'96 K1500: illuminated buttons in arm rest - what lamps are replacements?

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DennisT

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On my 1996 K1500, the button set in the driver's armrest has the typical controls for window and locks. Inside and underneath those switch sets, there are tiny light bulbs. Than can be accessed when the armrest panel is out. Little twist locks. Hard to even notice unless one is looking for them. I can get them out, but have no idea what to order for replacement lamps. Anyone been through this? Tips? thanks, Dennis
 

bretcopsey

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I ordered one of these 5mm to use in my headlight switch but the base wouldn’t fit so I switched the led bulb into the oem base. Pretty certain one of these bulbs would be correct for the window switches too.

 

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DennisT

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Ahhh. Interesting. Seems we're always playing detective for this stuff. So you reused the twist-loc base, and dropped in the LED. I think I'll order some. My door will be disassembled for a while yet anyway because I'm having a devil of a time getting the door latch rods to work properly with the tings they connect to. Previous owner had been in there screwing things up.
 

DennisT

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First, Bret, looks as if you also have a 1996 GM. I just pulled out the lamps from my armrest switch panel. Two sizes; one blue base and a smaller one gray base. Each with a blue rubber-y, "boot," over the glass for that color. Base of the larger is 3/8" across. Base of the smaller, gray, one is 5/16th. inch across. Both open, so they're bad; I'll bet they are original to the truck. Bad thing is I'm sure these are soldered or crimped in. I get no movement at all trying to get them out of the base. I need to see if I've got an old headlight switch and find out if it is different, as you said that's what you were working on and the lamp was, "replaceable." I'm studying the link/source you so kindly posted, but am yet to be convinced they are compatible. Not only does the base have to twist and fit, it also has to have the right little contacts to engage the circuit board. Sigh. Everything's a challenge. But when something like these little frustrations are solved, and posted on these forums, it is a Blessing!
B
 

bretcopsey

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This is as good a close up I could get of the socket from my headlight switch (gray base). It was a matter of unwinding the two leads that are wrapped/woven into the base then putting the led back in the way the old bulb came out. Definitely took some patience.
The blue base is from a window switch and looks like it should work the same. Interesting that yours are soldered. I recall reading that was a possibility for the gauge cluster bulbs when working on the led swap.
 

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DennisT

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I did find my used, but original GM, headlight switch. Yes, the lamp base in that does appear to interchange with the armrest switch lamps. Slightly shorter bulb glass envelope, but does not appear to interfere. I think I'll take your tip, Bret, and order a couple of those LED replacements and hope I can switch bases as you did. Question......on my headlight switch lamp base, I can wiggle the lamp a little. I'm thinking the bulb has long pigtails, and the bulb is pushed into the base and then the wires are bent around to secure it in place as well as make a, "contact," point. Is that what you found? And did the LED have enough pigtails when you pulled it out of the aftermarket base?
 

DennisT

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Ha !!! Just saw your reply as I hit, "post," with mine. Good photos; match mine. All makes sense. I wonder if the LED's are polarity sensitive? Would be a lot of wire winding/unwinding if I get it wrong. PS: Yes, when I replaced my instrument panel lamps, a few were soldered in; most not. I overcame that by finding a few of the soldered variety in a wrecking yard that still worked.
 

bretcopsey

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I cannot recall specifically that led being polarity sensitive, but I think the whole assembly could be removed and turned 180* without having to go through unwinding the leads to rotate the bulb within the base. Hope it works out for you!
 
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