97 K3500 454 Farm Truck Basic Mods

[Schurkey]

I am typically towing anywhere from 5-12k.

2) While I am there, I want to install a CAI. I know there are mixed reviews on this. I am still undecided on what brand, may just stick with K&N.

Waste of time, money, effort, and enthusiasm. Potentially counter-productive. Asking for problems.

3) I plan to do a full exhaust. I am looking at these headers and then plan to let a local shop handle the rest. I am going to remove CATs and go with a dual system flowmaster 20 or so. Including an X-pipe.

No responsible exhaust shop will risk the ten-thousand dollar fine for disabling catalysts. When it was me, I installed a low-restriction aftermarket catalyst. And then there'd be no reason to delete the rear O2 sensors.

Flowmaster mufflers have a big advertising budget, but the performance isn't that great.

I kinda like X-pipes IF (big IF) they're designed right. Too many sellers/fabricators get them very wrong. And it's hard to beat a BIG single-exhaust system.

I was leaning towards long tubes, but everything I am reading says the 4x4 needs to stick with shorties, is this correct?

Far as I know. Clearance problems to the front differential/driveshaft.

I have NO idea why you'd put headers on a tow-pig. They're gonna get hotter'n hell, life-cycle could be shortened. Iron manifolds are your long-term friend. If you just HAVE to have headers, Tri-Y style would be the better design.

4) I do have some questions about the EGR and O2 sensors. From the info I gathered it really doesn't seem that hard to cap the EGR, and I will probably need to do that with new headers. The caps I plan to use I got from this forum below. I am assuming both of these will need to be tuned out to prevent getting and OBII or dash light. Is there any negative affect in running it before it's tuned?

"I" would keep the EGR functional, and of course you have to have at least the front O2 sensors.

5) The last step will be a tune from black bear, I am planning on doing just the traditional tune from the info I have read on their website. I have emailed them waiting on a reply.

Good luck with a mail-order tune.

Any other basic improvements that I have missed?

If you're towing 12K pounds, you'd better spend some time inspecting/repairing/upgrading the chassis--steering, suspension, brakes, trans service perhaps with a shift-kit. Fresh fluids/lube in EVERYTHING--differentials, transfer case, PS, brakes, coolant/radiator. Assure the A/C is working properly and the condenser isn't blocking airflow with folded fins or packed with dirt and sparrows. Fan 'n' fan clutch operation. Aux fan if equipped.

I do, I recently replaced the fuel pump due to it "whining" in hot weather

Did you verify fuel pressure, or are you thinking that "new" means "perfect"?

Yeah, and the fronts. My understanding is they are pre and post CAT, so if I go with the headers I will have to tune out all of them.

Mistake. Gotta keep at least the front O2 sensors.

 

[TN454K3500]

Flowmaster mufflers have a big advertising budget, but the performance isn't that great.

I kinda like X-pipes IF (big IF) they're designed right. Too many sellers/fabricators get them very wrong. And it's hard to beat a BIG single-exhaust system.

What brand muffler would you suggest? I am assuming you would Y-pipe into one system?

I have NO idea why you'd put headers on a tow-pig. They're gonna get hotter'n hell, life-cycle could be shortened. Iron manifolds are your long-term friend. If you just HAVE to have headers, Tri-Y style would be the better design.

Advice appreciated

Good luck with a mail-order tune.

I've read nothing but good reviews on this. Is there a forum or something about NG? I see guys swapping to the 0411 but I don't think what I am trying to do warrants that big of a change. Is there a different route you would suggest to optimize the program?

If you're towing 12K pounds, you'd better spend some time inspecting/repairing/upgrading the chassis--steering, suspension, brakes, trans service perhaps with a shift-kit. Fresh fluids/lube in EVERYTHING--differentials, transfer case, PS, brakes, coolant/radiator. Assure the A/C is working properly and the condenser isn't blocking airflow with folded fins or packed with dirt and sparrows. Fan 'n' fan clutch operation. Aux fan if equipped.

I am in the process of that as well. I am rebuilding the suspension on the front of the truck, all fluids have been replaced (except radiator). The A/C does not cool, I have a leak. If I charge it works, but just leaks out. That's down the list to resolve.

Did you verify fuel pressure, or are you thinking that "new" means "perfect"?

Verified

 

[BeXtreme]

According to another thread I need, "1997-’98 LS1: 28 lb/hr (58 psi) (maro/fbird 98 only) (Use L29 clips?)". I see you went with the 30lb/hr injectors. Did you tune for this or is 2lb/hr minimal enough that no impact really?
https://www.southbayfuelinjectors.c...vette-camaro-firebird-tpi-fuel-injectors.html

Those are an option, but they would need to be tuned also. The factory injectors are about 19lb/hr. The ones you listed are 28lb/hr. The ones I am using are 30lb/hr at 3bar, which makes them about 34lb/hr at the 4 bar fuel pressure used on the L29. I went with those because that's about the minimum size injector I am comfortable running at my horsepower goals with a little bit of room for future improvements.

Thanks for the suggestion. Can you explain what the benefit with putting FPR on the return side is? Is there a forum on this already I can review?

The fuel pressure regulator works by varying the restriction in the system to maintain a set pressure. If you put that restriction before the fuel injectors, you might not be able to get enough volume of flow from the fuel pump at max power outputs. Placing the regulator AFTER the injectors makes sure that the pump can go maximum flow if needed to maintain the pressure to the injectors.