88GMCtruck's NV4500 Swap

[88GMCtruck]

Well, the time has come.

As I have collected the parts and done a little bit of work, I figured I'd start to document my progress in swapping my 700R4 out for a NV4500.

What $400 and 3 hours of time got me.

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And all the other stuff that makes the conversion work

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After doing a little more research and figuring out what parts I need, I ordered a bunch of other stuff.

Jegs Flywheel (the original was a big block flywheel)

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Hays Super truck Clutch

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Clutch Fork Ball Stud (left old - right new)

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Flywheel key and Clutch fork bushing

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New input shaft pilot bearing and thrust bearing

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Flywheel dust sheild

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Trans-transfercase gasket.

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Clutch Pedal Bracket

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Cruise control kill switch

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Clutch pedal spring

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New shift tower boot

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And 4 quarts of Amsoil MTG GL-4 fluid.

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[88GMCtruck]

So I started by checking everything out. The NV4500 is a relatively simple transmission, and is a top-loader style. – this means we can pull the top off and take a peek inside.

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Everything looks pretty good inside so far. The only real thing I noticed is the input shaft has a little play in it (which is why I replaced the pilot and thrust bearings for it).

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My NV4500 had a magnet in the bottom center of the case, held in by a little clip. I of course pulled it out to find the normal grey sludge they collect. I also cleaned everything inside and out.

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Also got the bellhousing and clutch fork all cleaned up

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Now I have a transmission temp gauge in my truck already wired to the 700R4. While the NV4500 has no provision for a temperature sender (without buying aftermarket PTO coolers) I wanted to keep it. Upon researching the transmission, I had found that early versions had a drain plug located below the fill plug. I’m only hypothesizing here, but I think it was left out because the lower PTO bolts make an excellent drain by themselves, however the locating in the case still has a thicker walled area where the plug used to be.

So a little help from my friend BV

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away with the drill and tap I went.

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Putting things back together with some ultragrey.

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Next up is a coat of paint on the castiron portion of the case, which will be happening this weekend. Then the truck is getting loaded up and I’m heading home, installing everything next week.

 

[88GMCtruck]

Well, a quick update.

I got the cast portion of the trans painted up black, and spent some more time with the wire wheel and cleaned up the outside of the bellhousing. I also attached the clutch fork to the new ballstud and threw the flywheel dust shield on for ease of transport.

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I also ordered a DEI 689M remote start module for manual transmissions. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WB4NN2/ref=ox_ya_oh_product Basically how it works is when exiting the truck, you remote start it while running, set the parking brake and then lock the doors on the outside. The truck turns off (in neutral obviously) and will be able to remote start unless the sequence is broke (I.E. door opening). I just couldn't give up remote start, since i've had it for over 6 years now.

 

[88GMCtruck]

Well, here is another update. Last night I pulled the drivelines, T-case and crossmembers, then this morning finished pulling the transmission. While I was doing that Dad took and swapped the input shafts between the t-cases and got them back together.

Last of the 700R4 under the truck

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NP241 guts

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NV4500 vs. 700R4. Finally with both out of the truck I could measure and verify the lengths of each. The NV4500 is 1/8" longer than my 700R4.

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With all that out of the way, I got started on the interior. Drilled the holes for the clutch master cylinder. The large center bore is a 1 3/8" diameter (coincedently the same size as my cab light holes).

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Then lots of interior comes out. I cleared a few spots off of the sheetmetal to weld the clutch pedal support in, then bolted the clutch pedal in.

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While I was doing this, Dad put the flywheel and clutch together under the truck.

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A quick poser shot of the NV4500/NP241 combo. Lots of New Venture parts here.

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So, all that is left now is to wire up the clutch pedal misc and put the interior back together, cut a hole in the floor and put the trans in the truck.

Finally got done screwing around with the clutch bracket. I think I had that thing in and out of there 4-5 times now, figuring out what side the wires go on and such. What a PITA. Then I got the hydraulic line routed and bolted the clutch pedal assembly in.

