'95 Cheyenne

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Cheyenne95

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Finally working on some changes for my dually. Last summer I got the seats switched out. The front vinyl bench was replaced with a pair of factory-ish cloth buckets and console. I've always wanted a console. Best change ever. For the fronts I used the bottom frames from a pair of Burb heated seats married with seat backs from an extended cab Silverado. The seat heaters were junk, so I don't have the heat (yet), but I have the factory switches in the cloth seats and wired in. Rear vinyl bench was replaced with a matching cloth seat with the center armrest. If I can find pics, I'll add them later.

Two weeks back I finally got my new rims (and tires) mounted. The factory 16" rims with the chrome wheel covers have been a thorn in my side forever. Good luck getting to the rear inside wheel valve stems. Impossible. I bought six steel 17" wheels that were used on '08-'10 Chevy duallies and had them powder coated. I didn't want aluminum as I wanted the same rim all the way around. I think they turned out well, but more importantly I can easily get to the rear inner valve stems. First time in 14 years.

Before and after pic. Still working on center caps.

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Cheyenne95

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Right now I'm collecting parts for a front brake upgrade. Going to use GMT800 dually brakes. Rebuilding the front suspension at the same time. Some parts are on order, need to find out the rest.

Here is a question that I'm praying someone can answer. Want to switch to the newer dually hub extensions too. Are the RWD (including vans and buses) and 4x4 hub extensions the exact same? I find them for the vans and buses, but not for the 4x4. Want to get some ordered asap so I have time to clean and paint them.

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Stumpy

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Like the 17" wheels. Been keeping an eye out for some myself, but haven't seen any available yet.
 

Cheyenne95

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Thanks. The old 6.5TD. Took me a year to find this truck as I wanted the crew cab with the dually, diesel, 4x4, and manual. I don't have any production numbers, but it was hard to find.

I looked for the better part of a year for the factory 17" rims. Every once in awhile a set would pop up for sale, but they were never near me. In the end I ordered six Dorman rims. I wanted factory, but settled for aftermarket. I don't know how they compare to factory weight wise, but they are heavy.
 

Cheyenne95

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Thanks.

Another piece of the brake upgrade puzzle I'm trying to figure out is the calipers.

I found ACDelco part numbers (L&R) for front brake calipers for the 9k pound chassis, and another set of part numbers for the 12k pound chassis. Could not find any specs as to what the differences are. I hate ordering parts only to return them, but with no other guidance, this is what I did.

The left 12k caliper arrived today, and I have the calipers off the '05 3/4-ton donor truck (for the spindles, I read they are the same as the 1-ton). The caliper body has slight differences, but nothing obvious. A quick check with a tape measure shows the pistons are slightly larger. Next week when I have more time I'll figure out the exact difference in piston diameter. Piston size is important as it needs to match the master cylinder volume. If the bigger calipers are not a match to the master cylinder, I'll go with the 9k calipers.

I have the 9k chassis calipers coming, but they are on back order and it will be a few weeks. Hopefully no longer than that as I want to get this job underway.

I need to look at part numbers and see if the 3/4-ton and 9k chassis 1-ton calipers are the same; I believe they are. Need to know if the donor 3/4-ton caliper vs 12k caliper comparison I have in front of me now is apples to apples.

The 12k caliper fits the donor truck caliper bracket seemingly. The new 1-ton brake pads seem to fit the 12k caliper as well.

Other than a larger piston diameter and slight differences in the caliper body, it looks as if the 12k calipers will physically bolt onto the donor caliper brackets.

If anybody has been down this road and has first-hand knowledge, your input is welcomed and appreciated.
 

Cheyenne95

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Found a pair of dually 4x4 hub extensions off an '08 on feebay; ordered them today.

If the new ACDelco hubs ever ship, I'll find out the hard way if they all bolt up.

