91 suburban still Dead in the water no pulse at injectors

[Ed Hardy]

Anybody out there since the last Post /Thread I don't know. what do you call the stuff. Moving forward;
I've replaced everything from bumper-to-bumper when I say everything I mean everything! Finally broke down and bought a new throttle body with new injectors and sensors. all the bells and whistle's came with this remanufactured reconditioned throttlebody and there's nothing new I know this. Only to have a same and result crank no start. If I wanted to run along beside her while pouring fuel down and throat yes she will run but that's the only way she's going to run if someone manually pours fuel down her gullet. I have spark I have fire I just have no pulse at injector. I can manually pulse her with a test light connected battery positive touching purple wire with White stripe at distributor but that's the only way she pulses. I've spent so much money on a truck Its just unbelievable.! I replaced the brain or ECM with another ECM, used, eBay, same result new fuel pump in the tank knock sensors new distributor four spark control modules two caps and rotors two coils two of almost everything. The crazy thing here it never had the same symptoms twice I would have fuel pressure but no spark then I had Spark but no fuel. I have sent cured both of those I have both at the same time now I have no pulse. To refresh the memories when all of this started and were reading this here's the scenario: I installed multiple gauges and installed a new consul to replace the plastic beer cooler GM console between the seats. Once I completed this I turned the key and she blast off no issues ran for five minutes took a ****. Just as if she had to drop cord of life plugged into her somewhere and someone snatched it loose. Dead! didn't gurgle didn't fart didn't winnie didn't nay nothing just running-Dead! just that quick.She turns over by the key, has no issues there but she will not start. has not run longer than a dose of start fluid or fuel Down her throat. I have stop using the starter fluid cause I know that is not good for her. So instead of using straight starter fluid , I mix up a blend of gasoline a touch of Motor oil and a blast of starting fluid mixed together in a squirt bottle. That mix will at least put some lubrication on the rings. I'm trying not to make this long winded but there's just so much to spell out and help out from getting repeat questions here's the list:
Replacement of the following;
Throttlebody and all sensors attached to it
Injectors came with throttlebody
Distributorx2
cap rotor x2
Spark control moduleX4
Hybrid knock sensor
MSD coilx2
Fuel pump
Temperature sensor at front of manifold
Batteryx4
ECM X2
Ignition switch X2
Keyed switch or barrel
Multifunction switch X2
Fuel injector connectors both
Fuel line from frame to throttlebody replaced with rubber hose or fuel line
Fuel pump relay X2
Oil safety switch X4
Battery cables ground and hot all
Installed pressure gauges at safety switch and back of throttlebody in line
Plugs and wires fine
Retraced everything that I touched re-retraced everything I touched and repaired if necessary/if need be.
Replaced all three and Scott lock with hi end electronics White cap connectors.
Any joint that I had soldered reconnected with White cap connectors
Solder joints were failing turning gray and Green crumble to touch. Nobody can answer that one I've asked.
02 sensor
Added additional frame to sheet-metal grounds for stereo system install. You never can be well grounded enough.
Installed EForce performance chip which tapped into coolant sensor on front of manifold. I've disconnected and reconnected tried both ways no change. This was installed well prior to death.
Have I missed anything?
I have fuel pressure it just won't stand by itself as long as you turn the key or remote starter pressure builds and stays you let off fadeaway.
Have more than adequate oil pressure at safety switch.
We have fire
We have fuel
We have air around me I'm breathing it right now!
Why won't this ***** fire!?!
I've ran 12 V Direct to injectors from newly installed relay switch coming off of keyswitch. Left tales untied leading back to ECM. No fuel pump or fuel prime.
I've ran straight 12v to the purple with white striped wire at ECM.
Tied tails of the red and white wire together leading back to ECM that made the fuel pump kick on. without tying together no fuel pump prime from pump or from fuel pump relay. Tied together both happen again.
Hell she's already dead what more can I do to it to killer even more I ask you!?
I'm just trying to find a combination of twisted wires that’s finally going to work. no one else seems to know the answer. So I beg of you!!
How can I bypass this wonderful ECM everybody seems to love and adore? Call after buying two of everything and my check engine light blinks 12 1212 1212 1212 and the book tells me if there's anything wrong with your truck you need to fix that first before you can use the scanner. You gotta be kidding. (It says it in the front of the book OBD I check it out.)
how can I do it because I know just how expensive it would be to eliminate it altogether. And she has soped up all of my money. I just want the ***** to Run! please assist before I snatch her out of my garage (so I can use it for other means than just providing her with comfort) and lighting fire to her in the driveway.
I can't listen to scanner danner drone on anymore, and I am YouTube ‘Ed out!

 

[yevgenievich]

connectors at the coils? Traced wire harness from ecm connector out to each respective location and checked for shorts? Check for pulse from ecu at the ecu connector?

 

[Ed Hardy]

Only one coil. The third installed if you include original. I used test light to pulse injectors by connecting battery hot and disconnected the four wire connector at the distributor and touching purple with white stripe PIN and received a Strong and positive Pulse through both injectors. after plugging the connector back in, push/hit the button on the remote starter switch and she blasts off for just a moment and then nothing. Business as usual. And does not Pults while cranking or obviously running

 

[Ed Hardy]

Check for shorts ohming out wires from distributor to ECM. Seems how I can't touch the wire at both ends with my leads hi test for shorts by touching one end of the wire and then to the chassis and see if I have a complete circuit and I have found that I do not possess a short. I am not blowing fuses. I was, i fixed that. Steering column knuckle joint pinching wire. That was corrected way back and have just here recently as recent as last week as a matter of fact revisited and replaced multifunction switch just to be double sure and yes self-doubt overwhelms someone is **** as I am.

