7.4L Vortec Distributor Suggestions?

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Xipher

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Don't have any issues with my truck at the moment that I know of, but I'm wanting to replace the distributor before a very long trip that'll involve, you know, just totally normal stuff like towing a travel trailer for 7,000 miles over 2 weeks and since I know the factory style 'plastic' distributors can have issues over time with heat and all that, I want to replace the 'unknown' with a 'known'.

So...

What do you get to replace it? There's multiple 'billet' distributors out there, but people seem to claim those have the same issues with shaft play due to cheap bushing? They seem to range from $54 to $200 and they all look exactly the same with a different brand name?

OEM gears for OEM cam shaft so what /is/ the OEM gear type material, etc? I've found so many different answers to this, I'm looking for someone to give something definitive...

Pretty much at the moment I'm looking at this since it looks to be the only 'billet' distributor that isn't just some rebrand with a cast aluminum cap base


Has anyone here used one of those? Is it worth the $250? I just don't ever want to have to so much as look at the distributor again other than cap and rotor after replacing it.

What do I get and why?
 

kennythewelder

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Well, here is my story. I bought an Accell distributor cap several, several, years ago. The screws that cam with it, we're a different thread than the plastic OE base. So of course, I broke off the ears. I ended up at the junkyard and pulled one from a junker. Installed that, but I wasn't finished with Accell. I got a hold of there corporate office. The guy on the phone ended up sending me an Accell distributor in the mail. I installed that, and my truck ran like crap. I ended up, pulling the guts out of one of the OE distributors and installing them in the Accell, using parts from both to make a new distributor. That has been in my truck for a long time with no issues.
 

kennythewelder

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Just a FYI, my truck is a 5.7L Vortec not a 7.4L Vortec.
 

454cid

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I have almost 300K miles on my original distributor. It's had the cap/rotor and wires replaced a couple of times, that's it. The cap has always been AC Delco.

I don't tow a big trailer, Though. Just a utility trailer every so often.
 

Schurkey

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1. The OEM plastic piece-of-crap 7.4L Vortec distributor is not the same as the OEM plastic piece-of-crap Small-Block Vortec distributor. The big-block distributor has a different gear, and a "Thermal Washer" just above the gear. There may or may not be other differences. Point being, the 7.4L distributor has additional heat-shielding for the plastic housing. Apparently, the distributor gear has to be shortened to make room for the "Thermal Washer".

2. None of the above seems to make any difference when scrapping the OEM plastic piece-of-crap distributor for an Aluminum distributor.

3. Most "billet" distributors are NOT "billet", they're a machined casting. The one you've linked-to seems to be a genuine "billet" job, not a crappy Chinese casting.

4. The distributor you've linked-to would be the one I'd buy if I needed one. I expect the OEM gear is melonized, and that's what they're claiming. They must be boring/honing the OEM gear to fit their larger, .500 mainshaft. I know that distributor gears are a common problem area for the Vortec big- and small-blocks; and the V6 too. Thanks for posting that link.

5. Why not pull your OEM distributor out for inspection? If there's nothing wrong with it...put it back in and don't obsess. The three common problems--excessively-worn distributor gear, excessively-worn shaft bushings, and broken screw-tabs on the housing--would be easily seen. You could slap in a new cam sensor, but if the original is still working good, I don't see a lot of point to replacing it. The distributor cap and rotor might be worthwhile replacing, the Vortec caps seem to be a weak point.
 
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Xipher

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Well, here is my story. I bought an Accell distributor cap several, several, years ago. The screws that cam with it, we're a different thread than the plastic OE base. So of course, I broke off the ears. I ended up at the junkyard and pulled one from a junker. Installed that, but I wasn't finished with Accell. I got a hold of there corporate office. The guy on the phone ended up sending me an Accell distributor in the mail. I installed that, and my truck ran like crap. I ended up, pulling the guts out of one of the OE distributors and installing them in the Accell, using parts from both to make a new distributor. That has been in my truck for a long time with no issues.

Sound familliar to a number of others I've read, is part of why I'm leery of some of these cheaper units... I've been using ACDelco ignition components at least though! Just not sure I want to go ACDelco for the distributor given, you know, plastic.

I run the Summit aluminum distributor.


This one has been in the running for me...

I have almost 300K miles on my original distributor. It's had the cap/rotor and wires replaced a couple of times, that's it. The cap has always been AC Delco.

I don't tow a big trailer, Though. Just a utility trailer every so often.

Mainly I'm keen to replace it because I don't have any history on it, I got the truck with 114k on it, had to do a lot of work... trans output seal, water pump, all cooling hoses, radiator, tires, etc, etc, etc, everything I thought "Huh, that common problem could be a problem soon..." ended up being a problem in pretty much the first year of ownership :p I was into the truck nearly what I paid for it, not that I didn't expect problems, but I've learned that a 'suspected' pain point is better to simply replace and improve instead of having an issue far from home.

1. The OEM plastic piece-of-crap 7.4L Vortec distributor is not the same as the OEM plastic piece-of-crap Small-Block Vortec distributor. The big-block distributor has a different gear, and a "Thermal Washer" just above the gear. There may or may not be other differences. Point being, the 7.4L distributor has additional heat-shielding for the plastic housing. Apparently, the distributor gear has to be shortened to make room for the "Thermal Washer".

2. None of the above seems to make any difference when scrapping the OEM plastic piece-of-crap distributor for an Aluminum distributor.

