95C1500's 1995 Silverado "Build" Thread

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95C1500

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Had the 3 ujoints and the center support bearing replaced by Stan Hopkins in Dallas. The lack of a press killed my motivation to do the work myself.

$134 for one u joint, csb, plus labor.
$20 (2) u joints from Rockauto

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95C1500

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Well the connectors plan didn't pan out. This was such a pain in the ass, I just wanted it done. Maybe one day I'll crawl under there and add connectors and such. Everything is soldered, heatshrinked, and wire tied so it's somewhat clean.

Keyless Entry
Prestige APS45C
$40.00 from ebay
~$100 overall including the 3 relays, extra wire, wire cutters, soldering iron, etc...

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95C1500

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-Topped off coolant

-Rotated tires

-Replaced the shocks with Bilstein 4600 shocks. The old ones were from the rough country lift that hasn't been installed in a year and a half. The rears were a little long. Ride is marginally better. Nothing to brag about, but it is a 25 year old truck. It is what it is.

Bilstien 4600 shocks front and rear
Front: BSN-24-016971
Rear: BSN-24-016988
$319.73 from Summit racing - local pick up

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95C1500

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Installed the comp/temp mirror I got from a junkyard about a year ago. I don't even remember how much I paid for it. Probably $20.

Comp isn't right. Probably need to calibrate it myself. Figured it would just "figure it out" after driving around a little bit. After 40 miles, it just isn't happening.

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95C1500

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Replaced the LEDs in the cluster with SBL 194s. Also replaced the headlamp switch bulb (faulty switch, not the bulb), and the two IP bulbs as well. What a difference.

(6) 194-GHP5
(2) 194-CWHP5
(1) NEO4-GHP

$41.74 from superbrightleds

Picture also shows how dim my radio LEDs are compared to the other bulbs. Drives me crazy. Trying to figure out an alternative. Also, took the bulbs out of the HVAC control panel because they would not stay on. Flickered like crazy. Faulty wiring in all 4 sockets in the panel.

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95C1500

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The factory CD player bit the dust. Searched aftermarket radios, considered double din radios. Ultimately, I wanted to keep the stock look so I decided to attempt to add an aux input to my factory radio. So, bought an aux jack, necessary wire, etc only to find out my radio was missing the circuit board with the ribbon connector. So that idea went out the window.
So I started considering factory option radios that would require very little modification required and came across an add for factory radios with bluetooth and aux input in place of the facotry cassette player which I have never once used. Completely refurbished. They had a special rebate going on which was an automatic $22.50 off.
Other than a bulb being burned out (which will be replaced with green LEDs eventually anyway), everything works as it should.
I'll void the warranty when I open it to replace the LEDs so I'm a little hesitant. However, I'll take my chances. We'll see how it holds up.

Also ordered a cd delete pocket. It was cheap and was expecting a factory looking, one piece unit but was surprised when it showed up in two pieces with four screws needing assembly. Does the trick though.

$202.50 with free shipping from 1 Factory Radio on Amazon.
$10.90 with free shipping from custominstallparts on Amazon.

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95C1500

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Had the window tint replaced. The old was the cheap, dyed Lumar tint. 30% in front, 20% rear 3. It was never dark enough. I hated it from the second I picked it up.

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I had 20% front, 5% rear 3 nano film (midgrade stuff).

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It's not exactly legal in Texas, but I'm very happy with it.

Once I get my cracked windshield replaced, I'm going with a layer of... I don't remember what it's called... but it's "10x better than ceramic for keeping heat out" and a 25% strip at the top.

Also pictured are new driver side mirror and new wiper arms (to fix chattering)
 

95C1500

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Started off by trying to figure out why my comp/temp mirror read fine upon start up but would quickly fall off to "-39 F". Swapped a new mirror, swapped multiple sensors. Nothing changed. LEft the sensor bracket unscrewed from its mounting hole and drove it like that for three days now, temperature seems to be working fine. :shrug: The old mirror display would also dim to the point I couldn't even read it at night. New mirror seemed to fix that. Fingers crossed.

Next up, I fixed the dome circuit ignition cut off for the keyless entry system. I rigged up a connector running from the main ignition wire I tapped into for the keyless entry system, for the comp/temp mirror. I didn't get a good connection for the keyless entry side because the interior lights wouldn't shut off when the ignition was turned"ON". That's now fixed.