 

[yevgenievich]

Do you get a pulse going to ecm from the distributor when cranking?

 

[Schurkey]

What an amazingly hard-to-read wall of text.

Engine runs if you manually provide fuel? No mention of verifying all the fuses including the injector fuses. No mention of connecting a scan tool, cranking the engine, and looking for RPM signal from the computer. No RPM signal, no injector pulse.

Your electrical solder joints turn grey and crumble when you touch them? Stop using acid-core (plumbing) flux on electrical solder jobs.

 

[Ed Hardy]

No scanner in the shop do not possess one she will run while I poured down again yes it is not a compression run it is a fire run. Has not started long enough to put any codes on episodes of last one that was on there which was 12 all fuses or not blown those are checked on a regular basis have converted over to breaker point fuses. If they do pop you can just push the button and reset them very clever All is well in the fuse panel. If I had all the knowledge you refer I would not have been scratching my ass and my head for the past year trying to figure out what the heck's wrong with it. You heard right I didn't stutter a year. First she didn't have a spark, fix that she had no fuel, fix that she went back to having no spark. It's been like that and it goes on and on and on. now I have both but I don't have a pulse. You see my aggravation.

 

[Ed Hardy]

What an amazingly hard-to-read wall of text.

Engine runs if you manually provide fuel? No mention of verifying all the fuses including the injector fuses. No mention of connecting a scan tool, cranking the engine, and looking for RPM signal from the computer. No RPM signal, no injector pulse.

Your electrical solder joints turn grey and crumble when you touch them? Stop using acid-core (plumbing) flux on electrical solder jobs.

As far as a soldering goes, I've never used anything but Nokorrode regular paste flux non-acidic and keister solder. No need to wipe clean but I do, knocks the greasiness down. And then I heat shrink right over top of it and seal it. I don't know it is crazy but I'm not using plumbers Flux I'm not sweating the joints under my dash and under my hood with lead in one hand and flux in the other. That's a funny visual rhetoric isn't it?!

 

[Schurkey]

No scanner in the shop do not possess one

You've been dicking with this for a year. Time to get a scan tool. You could learn the scan tool and diagnose the vehicle in much less time than you've got in it already. Not to mention, the savings in mental-health issues and counseling bills.

she will run while I poured down again yes

Runs if you pour gasoline into the throttle body. Got it.

it is not a compression run it is a fire run.

I have no idea what a "compression run" is, nor a "fire run".

Has not started long enough to put any codes on episodes

Similarly, I don't know what "codes on episodes" are.

of last one that was on there which was 12 all fuses or not blown

There's more than 12 fuses.

those are checked on a regular basis have converted over to breaker point fuses.

Do you mean "circuit breakers"? Breaker points were what triggered the ignition coil before electronic ignitions.

If they do pop you can just push the button and reset them very clever All is well in the fuse panel.

OK, all your circuits have power.

The injectors should each have power whenever the key is in "Run" or "Crank", but no power in "Off", "Lock", or "Accessory".

The ECM controls the GROUND side of the injectors. They spray fuel when the ECM grounds each one, and they alternate--Left injector sprays, then right injector sprays, then left injector...until the duty cycle gets long enough that the spraying might overlap.

Point being, are the injectors powered; (which is why I asked about the fuses) and if so, are they being grounded? Several reasons they wouldn't be grounded: The ECM is not getting a crank signal from the pickup coil/ignition module; or the ECM has failed; or the wire harness between ECM and the injectors has failed. It's possible--but REALLY unlikely--that both injectors have failed. But again, you've replaced injectors with no change. So just like the ignition module, almost guaranteed to NOT be the issue.

You have never checked to see that the ECM is getting a crank signal. Thus the need for the scan tool.
You've put several ignition modules in the vehicle. Probably not that. The wire harness between ignition module and ECM is suspect, as is the ECM itself. The wire harness from ECM to injectors is also suspect.

have been scratching my ass and my head for the past year trying to figure out what the heck's wrong with it. You heard right I didn't stutter a year.

Yeah, a year is too long. I get that you're frustrated.

God bless scan tools. What takes all weekend with a multimeter can be done in half-an-hour with a scan tool, and with improved completeness and accuracy.

Trying to diagnose computer-controlled vehicles without a scan tool is two steps away from hopeless.

As far as a soldering goes, I've never used anything but Nokorrode regular paste flux non-acidic and keister solder.

Kester (not "Keister" ) makes acid-core solder. The acid is built right into the solder wire. Make sure that your solder is ROSIN-core, or fluxless.
www.kester.com/products/product/acid-cored-wire

Acid-Cored Wire

Kester Acid-Core is a highly active, inorganic acid type of flux developed for general-purpose soldering applications where a flux-cored solder wire is desirable. Rapid soldering can be accomplished on all common metals except aluminum and manganese. Acid flux is particularly useful for...

www.kester.com

I would really appreciate standard punctuation and sentence structure.

 

[GMTMark]

I agree with getting a scan tool. Heck, you can buy a nice one for half the money you’ve already spent. Another item is the fuel pump. I’ve seen new fuel pumps for these vehicles that never pump the first drop. Also I’ve seen new pumps that run great for about 5 to 10 minutes (that includes AC Delco). That’s about all I can offer at this point.