3. Most "billet" distributors are NOT "billet", they're a machined casting. The one you've linked-to seems to be a genuine "billet" job, not a crappy Chinese casting.

4. The distributor you've linked-to would be the one I'd buy if I needed one. I expect the OEM gear is melonized, and that's what they're claiming. They must be boring/honing the OEM gear to fit their larger, .500 mainshaft. I know that distributor gears are a common problem area for the Vortec big- and small-blocks; and the V6 too. Thanks for posting that link.

5. Why not pull your OEM distributor out for inspection? If there's nothing wrong with it...put it back in and don't obsess. The three common problems--excessively-worn distributor gear, excessively-worn shaft bushings, and broken screw-tabs on the housing--would be easily seen. You could slap in a new cam sensor, but if the original is still working good, I don't see a lot of point to replacing it. The distributor cap and rotor might be worthwhile replacing, the Vortec caps seem to be a weak point.

I'm probably going to order that billet one from BET, I'd asked them in like... October of 2020 about it, they did say it was a 'drop in' replacement, explained why they used oilite bushings for the upper bearings instead of rollers/balls (they used to apparently and had failures, popular with boats I guess and they didn't do well in marine environments?), mildly worried being in California and not being able to point to a CARB number for the part... when I take my truck in its always gone over with a /fine/ tooth comb :/

Maybe I should explain a bit more what this is a part of to get some opinions on if I'm taking things too seriously? I'm genuinely a bit uncomfortable with this long trip I'm taking and want to make /SURE/ I don't have any issues during it.

I've got the ACDelco HD rear shocks, my truck being a 98 seems to still have the OEM shocks in the rear and the passenger side unit has a mildly melted plastic cover since its close to the factory exhaust and this truck sees pretty heavy use when its running, I've towed up the donner pass in the summer with my trailer before...

I ordered an Energy Suspensions trans mount and OffRoad Designs Solid Competition engine mounts as well, I haven't seen a lot of talk about these here, but I got them in and they're... beefy, I wanted it a "one and done" for life job replacing these.

New oil cooler lines, do I need to explain this? Its a GM, they all weep at the connections :p , all new ACDelco

Trans lines, all ACDelco, had to buy NOS since they're discontinued :/ I also have an 11"x11"x1.5" Tru-Cool H7B thats already been installed for a while as a trans cooler looped in after the radiator, also already have a PML deep pan on the trans.

Valve cover gaskets (again, they all leak right?)

New door pins (driver side door sags, got greasable fittings for the drivers side)

Fuel Pump, ACDelco, the pump in my truck has had a LOUD whine the entire time I've owned it, its been that way for 14,000 miles, I fear the day it goes quiet... so I'll replace it!

Got some OffRoad Designs braided brake lines since its hard to trust 24 year old brake lines on a /long/ trip like this with a fully loaded truck and trailer.

Literally JUST paid 5vortec7 for a Big 3 Kit

Front crank seal is leaking a bit so, gonna replace that too...

Planning on have the local shop I've on stuff before to do the engine/trans mounts, oil/trans lines, valve cover gaskets, fuel pump, crank seal and distributor since I just don't have time these days to work on things myself.

I literally have $1,100 in parts so far just sitting here to go on the truck and I'm trying hard to make sure that what I do put on it is a good new OEM part or a part that will exceed the OEM part significantly. Longest trip I've taken was about 5-6 hr, about 300 miles in a day a year ago... going to be going from California to Florida... and back to California with a 19ft 5,500lbs travel trailer thats as aerodynamic as the broad side of a barn.
 

454cid

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...mildly worried being in California and not being able to point to a CARB number for the part... when I take my truck in its always gone over with a /fine/ tooth comb :/

Are they going to send a trained mouse into read a number? The distributor is basically buried on the 454.

Valve cover gaskets (again, they all leak right?)

Mine do now, but it probably took 200K miles before that happened. It could be the time, more than the miles, I suppose. I've been putting up with the oil leak for quite awhile. Tightening them down a bit help for a little while, and then they started leaking again. It's on my list of things to put off. I actually have another set of valve covers and two sets of gaskets. Maybe I'll get it done since I'd love to participate in the current engine bay/valve-cover thread.

Fuel Pump, ACDelco, the pump in my truck has had a LOUD whine the entire time I've owned it, its been that way for 14,000 miles, I fear the day it goes quiet... so I'll replace it!

I think it's pretty common for them to make some noise. The Denso pump I put in is pretty quiet, Though.
 

Xipher

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Are they going to send a trained mouse into read a number? The distributor is basically buried on the 454.



Mine do now, but it probably took 200K miles before that happened. It could be the time, more than the miles, I suppose. I've been putting up with the oil leak for quite awhile. Tightening them down a bit help for a little while, and then they started leaking again. It's on my list of things to put off. I actually have another set of valve covers and two sets of gaskets. Maybe I'll get it done since I'd love to participate in the current engine bay/valve-cover thread.



I think it's pretty common for them to make some noise. The Denso pump I put in is pretty quiet, Though.
Ha! I've watched them spend nearly 10 minutes with a mirror going over things to look behind and all over in the engine bay, for some reason techs here in CA seem to have it out for trucks with the 454 specifically, no idea why since from what I can tell its far and between to find any performance goodies to put on these late engines unless you want a big obvious supercharger... hell I'm nervous about the PCM hash checking they're doing since I programmed out VATS on my truck when that system decided to go insane.
 

smokymtn65

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Running a Speedmaster I like it. So far only been on last year less than 2k
 
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