92 Truck+Camper Build

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92GMCK2500

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Sooooo, after the bent frame saga i got one of these
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And then grabbed a piece of 2x2"steel SHS and 4" flat bar, fired up the propane torch and bent the sucker back.
 

92GMCK2500

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Oh yeah, then i got these.
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This involved hammering in the airlift supplied C channel into the frame rails and bolting it in place as reinforcement. Shouldn't bend again. At least not in the same spot ;)
 

92GMCK2500

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She's a lot happier, sits level, rides WAYYYY better (smoother, safer), a lot less roll, and is a totally different animal to drive. I love it.

I am running the airlift, load lifter 5000 'ultimate', which includes the internal jounce bump stops. Plumbed individually, lines run to rear license plate screws, looks clean. No on board, i carry a 12V plug in external air compessor on bigger trips. Have it set around 90psi to be back to ride height.

Before:
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After:
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92GMCK2500

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To be honest, since then, i have decreased the bags pressure to around 80-85psi, which is about 1/2"-3/4" below original ride height. This just engages the lower overload on my old 4+1 leaf pack, seems to be more stable on the road, especially at highway speeds.
 

Supercharged111

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To be honest, since then, i have decreased the bags pressure to around 80-85psi, which is about 1/2"-3/4" below original ride height. This just engages the lower overload on my old 4+1 leaf pack, seems to be more stable on the road, especially at highway speeds.

I was going to say that the after pic looked too high. You want the overload engaged for maximum stability.
 

92GMCK2500

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I was going to say that the after pic looked too high. You want the overload engaged for maximum stability.

Yeahhh hey, that's what I'm finding. What's your setup like? Do you fully engage the overload or just a hair engaged?

I would like to upgrade to a 5+1 or 6+1 new leaf pack eventually, to be less bag dependent. Damm, a set of new rear leaf's ain't cheap, shipping kills!
 

92GMCK2500

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Next up: Weight (lbs.)
Once the bags were on and truck was riding level i took it through the weigh station. Here are the numbers for anyone interested. This is loaded with the camper, half gas tank, driver, some gear, full propane, but no water (takes 132L).

Front Axle: 3420
Rear Axle: 5510
GVW: 8770
+ the half of gas tank + water + one adult + full gear + wood =
Estimated GVW: 9000 - 9500
(Depending on the length of trip/amount of gear).

Compared to the truck ratings...:
Front GAWR: 3750
Rear GAWR: 4410
GVWR: 7200

Other useful info:
Max weight capacities as listed in my 1992 Sales Brochure.
Front suspension: 3750
Rear suspension: 4800 (4+1 leaf pack)
Front axle: 3925
Rear axle: 4800 (9.5", 14 bolt, SF, 6-lug)
Wheels: 2400 each x 2 = 4800 (6-lug steelies)
Tires: 3048 each x 2 = 6096 (LT245/75/R16E)

Soooo yeah. Its +/- 1000# over weight at the rear.... bit of a dilemma but cant say I'm surprized. Looks like the load on the rear wheels are over too. Anyone done 8-lug axle at the rear and 6 lug up front? Ive read they are different widths??
 

92GMCK2500

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Next up: Hydroboost Brake Conversion
After hours (days?) of research I pulled the trigger on converting the truck to hydroboost.

Parts used:
Junkyard hydro boost unit and matching brake pedal. Off of a 93 6.5TD K2500 Suburban if i remember right.
All new PS and Hydroboost hoses and fuel line style hose clamps.
New PS pump (HB version w' 2nd return port), for a 3500 with a 5.7 TBI (so i can use the same assessory bracket). No fitment issues.
PS filter, inline, aluminium.
PS cooler (front/grill mount version).
New master cylinder for a 93 6.5TD K2500 Sub w' HB (matches junkyard HB unit)
Brass NPT plug to block intake vacuum port.
HB to firewall gasket.

There are already a good number of 'how-to's' on this so i didnt do a full write up/instructions but here are some thoughts/ideas to share on this swap. Feel free to comment or shoot me a PM if you have any questions.

1. Flush steering gearbox prior unhooking the old return line. I ran it into bucket, cranked engine over while dumping new PS fluid through PS pump. Pour FAST and DONT run engine as you will run the pump dry real quick. I disconnected the coil wire and cranked it in short stinits. Do it with the old pump still on preferably, i used the new pump as i wanted to flush the HB unit. FYI - I did it before installing the new PS cooler and filter to minimize old fluid contaminating new parts.
2. Source a matching HB Unit, pedal and master cylinder if possible. I did this for compatibility and peace of mind.
3. New hoses and GOOD new clamps. Just do it, you won't regret it.
4. Rebuild HB unit before installing when its out of the vehicle. I didn't bc the junker looked in good condition, no leaks and less than 200,000kms on it (thanks 6.5TD). I did clean and paint the outside.
5. Its a good time to upgrade your PS cooling system if you dont have one. Your now doing double duty with your PS fluid, steering AND brake booster. I went with the bigger cooler as Im hauling the camper full time. My factory, small tube style cooler in the frame rail was rust out so into the scrap pile it went.
6. I ran a new pump for the 2nd return port convenience as i didnt want to dick with Tee connections etc. I had read that HB PS pumps put out a higher line pressure, therefore more brake boosting ability. Can anyone confirm this? Im curious to know.

HB Pedal
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Shows HB mounting bolts and push rod installed
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Engine bay shots
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Ill grab some shots of the new PS setup next time I'm out at the truck
 
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