'88 dually

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KRS1

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I wonder why they omitted it from the factory? was it because of the size and intended usage of the 1 tons didn't require--

To reduce the amount of sway or body roll as a vehicles weight is shifted from side to side. When a vehicles weight is shifted from the side to side, the sway bar applies the load from one side of the suspension to the other side, keeping the body from swaying or rolling to the side experiencing the most loads.

The purpose of the sway bar is to keep the body of the vehicle level while maintaining traction and control of the vehicle as the weight is shifted from side to side. The transfer of loads through the sway bar can improve the handling of a vehicle.
 

skylark

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Granted, my dually is a cc 4X4 but I have a sway bar. I wouldn't want to run without one.
 

KRS1

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Yes, I don't have one on my drag race car, but I was thinking of getting one for the truck-- I was at the u-Pull yard and there were a few 88-98's 2wheel drive ones..it looks like one from a 1500 or 2500 could work? They seem to be the same diameter..
I think I could grab one it is just removing a crusty one that could be a PITA.. they only want like $10 for it. from this listing it seems like they were all the same fitment (1500's--3500's)

http://www.belltech.com/front-anti-swaybar.html
 

vic_v8

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4 GMT400s later, all of them had sway bar endlinks break (and I never replaced) so I technically never had one, just cranked the bars a hair instead.

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KRS1

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Hey guys, it has been a really cold Jan/Feb...it is finally starting to warm up and I was able to take apart the RH side of the suspension. My plan is to re-use the coil springs but swap sides. I will replace the upper&lower control arm bushings and upper and lower ball joints. I have sand blasted the right side lowers and uppers and will POR them. It looks like the monstrosity of a front disc is toast so I will have to change those out. I am hoping to do a vid for the other side to help people out. It will hopefully explain the steps of removal better!


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KRS1

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Hey guys,
I removed the rest of the front suspension and sandblasted the various components and POR painted it all..It looks great now! I just need to save up some $$ to buy the upper&lower ball-joints, control arm bushings, etc. I am contemplating trying to re-use the coil springs to cut costs but I can get get new ones for around $100..I figure it will be around $600 CDN total for all that stuff..hopefully I can get a tax refund! I am also finding that the parts are getting harder to find for our "old trucks" the local CarQuest etc can't seem to get the Moog upper balljoints..I talked to the CarQuest guy and he mentioned that auto parts stores no longer carry as much old stuff....

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In the meantime, (since $$ is low) I started on the rest of steering system. I removed the steering box and cleaned it up. I then brought it into a local shop and they pressure tested the box as well as tightened it up a bit for free! http://www.ottawa-driveshaft-steering.com/

It turns out that I can simply re-use the box and even the pitman arm is still good! So, that is something less to worry about..

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I also pressure washed the engine bay and will eventually POR paint it all

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So, since $$ is low I will focus on stuff that needs to get done that doesn't cost much. For instance, someone "did me the favor" of destroying the ignition lock in the column..

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I can get another column from the pick your part for around $50. Just wondering? It seems like the 1988-199? model year uses 2 different types of columns? When did they switch over? I have the older style..I was also going to upgrade to a tilt..When I was wandering around the yard I also noticed that the steering shaft is different between the years..

I might also start on the wiring as someone has "messed with it"..I need to get a wiring diagram for the truck..are the GM service manuals still around?

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I am also assuming the brake rotors cannot be re-used..

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I am also working the plastic broken door handle that seems common in these years.. I "splurged" and bought a new handle from Doorman. I figure that anything from the yard will be 17+ years old and crack anyways..
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KRS1

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I might as well update the drive train situation!
When I got the truck it had no engine or trans..it originally came with a TBI 350 and TH-400 trans..over the winter I got the TH-400 rebuilt by Brian Swayne (good local transmission guy) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lOEN8bpHFw. It has a B & M rebuild kit in it but other than that it is a good stock rebuild. We were also able to use a existing stocker converter that is still "tight" and he drained it as well.. Does anyone know how the electric downshift works with a this model year? On my Monte it was pedal actuated switch or I used a Lokar kit..Can I assume this '88 year model truck uses some sort of sensor? Anyways, here is a crappy pic the newly rebuilt TH-400--
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For the engine we are going with a 383 SBC topped off with a set of "done up" 193 TBI heads . My engine builder friend and I have been collecting parts for it. I bought a Scat 383 crank off Kijji..
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I scored a huge deal on the heads. They have a lot of work done to them and some great porting, new valve guides etc..the porting is kind of what this guy did https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMkCV1s5BQ8

I will have some pics of the heads as I am going to his house tomorrow..


We also acquired 4 speed pro 383 pistons (I just need 4 more LOL!) My friend also has some matching rods..We are hoping for around 8-1 compression as this is more "tow friendly"..The TBI 193 heads have smaller chambers so we might need different pistons...

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I might buy a .030 over 4 bolt main 350 as well. It is a 2 piece rear main but it will work with the TBI heads..I am going to use the stock TBI intake but modify with the suggestions from the TBI guy (http://tbichips.com/)..I will be using a "TBI" friendly cam as well but it will likely be a flat tappet as the block is not a roller (I have to use a 2 piece rear main seal block due to crank)...hoping for a lot of good low end torque.


Anyways, keeping at it...
 
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KRS1

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Here are some pics of the TBI 193 heads. We cc'ed one chamber and it was 71.5 cc

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