89 c2500 light duty 5.3 4l60 swap is done.. kind of

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Tractor joe

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Took me about 7 months.. did all the work myself.. first time messing with a computer controlled engine.. im a carb and diesel guy, tractor and heavy equipment mechanic.

2003 suburban engine and trans with around 240k miles

I paid 650 for the 89, sold the 4.3 and 5 speed manual for 350, and the clutch pedal for 100.. paid 700 for the running and driving 03 suburban and sold all the unneeded parts and shell for almost 1000, including selling the stock suburban cats for 350. I think I have about 700 in parts into the build, minus the two sets and rims and new tires that I paid 650 fir both..

I used the stock suburban driveshaft with a Spicer u joint to bolt it to the 14 bolt, dirty dingo engine mounts and a 300 wiring harness and paid 170 for a vats deleted and mild tuned oe computer off ebay, used a stock 5.3 fuel pump mounted to the factory 89 in tank pump housing.. made all my fuel and trans cooler lines and a stock 350 radiator I bought for my 89 c1500 that I never used.. has Amazon cheap headers, the only ones that would fit without spending 500.. and made my own exhaust from the stock suburban exhaust including the muffler.

It sounds like a stock 5.3 till you get on it.. will spin the passenger tire from first into second.. still waiting for the dmv to send my registration so I've only driven it on the side streets close to the house out in the sticks.. its pretty quick or at least seems like it..

Eventually I'll add a cam and a fancy intake..
 

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Tractor joe

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Well its coming back out.. rear main seal decided to go, and oil pan leaks... going to make the wiring nicer looking while it's out..

Didn't leak at all fir 2 weeks in the suburban driving it around.. figures.. only put 140 miles on it
 

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stutaeng

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I suppose you should consider replacing that torque converter lock-up o-ring since you separated the engine?

Those o-rings flatten out over time and cause issues due to leaks.
 
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0xDEADBEEF

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That's actually dry.. but I definitely see what your saying..

If it's clean and dry it's probably good. This was my C5 with only 43k miles. You couldn't see all that gunk with balancer on, but the entire oil pan was covered in oil and gunk.
 

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Tractor joe

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Got the engine and trans split and new rear main seal and housing gasket? and oil pan gasket on.. the rear main seal was not leaking I don't think.. the plate or housing gasket rubber was very brittle and cracked as I pulled that plate off and there is a oil passage that runs in that plate and inside it was full of oil..

Probably why my cold idle oil pressure went from 45 to around 35 when it started leaking
 

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