JCribb
Old Army truck mechanic
My old 1997 Z71 from 2006 to 2008
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94 Z71
- Thread starter JCribb
- Start date
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JCribb
Old Army truck mechanic
Went parts shopping several times in August and today, and my list of items needed is dwindling. Today I picked up a 97 model manual transmission column, minus a key, but that’s an easy fix, I scored the underhood storage box, and a cover for the junction box.
Last week I picked up a 95 tbi wiring harness, sadly it’s an automatic transmission version, but I think I can make it work. There’s a hell of a lot less wires to deal with than the vortec models.
I have collected various parts for the dash swap since the end of last year, so all that’s really left is the firewall bracket for the 95-98 column. I will be collecting that in the coming days.
Last week I picked up a 95 tbi wiring harness, sadly it’s an automatic transmission version, but I think I can make it work. There’s a hell of a lot less wires to deal with than the vortec models.
I have collected various parts for the dash swap since the end of last year, so all that’s really left is the firewall bracket for the 95-98 column. I will be collecting that in the coming days.
JCribb
Old Army truck mechanic
Wow, it's been a minute....
I have successfully swapped in a 98 model dash, using the correct heater/ac controls. The only thing I didn't change was the column, it's still the original 1994 model. A few reasons why, is 1) I couldn't get the firewall bracket freed up at the salvage yard, 2) what I thought was a 95-96 column turned out to be an 02 model, which was only determined after I looked up the part number.
It's still not 100% yet, because I'm chasing a parking light ground. I have moved it around the yard some, but that's all.
So y'all like pics, here's the goods:
The old dash:
Stripped the old heater crap:
The point of no return, wire cutting:
New heater wiring laid out:
I have successfully swapped in a 98 model dash, using the correct heater/ac controls. The only thing I didn't change was the column, it's still the original 1994 model. A few reasons why, is 1) I couldn't get the firewall bracket freed up at the salvage yard, 2) what I thought was a 95-96 column turned out to be an 02 model, which was only determined after I looked up the part number.
It's still not 100% yet, because I'm chasing a parking light ground. I have moved it around the yard some, but that's all.
So y'all like pics, here's the goods:
The old dash:
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Stripped the old heater crap:
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The point of no return, wire cutting:
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New heater wiring laid out:
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JCribb
Old Army truck mechanic
New dash installed:
New resting place for the computer:
I used old scrap wiring as a limiting strap. I had two different sets of wires with attachment loops, triple tied together and bound up with electrical tape.
All put together with an Escalade cluster:
Dash cover installed to cover the broken dash:
Repainted the shifter cover to match:
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New resting place for the computer:
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I used old scrap wiring as a limiting strap. I had two different sets of wires with attachment loops, triple tied together and bound up with electrical tape.
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All put together with an Escalade cluster:
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Dash cover installed to cover the broken dash:
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Repainted the shifter cover to match:
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Last edited:
JCribb
Old Army truck mechanic
Led dash lights:
Cat powered:
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Cat powered:
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JCribb
Old Army truck mechanic
I did iron out the alternator issue by purchasing a self exciting voltage regulator. By doing this it sets the voltage to 14.2 volts.
I have rerouted the upper radiator hose to a little better location. I still have a pieced together setup, but I'm using an upper hose from a newer Tahoe that has the 5.3 engine. This pulls the hose closer toward the core support, I just haven't taken a picture yet.
The secret to the newer AC controls, is kind of a two part issue. 1) you need all the 96-98 door motors, and 2) the blower motor requires its own power which is pulled from the junction box and uses a maxi-fuse. I acquired a 95 model junction box, but I'm only using a few circuits from it. I used the 96-98 controls, and door motors because the 95 model is a one year only and expensive to obtain new. I got my controls from a 96 Tahoe/Suburban with rear defrost, because I plan on using heated mirrors in the future.
I have rerouted the upper radiator hose to a little better location. I still have a pieced together setup, but I'm using an upper hose from a newer Tahoe that has the 5.3 engine. This pulls the hose closer toward the core support, I just haven't taken a picture yet.
The secret to the newer AC controls, is kind of a two part issue. 1) you need all the 96-98 door motors, and 2) the blower motor requires its own power which is pulled from the junction box and uses a maxi-fuse. I acquired a 95 model junction box, but I'm only using a few circuits from it. I used the 96-98 controls, and door motors because the 95 model is a one year only and expensive to obtain new. I got my controls from a 96 Tahoe/Suburban with rear defrost, because I plan on using heated mirrors in the future.
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JCribb
Old Army truck mechanic
I ironed out a drivers side parking light / turn signal issue, which turned out to be the junction point where all the wires met together, it was pretty corroded. New connection point solved it all.
JCribb
Old Army truck mechanic
Working on changing out the interior pieces from the ugly tan color to gray. I’m also wiring up power bucket seats with lumber support for both sides, and a floor mounted console all from a 95 Tahoe. I’m going to get the gray front seatbelts here shortly, and I will try to get pictures up later today.
JCribb
Old Army truck mechanic
Pics as promised:
These used Tahoe seats are a much better upgrade than the old worn out bench seat, with the added bonus that these don’t smell like sweaty buttholes like the old seats. I chose these seats for the lumbar support, as my lower back has been used and abused over the years and now requires more support for the long drives.
I still need to wire them up and drill a few more holes to properly mount everything to the floor.
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These used Tahoe seats are a much better upgrade than the old worn out bench seat, with the added bonus that these don’t smell like sweaty buttholes like the old seats. I chose these seats for the lumbar support, as my lower back has been used and abused over the years and now requires more support for the long drives.
I still need to wire them up and drill a few more holes to properly mount everything to the floor.
JCribb
Old Army truck mechanic
I got everything bolted in and wired up, but I haven’t tried out the seats for functionality yet.
I’m still looking at correcting something that I did within my dash swap that I don’t like, which was how I wired up the power to my lights.
I’m using the 95 junction box to send power, but I have the box on a kill switch so it wouldn’t drain the battery. When I did this, all my interior lights come on with the lights (dome, and under dash). I honestly assumed that it’s in the light wiring, because that one power strip in the fuse box is ran by the junction box, whereas everything else was hooked up through the factory harness.
Anyone have an idea how to rectify this situation?
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I’m still looking at correcting something that I did within my dash swap that I don’t like, which was how I wired up the power to my lights.
I’m using the 95 junction box to send power, but I have the box on a kill switch so it wouldn’t drain the battery. When I did this, all my interior lights come on with the lights (dome, and under dash). I honestly assumed that it’s in the light wiring, because that one power strip in the fuse box is ran by the junction box, whereas everything else was hooked up through the factory harness.
Anyone have an idea how to rectify this situation?
