97 454 L29 build plans

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Piratehunter

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They are using permatex steel weld, report it is looking good. Smoothing it out, didn’t have to flycut it. That would have created clearance issues for the bolts. I’ve used jb weld in the past to seal an impact crack in an aluminum oil pan that out lived the rest of the car.
 

Piratehunter

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NV4500, though the clutch looked like it had some good life left, it is all getting upgraded while everything is out. It has an internal slave, CSC. Looks like I need to bench bleed the new one and bolt it in, plug the line back in from the master. is it that easy? Any tricks or tips on this?

will this system gravity bleed down from the master to refresh the entire fluid?

before disassembled some mornings after setting several days the peddle felt soft, but got strong with one or two presses
 

Piratehunter

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Engine back in the truck, not to much trouble. Actually trans and engine mated real good. Gravity flushed the CSC, pedal feels good. JBAs bolted up no issues. Accel ceramic wires, needed to order a 135* wire for #5, #3 went on, but will change it too. 36# injectors in and new FPR hooked up. Clocked the dizzy alignment while still on the engine stand and will reinstall after oil cooler lines installed and priming the engine again. Decided to replace PS pump and lines while I’ve got it all apart, waiting on those parts. Got assigned a higher priority project this week, rerouting the house dryer vent. Hope to be back on the truck by end of week.
 

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Quick note on the Accel ceramic plug boot wires. For the vortec dizzy, they only sell straight or 90* sets that plug into the dizzy. straight boot #5 plug wouldn’t fit with the jba headers, #3 fits but right against it. I got a single 115* ceramic boot/wire cut to fit kit to replace #5. The kit only has dizzy terminals for hei or points dizzy. If your very careful and take your time, you can disassemble the vortec dizzy terminal boot and terminal end, and mate it to the end of the 115* or 135* booted wire. be patient, very small screwdrivers, picks, needle nose pliers, crimp tool, and a hog ring plier were helpful in getting the original wire off the terminal and shaping it to fit back into the terminal and sleeve in the boot. Close to pia, but doable, else you have to buy a full set of 90* wires to get 1 or 2 wires to replace the straight ones that are to tight.
 
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Piratehunter

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another note on the hydroboost power steering & brake system. I replaced the PS pump with one with the EVO bypass and replaced the lines to the brake master cylinder, so needed to flush and bleed the rest of the system. Another close to pia job. Plan on a gallon of fluid to be on the safe side, took three quarts. the best online instructions I found were here, https://www.silveradosierra.com/threads/how-to-flush-hydroboost-system.727439/ used a 3/8" allen head socket on cordless 90* drill to spin the PS pump.
 

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Getting close on completing this. Another thing to check before assembly. The collector flange bolt holes on the jba’s had a bit of weld bead in them. Would have been easier to ream out on the bench than after installed.
 
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