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Then I was off to wiring mania for about the last 5 hours. I had to wire up the clutch cruise control kill, clutch pedal safety start switch, and the backup light switch. I also cleaned up a few other connections while the dash was down. This recent find on ebay was about the most invaluable thing in this entire swap; I don't know how i lived with out it.

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The wiring itself wasn't horrible and didn't take too long; making sure all the wiring was out of the way of the pedal did. Once that was done I also swapped the brake pedal, and put the dash up. Now I have me some pedals.

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The only wiring left now is to hook up the reverse lights plug and my trans temp sensor, but that will happen when the trans is in the truck so I know how long to make them.

 

[88GMCtruck]

We got the trans shift linkage all worked up. For those who have asked how my linkage is, here is the best picture ever: outside of the truck. Basically all that is done is to move the arm over via a longer pivot point. It has a stepped portion to clear the trans as well. Obviously the pass side has to be supported of the trans.

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I got the floor cut for the shifter, as well as an additional hole to make the install MUCH easier. When we too the trans from the parts rig the shift tower was so tall that we kept getting hung up on the trans tunnel, and ended up just pulling the sheetmetal back. I decided then I'd make another hole and build a screw on cover for it, that way the trans can slide right in.

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Then we got the trans on a chunk of wood and strapped it to the floor jack. Don't want 200lbs of cast iron falling on you.

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After it's in.

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While dad put the drivelines and stuff back, I worked on the interior side of things. Once the trans was in place I located the shifter trim ring, drilled the holes and bolted it together. After everything fit, I put the carpet back and started the re-assembly of everything else: Trim, Dash, I/P, seat, etc.

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This is what the interior now looks like with two sticks Notice the new (and much more awkward and annoying) location of the cupholders.

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Then, the test drive. First problem I encountered was the speedo/cruise not working and my brake warning light was stuck on. After about and hour of thinking, switching the speed sensor, etc, I realized the RWAL (rear wheel antilock) and speedo share a fuse. While I was wrestling the wiring around I must have dislodged it...... But yeah, whats a project without a challenge. So after that, on to screwing around in it. Oh it's fun. Way too fun. Trans shifts great, syncros work flawlessly, etc. 1st gear is a beast, particularly in low range. I can't want to go play offroad. I also got it up to freeway speeds, also worked great. It's definatly noticable there is a manual down there, but only if your actually paying attention to it. After driving around for about 45mins the trans was up around 140 degrees if anyone was wondering.

All in all, everything works great, and the swap went very smoothly (no trips to the part store, nothing broken, etc). I've been driving it for about 6 months now and everything works fine. I get about the same fuel mileage. Trans runs about 150 degrees highway, which is good. There is a little gear noise at highway speeds, but i've heard that the non-OEM gear lube may do that. I also had to shim my starter out a little more to quiet it up; there is apparently a different starter for the manual trans, although mine seems to work just fine now.

I bought one of the last pieces, the sound isolator for the shift boot. They PN for the 92-94 style trans was no longer available so I grabbed the 95+ style and cut some of it to fit my shift tower. Basically it's a 1/2" thick foam block that goes under the shift boot. It made a huge difference in the sound comming from the trans area (I could hear road noise and gears quite noticably, which isn't surprising since the shift boot isn't very thick).

 

[Aloicious]

right on. looks good man,

does that cruise control switch mount above the pedal? I need to find that little cruise switch bracket for mine.

 

[88GMCtruck]

Yeah it bolts in with the upper bolts for the pedal mount. When I get back on my computer ill look up the part number in the epc

 

[Aloicious]

that would be great! I've found the switch itself but I could never find that bracket.

 

[88GMCtruck]

Well, bad news. It looks like the bracket was discontinued thus there is no part number for it in the EPC. Sorry.

 

[Aloicious]

blast, thanks for looking though.