97 K3500 CC 454 project

[Works4truckparts88]

So, more data today. Compression check came back at 115-120, cold, across the board. Lower than I'd like but I don't think enough to cause the issue I'm having. Being as they are all even, did not do a leak down. It does have 230k on the clock so I know it will need attention sooner than later. For now I think the base engine is ok. Anybody know an actual spec for this, stock? Best info I found was "within 10% and over 100PSI" lol
I hooked up a test light and found cylinder #7 is not getting consistent spark, very erratic.
Next move is to pull plenum, check injectors, and check distributor and cap.

 

[Dravec]

Replace the injectors. Odds are they are the original green body fat injectors that leak. Total junk. Mine have started leaking so bad that my idle has gotten rough. FiveO Motorsports has Bosch 4 hole direct replacement upgrade injectors for $439 with a 3 year warranty. That's what I plan to go with.

https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/bosch-oem-454-j-code-884-black-knight/

 

[Sparkysikes]

Sounds like good ole buy a old truck tune everything up time

 

[Carlaisle]

Swap that plug wire with a known good one and retest. If the problem moves, you have a dead/dying plug wire. If you invest the effort to gain access to the injectors and they are original, just replace them. This will likely solve several other problems at the same time.

 

[Works4truckparts88]

So dug in and pulled the plenum, checked injectors with key on and system pressurized they are certainly leaking! I think the lower gaskets were leaking to the lifter valley side too. Pulled the distributor and the gear shows normal wear but I found an aluminum body unit for a good price so I'll throw that in. When I pulled the wires from the cap, they disintegrated lol
So I have a dist, wires, plugs, new FPR, upper and lower intake seals, oil and filter ordered and will be ordering the Bosch injectors soon.

 

[Works4truckparts88]

Alright finally getting back around to it. Been busy with other things. Starting a new job next month and been focusing more on weight training. Took time off after the last competition and since I qualified for a big one in September, it's time to get things together.
I ordered all my parts, got the lower intake out and the seals were shot. Almost had to junk the intake because of the pot metal heater connector. Would NOT come out! But I won eventually lol new FPR, new t-stat, new five-0 injectors...going to have a small "vacation" before the next job, so should be able to get it running soon. Question though; the small clips the retain the injectors on the 7.4, are they necessary? Ive got a few tabs broken off the rail(brittle) and want to avoid a new rail. The ones I did manage to find were $$$. Is there much risk of the injectors popping out if those clips aren't used? Could I get away with bailing wire on the tabs that are broken to locate them? Penny for your thoughts.
After a few storms I noticed the windows were all fogged over and checked it out...got a bad leak into the cab and it's already moldy. Gotta check all the usual spots for water to get in hopefully nothing too bad.

 

[Works4truckparts88]

So I did manage to find a used good fuel rail, complete with clips and injectors. After carefully removing the clips I swapped the FPR and new injectors over. Got everything buttoned up, started and runs fine. Doesn't seem to have any miss, the check engine light hasn't come back yet. Need to replace some pulleys tomorrow and change the oil and should be ready to at least go check the mail.

 

[Works4truckparts88]

Alright new idler and tensioner, new radiator (oil cooler line leak, threads wrecked) and changed the oil. Starts right up! CEL is off, idles much better, sounds better. Drove up and down the driveway and let it warm up, so far decent. Also did replace wires, plugs, and threw a new distributor on it. Found an all aluminum body one for a good price!
Next couple hurdles: major exhaust leaks (like burns to breath), trans oil leak, and engine tick.
Now, the exhaust is butchered. So bad the PO couldn't fit the front driveline. Several welded joints, all of them leaking and aftermarket cats. There's also the rear manifold bolt broke or missing on the driver's side.
The driver's side is also where I hear the tick. It did it before my work, hot, cold, its same and follows RPM up to around 2k where it goes away or I can't hear it over the engine. Sounds great at higher RPM. I've read about the lifters failing including them wiping out the cam but I'm really, really hoping it's just the broken manifold bolt and exhaust leaks causing the tick. Wishful thinking, but still.. Especially since I just had everything apart and would have to go back in to swap lifters/cam.
The trans leak just needs to be cleaned and located, it's not puking while running it's just been soaked and I can't find it.

 

[phatphuck]

More pics brotha. I dig the big late model in black. Was the tires and lift already on it? That is a big plus if so. What components and tire sizes?

 

[Works4truckparts88]

More pics brotha. I dig the big late model in black. Was the tires and lift already on it? That is a big plus if so. What components and tire sizes?

Yea I'm bad about pics especially when I'm in the thick of it lol sorry! I'll upload a few I did manage.
The lift was already there, i think is procomp. Not sure on height maybe 6? Only complaint is the lift blocks out back, planning on a 4" shackle flip to correct that. The tires are 325/65/18 and they rub pretty good. Theyr old I wouldn't trust them on the HWY and I'm not a fan of the rims, but till it's on the road it's a moot point lol