton that will do the heavy lifting in terms of trailer pulling. I might still leave it DRW just for the hell of it but not sure.

Rust is a shame.... I would say keep it drw but then again paying for 6 tires for no other reason than being cool. Well that’s up to you haha.

Just a FYI I thought of, you mentioned keeping the lift as small as possible. On the 1 and 3/4 ton 2wd frame I think you need atleast 10” lift up front for the super Dana 60 without notching the frame (I’m building mine based on 12” lift and still and going to notch). If you run something like 6” you might be able to get away with 4” of travel to bump stops with allot of frame cutting and boxing. Big pumpkin under there needs a box out on the crossmember. Even being a high pinion I ran into this issue.

 

[Sparkysikes]

I like drw for the stability both in hauling ass and hauling loads. But if off roading I'd take lockers and a srw set up

 

[Sparkysikes]

I like drw for the stability both in hauling ass and hauling loads. But if off roading I'd take lockers and a srw set up