Tried to figure out my intermittent door lock issue. Every now and then, more frequent recently, the drivers door lock doesn't work. It seems to begin working again after I go to the other side of th truck and hit the passenger lock switch a few times. Might be purely coincidental. Swapped it with a switch I nabbed from the junkyard and that didn't fix the issue. Strangely enough, I was messing with the switch with the bottom of the case off and the locks worked everytime and were solid. So I left the bottom of the case off and put everything back together. Again, might be coincidental but we shall see.

After replacing my fuel pump, the fuel gauge has not worked. I assumed I hadn't made a good ground on the frame rail upon reinstallation. I cleaned and tightened that ground (which was loose) and no change. It began by reading about 3/4 of a tank. Stayed that way for several days. Then I noticed it read half a tank. A few days passed and it read way past full. Like, laying perfectly horizontal. It has been on "E" for the last several weeks. I figure it finally completely gave up. I'm going to ohm out the connector and I expect to see 0 (reading E on the gauge). I'm sure it's the sending unit but I am not wanting to pull the bed or drop the tank again so soon.

In the spirit of grounds, I decided to go around and clean all the grounds in the engine bay. Noticed the ground running from the frame to the back of the head is coated in crap (from an oil leak). Couldn't see an easy way to get to it so I left it for now. It will require attention at some point in the near future, simply for peace of mind.

The next thing I did was try to figure out why I had so much noise in the radio I bought. I can't use the bluetooth or aux input without a ton of background noise. I tried grounding the radio case directly to a solid ground source under the dash. No change. That's the extent of my radio/electrical noise knowledge. The radio (am/fm) is crisp and clear. The first radio had no noise with bluetooth. Aux had noise. They swear there is nothing wrong with their radios they sent me. I really don't know what to do from here. They are sending a second replacement out and if it has noise, I don't know what to do. Probably add a noise filter but I have no knowledge on this issue so it'll require some research.
 

95C1500

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Bought a spare wheel/tire at the junkyard last week. Pulled the 18 year old michellin off and installed a 265/75r15 Cooper Discoverer M+S studabble (cheapest tire we sell in that size. Had to be shipped from Minnesota lol) at work yesterday. Found out my spare tire tube... whatever its called... is slightly bent and the inside is stripped out. It'll be hell getting that tire back down. I'll have to figure something out there. Feels good to have a spare after selling my original 3 years ago (when I went to 6 lug).

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Also replaced the squeaky bent tensioner and idler pulley (because it was cheap and I was right there). Squeak is gone.

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95C1500

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Not much has been happening with the truck lately. School took 90% of my "available" funds and I have yet to recuperate lol.

9/??/2019
Mileage: ?

I did swap out the AC clutch cycle switch, receiver/dryer shrader valve, and evacuated/refilled the system in an effort to get my AC working again. I had it recharged at the beginning of the summer and 3 months later, it was short cycling again (makes it feel like a miss at idle, and the constant clicking on and off drives me insane). I was using my neighbor's 30 year old hand me down manifold gauge set and my pressure were WAY off. I'm talking 90 psi low and 300 psi high. I didn't believe that and the ac worked great. No more short cycling and was blowing about 45*. That only lasted until... last week. Short cycling again an not blowing as cold. I will probably hold off on the AC (seeing as winter is right around the corner) and save up over the winter to replace the entire system. It needs an overhaul.

I drove over to the girlfriend's tonight because her truck wouldn't start. On the way, on a dirt road, a truck spilled out of a blind driveway and I had to hit the brakes hard. The truck felt a little sluggish but I didn't think it was that big of a deal. I planned t adjust them at her house while I was working. Well, figuring out her issue took a few hours and I just didn't feel like messing with mine so I decided to drive home and mess with it tomorrow after work. Truck still felt sluggish and when driving past a wooden fence/building/other car/etc, I could hear a grinding sound.Like shoes dragging on a drum. Tons of grabbing from the rear too. I limped it to my parent's place up the road and decided to leave the truck there and borrow one of their extra vehicles until I have time to mess with it on Wednesday (this seems to be a monthly occurrence :whymewhyme: )

Anyway, if you go through my old build thread, you'll see that drum brakes and I do not get along. Nothing but problems out of mine. I clean an adjust them regularly. They just always seem to fail. If this isn't an easy, cheap fix, I believe it is time to bite the bullet and spend money I don't have on a rear disc kit. It's been a plan for years, it may finally be time to go through with it.

And a picture because threads are boring without pictures
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