90W7's --91' K2500 build +5.3/4l60e swap (NEW)

[90W7]

INTRO
8/8/14

*Old thread text messed up*​

This is my 1991 K2500 Scottsdale(6 lug, 14bolt sf with 305(ouch) . This was my first truck that i bought when i was 16 (15 years ago today). The 305 has 189,000 miles on it and going strong and the 700r4 has been rebuilt and replaced a few times. despite owning/buying several trucks over the years Ive always kept my first truck. It was my DD in high-school and has taken me from Alaska to Phoenix for 2 years of tech school and back, from -60F to 120F weather the truck has always been dependable. I wish i had more pictures of it in its prime but here it is sitting on 285/75R16's (Body lift taken off).

This thread will help me to keep track of where the truck started and document all the changes.

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After sitting for several years i decided it was time my make my old truck a priority and do all the things Ive always wanted to do to it.

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A new battery, checked the oil level and it fired right up
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Didn't clean up too bad.

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[90W7]

Initial repairs & notes
10/3/2014​

INTERIOR:

The interior is a warzone. between being painted several times in my high school days, to the racing seats and years of neglect ... I should have never messed with it. (now im fixing it all). The rear seat is gone because i built a table/platform for my sub setup i use to have. The sound system was stolen in phoenix along with my deck and tach. Drivers door is a reproduction from LMC ( Original was damaged so bad around the door handle by the assholes who broke in i had to replace the whole door)

1. Remove and clean carpet
2. Add new padding under carpet (LMC)
3. Remove racing seats + install original seats
4. Install new turn signal lever (GM)
5. Install new wiper motor (junk carquest,*get oem*)

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FRONT END:
I brought the truck into the shop to shake the front end down/inspect everything and make a list of needed repairs and fixed it.
Note: Ball joints have very minor play. Ive replaced the uppers before and the lowers are still the factory riveted in ball joints ...Not bad for 189k miles

1. R&R inner and outer tie-rod ends (Moog)
2. R&R Steering gear box (Napa)

​

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Parked for the winter
12/07/2014

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​

 

[90W7]

Suspension
3/28/15​

Once the snow melted it was time to install my 6" Rough Country lift kit in conjunction withe the Real Lift torsion bar re-locators and new 5+1 leaf springs. Ive always wanted this kit but could only afford a body lift. It was a bit of work but it was actually fun.

Trucks still on the 285/75R16's. Mickey Thompson Classic III's 17" and 35's ( KO2's/equivalent) are what im thinking will be the final combo. I really want 37's but want to avoid another body lift.

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[90W7]

5.3/4L60E Swap
4/6/2015
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Ill slow down here and try to give back information like so many others have taken the time to do so on their threads. Its tough doing the work and documenting it as you go but i took plenty pictures and kept receipts/links to parts. I spent the majority of my summer working overtime to have the extra cash to work on my pickup so i ended up rebuilding the 5.3 and completing the swap in a matter of months. I don't have a garage so all the work was done outside at the mercy of the weather. most of the work was done in 60-70 degree weather however when i fired it up it was in the low 40's and 30's and actually started snowing days after getting it started. Alaska summers are very short unfortunately.

Originally i was kicking around buying a reman 350, 383 crate motor or a L31 with a holley terminator EFI system and while it sounded awesome i didnt think i would ever do a ls swap. My cost was higher due to the fact that i rebuilt my 5.3 then added a cam, headers, upgraded parts etc.. but doing a ls swap can be more cost effective than building an older generation motor.

So here we go..I went to the junk yard to find some trim pieces for my 91 and for the hell of it asked the guy if they had any 5.3's or 6.0's and he said they just got in a wrecked 2005 Silverado with a 5.3 with 110k miles on it.. this got me exited and i went to work and my grabbed tools and my bore scope, came back and inspected the motor as best as i could and told him id take the engine and trans.

So i paid 2k for the 5.3 and 4l60E, if i were in the lower 48 im sure i could have got it for cheaper but it is what it is.
Donor vehicle:

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A few days later i picked up my engine and trans but i had to go back because they forgot the TAC module and some misc things i needed. I also grabbed the E-fans and the DLC connector. Get everything you can because it will cost you hundreds and hundreds more if you have to buy parts such as the MAF sensor,Tac Module,Starter,Alternator, DBW pedal (if applicable)

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Last drive for the 91' with the TBI 305 & 700R4. I grabbed my engine stand and cherry picker from storage, time to go under the knife.

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[90W7]

5.3/4L60E Swap​

Engine tear down:

The engine supposedly only had 110,000 miles on it and ran "great" but i had intended on rebuilding it anyways. All main and rod bearings were in excellent condition and great cross hatching on the cylinder walls. I did find a front cam bearing that wasn't in the best shape.

The engine was striped down to the bare block and taken to the machine shop to be boiled, honed and have new cam bearings installed.

The cylinder heads were also taken to the machine shop to be resurfaced.