I might get the donor spindles and caliper mounts blasted and powder coated. If I do, I'll see about getting the hub extensions worked up too. I'm not made of money, I just don't have the time. If I can swing it, I'll farm it out. If not, wire brush on an angle grinder, lots of elbow grease & time, and spray paint. 8)
 

Cheyenne95

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The '08 hub extensions are shorter than my factory '95 hub extensions. IIRC '95 hub extensions are about 4-1/16", and the '08 extensions are 3-13/16". Stacked together with the '05 spindle and old hub, old brake rotor, and '08 hub extension, a rough measurement shows the over-all length is measurable shorter than stock '95 components. This is measuring from the center of the top ball joint out to the face of the hub extension. I'm kicking myself for not writing down the measurements, but IIRC it is about 1.25 inches or such, which is more than I want my front tires tucked in. Ideally I'd keep them exactly where they were originally, but looks like I'll have to give up a little width. With that said, unless I find something else, I'll be keeping my original hub extensions. That 1/4" will come in handy.

The measurement for the stock '95 parts is with everything still on the truck. The '05 & '08 measurement is with everything loosely assembled sitting on the terra workbench. Both with a tape measure. Not the most accurate method, but close enough to get a rough idea.

I'll passively look for a set of factory '95-ish 4x4 hub extensions on the cheap. If I find a pair, I'll look into drilling them to match the NBS hub extensions 16 holes; 8 for the lugs, 8 for an extension to pas through to the hub extension retention nuts. I do not frequently remove the hub extensions, but being able to use a socket & extension to remove them (and more importantly torgue them down) is very appealing to me. I don't intend to replace my truck, so over the next couple of decades worth of brake jobs, it will add up.
 

Cheyenne95

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Of course 13 months after the 12 month warranty ran out, the hydraulic clutch master sprung a leak. I was happy/lucky to limp it home from the gym.

Tired of what parts stores sell now days, I turned to feebay and found a GM original master and slave. I'm also tired of that molded, semi-flexible nylon/plastic hydraulic line. Instead I picked up a pair of Russel brand adapters and a 73" braided brake hose, -3an ends on both the hose and the adapters. I had to wait on parts, and the first hose I ordered (a 52" hose) was too short. Ordered the longer hose and waited for it to arrive.

With parts in-hand, I got the new parts swapped in. Then began the fun process of getting the air out of the line. I've done this once before, so I had an idea of what to expect. It took me three tries, three different days, counting the initial install. Eventually I got it and she is back on the road. Unfortunately she was down for two whole weeks, but thankfully I have a backup vehicle.

Looking at other posts, I see some say they raise the rear of their truck as high as they can to get the last of the air out of the line. Seems the last of it gets trapped between the master reservoir outlet and the where the line attaches to the bottom of it. I didn't want to mess with raising the rear of the truck up, so I did what seemed obvious to me. I unbolted the master from the firewall and clamped it at an angle to the hydroboost lines. That did the trick, getting that master on an angle. The last of the air was able to escape while I worked the slave cylinder from the bottom.

The braided brake hose made routing it down to the slave a million times easier. I don't know about gas powered OSBs with the NV4500, but with the 6.5TD there is no room to get a complete assembly down through there. You have to install the line separate from the slave, or separate from the master if you are going from bottom up. I was able to reuse the clamp that bolts to the bellhousing bolt/stud; it originally secured the factory style molded line in place. To keep the braided brake hose away from the cross-over exhaust pipe I make two simple brackets that bolt under the slave cylinder nuts. One is for the brake line and the other keeps the factory wiring harness away from the exhaust (on my truck the harness was zip tied to the original style metal brake line).

Another long-winded post. Hoping something here will be of benefit to someone else who needs to replace their hydraulic clutch assembly.

Back to the front end rebuild and brake upgrade, still waiting on parts to ship. I have most of them. Looks like I might not get to it until sometime in July now. Plenty of heat by then. Instead of a shade tree mechanic, I'm more of a sweating to death in the concrete driveway kind of mechanic...and I use 'mechanic' loosely.
 
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