Philhammerjr
Newbie
Hello all,
This is my first post in a while (ever?) to this forum. I have often found advise on this forum valuable and wanted to post a question for the transmission experts out there.
Truck:
1992 k1500 blazer
5.7 l
700r4
4wd
about 6 months back the front pump seal in my truck blew. A very nice relative of mine pulled the transmission and had his son tear it down and check it out for FREE (I paid for parts of course). they found the clutches still in good condition, replaced the pump(one they had lying around), torque converter(hub was scored) and the separator plate(check ball seats wallowed out but non stuck). He also tore down the valve body and cleaned it. After reinstalling the transmission and refilling th transmission was sticking in second. It would hold second way longer than it was supposed to but all other shifts were good. we decided to just drive it to see if it was just a sticking valve that would work its way out. after about 300 or so miles of driving it did not so I pulled the valvebody myself and found the problem, 2-3 shift valve was too large and getting wedged in its bore. It is likely that some parts got mixed up between ours and another one that was being rebuilt. I went ahead and and bought a sonax rebuilt vb and installed it. When I went to install the filter I noticed that the filter(the correct filter for a 700r4) would not go into the pump all the way. the pump and the filter both had a seal so I pried the seal out of the pump and tried again but the fit seemed to loose so then I tried a different filter (a 4l60e filter) and installed a new seal in the inlet and it seemed to fit good. after clearing up the filter situation, reinstalling the pan and filling with fluid I took it for a test drive and it shifted perfect...for 4 days. after about 3 or 4 days of working perfectly it started slipping with anything more than light throttle. After limping it home as gently as possible..(there were a few hills i had to climb) I got it home and hooked up a gauge and found the pressure not rising as high as it should. neutral with minimum tv it was 75 but maximum it was only 115 no matter what rpm. I can't remember the reverse minimum tv but maximum was around 150 no matter what rpm. thinking the valvebody must have been the issue since it was the only thing that had changed i pulled it and checked the movement of the tv, the tv limit and the line bias valve movement and they all seemed fine. then I noticed the bottom of the boost valve had a protrusion on it unlike what i had seen on 700r4 boost valves. A quick google search confirmed my suspicion..it is a 4l60e boost valve. so my thinking is I should try putting in 700r4 boost valves and a regulator and see if it will work. obviously avoiding pulling the transmission again is a priority for me. should I get a normal size or oversized regulator? what would be a good boost and reverse boost valve size? does this have any chance of fixing it?
thanks for reading my long rambling post. any advise is appreciated.
This is my first post in a while (ever?) to this forum. I have often found advise on this forum valuable and wanted to post a question for the transmission experts out there.
Truck:
1992 k1500 blazer
5.7 l
700r4
4wd
about 6 months back the front pump seal in my truck blew. A very nice relative of mine pulled the transmission and had his son tear it down and check it out for FREE (I paid for parts of course). they found the clutches still in good condition, replaced the pump(one they had lying around), torque converter(hub was scored) and the separator plate(check ball seats wallowed out but non stuck). He also tore down the valve body and cleaned it. After reinstalling the transmission and refilling th transmission was sticking in second. It would hold second way longer than it was supposed to but all other shifts were good. we decided to just drive it to see if it was just a sticking valve that would work its way out. after about 300 or so miles of driving it did not so I pulled the valvebody myself and found the problem, 2-3 shift valve was too large and getting wedged in its bore. It is likely that some parts got mixed up between ours and another one that was being rebuilt. I went ahead and and bought a sonax rebuilt vb and installed it. When I went to install the filter I noticed that the filter(the correct filter for a 700r4) would not go into the pump all the way. the pump and the filter both had a seal so I pried the seal out of the pump and tried again but the fit seemed to loose so then I tried a different filter (a 4l60e filter) and installed a new seal in the inlet and it seemed to fit good. after clearing up the filter situation, reinstalling the pan and filling with fluid I took it for a test drive and it shifted perfect...for 4 days. after about 3 or 4 days of working perfectly it started slipping with anything more than light throttle. After limping it home as gently as possible..(there were a few hills i had to climb) I got it home and hooked up a gauge and found the pressure not rising as high as it should. neutral with minimum tv it was 75 but maximum it was only 115 no matter what rpm. I can't remember the reverse minimum tv but maximum was around 150 no matter what rpm. thinking the valvebody must have been the issue since it was the only thing that had changed i pulled it and checked the movement of the tv, the tv limit and the line bias valve movement and they all seemed fine. then I noticed the bottom of the boost valve had a protrusion on it unlike what i had seen on 700r4 boost valves. A quick google search confirmed my suspicion..it is a 4l60e boost valve. so my thinking is I should try putting in 700r4 boost valves and a regulator and see if it will work. obviously avoiding pulling the transmission again is a priority for me. should I get a normal size or oversized regulator? what would be a good boost and reverse boost valve size? does this have any chance of fixing it?
thanks for reading my long rambling post. any advise is appreciated.