The wiring harness was labeled, removed and taken home to be worked on and the 4l60 was set aside (no rebuild plans).

Note: All clearances checked during disassembly, Standard bearings to be ordered.

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[90W7]

5.3/4L60E Swap​

Engine build:

Now the fun part! With everything back from the machine shop and all my parts it was time to build it. I'm going for a mild daily driver build that's geared towards a lifted 4X4 (mild cam)

Pretty straight forward build. The most time consuming part was gaping the piston rings, lapping the valves and clearancing the front cover due to the double roller timing set.

1. 
   
   
   • Fel-pro master gasket kit
   • clevite bearings: main,rod,cam
   • sealed power rings
   • Gm ls7 lifters
   • Gm ls6 valve springs
   • Melling oil pump
   • Double roller timing set
   • New crank pully bolt
   • New Gm lifter trays X4
   • Erson Cam: 210/218 --0.510/0.510 @.050 on a 112 LSA
   • Doug thorley tri-Y headers
   • iridium spark plugs
   • napa plug wires

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[90W7]

5.3/4L60E Swap
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305/700R4 removal:

This part is pretty straight forward, Engine and trans pulled and the TBI wiring harness was left intact for the most part. I didn't want to cut it all out and screw myself if something needed to stay so i just removed all wiring associated to the motor to thin out the trucks original harness( Injectors, MAP, TPS, EGR etc..)

1. Keep the trucks original ECT sensor/wiring for the gauge
2. Keep the trucks original Oil press sending unit/wiring for the gauge
3. Keep the trucks original starting circuit in place. this will function like it always did despite having a new powertrain in place.
4. If using a newer transmission with a prndl/park neutral switch over the trans gear selector shaft you can take it off because its not needed and will be in the way if you have the rod linkage. (these trucks already have a neutral safety switch on the steering column)

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[90W7]

5.3/4L60E Swap
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5.3/4L60E install:

The install couldn't have gone any smoother (doing it all outdoors aside). The engine was set in loosely and held up by the cherry picker while i bolted up the 4l60E. The stock np241c bolted right up to the new 4l60e and all linkage reattaches and fits like it should.

The Dirty dingo slider motor mounts are pretty sweet and made the swap so easy. I just left them loose on the block and pulled the engine/trans back until the transmission sat in the OE location on the trans crossmember. Then just tighten it all down.

http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=359_362&products_id=1367

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[90W7]

5.3/4L60E Swap
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Electrical:

The 5.3 harness was reworked at home during my free time. I also chose a Blueseas split bus fuse block for IGN switch/B+ to the 5.3 harness as well as other circuits/future circuits. A constant duty solenoid feeds the fuse block and (2 four pin) and (1 five pin) relays make up the E-Fan harness with 2 40 amp inline fuses for circuit protection. Autometer # 5284 was used to adapt the original ECT and oil press sensors to the 5.3.

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Initially i wanted the pcm and fuse block on the passenger side but i decided i didn't want to have to shorten the harness in areas and lengthen the TAC Module wires. With that said i did lengthen many wires(alt wires, injector wires, wires going into the cab and wires from the harness to the fuse block). All the unneeded wires removed from the 5.3 harness per http://www.lt1swap.com instructions were re-purposed for any lengthening needed. I also ran the harness behind the intake instead of it coming down in the Alternator/Power steering area and i rotated the injectors in towards the intake and ran the injector wires between the fuel rails and intake to have a cleaner look.

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In place of the tiny tbi radiator i decided to buy a new radiator to match the E-Fans and the new style coolant reservoir . I also found a removable section under the core support to allow more of the radiator to be exposed.

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Cooling system parts:
Napa Radiator: 2819 $150.00
Napa Coolant Reservoir: NOE 6053417 $35.00
Napa Lower Rad Hose: 9070 $22.00
Napa Serp Belt $26.00
Dex Cool $31.00

 

[90W7]

5.3/4L60E Swap
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Fuel system:

The fuel system was pretty straight forward. I used 10ft of Russell pro-flex hose and all Russell -6 AN fittings/quick connects with a Napa 3737 filter/regulator. If i were to do it again i probably would run all new fuel line instead of adapting to the OE hard line with compression fittings. The compression fittings work fine tho. Also pictured are my trans cooler lines i had made locally using good braided steel hose and JIC fittings.

1. Swapped out the stock TBI fuel pump with the new EP381 fuel pump
2. Cut OE hardlines flush with each other a foot or so before the TBI fuel filter

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Fuel system parts:
EP381 fuel pump
Napa 3737 fuel filter/regulator
local sources 3/8 & 5/16 compression fittings
Rus-610025 (straight hose ends) X6
Rus-644123 (3/8 quick connects) X2
Rus-644113 (5/16 quick connect) X1
Rus-640940 (adapter fitting) X1
Rus-632070 (10 ft of proflex -6 hose) X1